RSM 130 Mods Advise

Discussion in 'Anything DIY Related' started by Arries, 27 Dec 2014.

  1. Arries

    Arries

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    Hey all you smart people..
    Ok so my mind has been going wild on me with this tank with regards to mods.
    Some of the mods i cant really find info on so i need some advise from one of the cleaver guys.

    To start with advise on The Sump and overflow..:whistling:

    1st. So when i bought the tank it was already drilled but its a freaken 15mm hole and cant see how its really gonna mean something..So will it be possible for me to make that hole bigger or should i maby drill a new hole and plumb that one for the return maby??And what size hole would be safe if i make it bigger..

    2nd.Will it be safe to maby strip the back compartments out and add a decent overflow..As the way it was done i cant see how max debris was caught..There is anyway nothing in the back compartments except for the flow pumps.Maby get some more work space from the tank..I'm anyway gonna strip the sump and build it over as its not very well designed to start with..

    So please any advise would be greatly appreciated..I'm loosing sleep over this tank as i don't want to start it up until all the mods are done..

    Thanx in advance guys and gals...:thumbup:
     
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  3. butcherman

    butcherman Moderator MASA Contributor

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    can easily make the existing hole bigger to 42mm or 52mm

    do you wanna strip out all the filtration or just modify it?
     
  4. Arries

    Arries Thread Starter

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    If its gonna be safe i would like to maby stip it all out..There is no skimmer or anything there anymore just the return/flow power heads..So those chambers actually serve no purpose anymore..Or if anyone maby has a different suggestion on what to do with the chambers..I dont want them collecting debris..Learned my lesson with the TL-450 and keeping those chambers clean...
     
  5. RiaanP

    RiaanP Moderator

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    check the position of your lights. With the back filtration stripped out, you might find that your rock stack is further to the back. And not directly under the lights. Might then be forced to modify the hood to add extra light towards the rear of the hood.
     
  6. Arries

    Arries Thread Starter

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    Ahhh was waiting to see if you are gonna see the thread @RiaanP....:thumbup:
    Yes I realise the lights will have to be modified and they will be changing to LED anyway in the near future...so I'm not to concerned about that...If I take out the chambers will that affect the strength of the back panel? I don't want that panel breaking on me..Or would you suggest leaving the chambers in..If I leave the chambers what would you suggest I do for best overflow...
     
    Last edited by a moderator: 26 Nov 2015
  7. RiaanP

    RiaanP Moderator

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    Will be stripping out the filtration system on my sons TL550 soon. It is a much shorter span but just a piece of plastic. The water pressure on the back pane is the same on the TL550 with or without the panel.

    With the RSM the filtration is normally also full of water. I believe it should be OK to remove the filtration chamber.

    Due to the TL550 hood sliding down half way the back, I'm planning a slimline overflow box, but not one that exits at the bottom of the tank. At the back, low down. Return is part of the overflow box. Need to do a Sketchup design in different colors to describe it better.
     
  8. Arries

    Arries Thread Starter

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    Hmmm I think I understand what you are saying..The hole I have now is about 1/4 from the top on the back panel..Thinking of using that for my return and maby drilling new one for the exit..The divider on the RSM is actually glass and not plastic like the TL-550...Will have to build overflow box if I strip the filtration out...would love to also make my return part of the overflow box...
     
  9. RiaanP

    RiaanP Moderator

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    this is what I have in mind for the TL550 overflow and return box.



    [​IMG]

    The blue front, is a single pane.
    The yellow is a little roof over the return to fore the water forward, instead of straight up. The sides on the return is 10mm higher so the outlet slot is 10mm high and in this design 100mm wide. Return fitting is a 30mm hole, overflow is a 50mm hole. The chamber is 20mm wide to allow easy fitting of bulkheads so no need to sand them down thinner or creating a thin space between bulkhead and front glass, restricting flow.


    Biggest advantage, you need no siphon break at all. Power out and no issues.

    Can add eggcrate or overflow comb to the overflow side to prevent fish going in. Actually that must be in place.
    Can add eggcrate
     
  10. Arries

    Arries Thread Starter

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    This is great...But I checked something now and I will not be able to remove the freakn filtration...Because of the powerbox at the back the front filtration panel is glass and one solid panel and the back panel of the tank is a single panel..So basically its like a added tank at the back..dammit.:m24:..any suggestions now @RiaanP...
    Adding some pics to show you..
    1st pic is the side with the powerbox cliped out..Can clearly see the 2 panels of glass..
    2nd pic is from the top..
    Now im freakn sad...

    20141228_102856.jpg

    2014-12-28 10.29.42.jpg
     
    Last edited by a moderator: 26 Nov 2015
  11. RiaanP

    RiaanP Moderator

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    there goes that mod idea.

    another tank maybe?
     
  12. Arries

    Arries Thread Starter

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    Nope only tank..will just have to make a plan that includes the filtration area...But thanx for trying to help..Greatly appreciate it. :thumbup:
     
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