Ro Di troubleshooting

Rabbid dawg

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My 1 year old Ro maching is now producing water with a tds reading of 12. with a before reading of 272. How do I know what filters to replace?
Its just got a pre filter ,charcoal, membrane and then Di resin.
 

Newbiejb

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Test your inlet water before valve then test each stage water to determine which one needs to be replaced. The one dropping tds the least needs replacing.
 

viper357

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Pre-filters should generally be changed every 6 to 9 months (depending on how much sediment is in your water and how high your incoming TDS is). One of the purposes of the pre-filters is to protect the very expensive membrane, so it makes sense to change them regularly as it saves you money in the long run. DI Resin also exhausts quickly, if you have the colour changing resin then it is easy to see when it needs to be replaced. So a good plan is to replace Carbon and Sediment filters every 6 to 9 months to ensure your keep your membrane and water in tip top condition. DI Resin can be replaced more often, just watch as your TDS rises to about 4 or 5 then replace DI resin and it should come back down to 0.
 
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RiaanP

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the pre filters are cheap.
Just replace them as well.

Most likely it is anyway the membrane filter that needs to be replaced.
 

RiaanP

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Does your unit have a flush valve on it? Or auto flush?
 

Rabbid dawg

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I believe its auto flush as its permanently bleeding water from the membrane filter. I have purchased a charcoal filter. And some Di resin. The new one it says its good for 2500 gallons. That's 10000l. But we do have serious chloramines in Pta water. So what would the symptoms of Di depletion be?
 

RiaanP

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Does it have a little quarter turn valve on the pipes exiting the membrane filter. Then its manual and needs to be flushed at times. Running with it open for a couple of minutes.
 

RiaanP

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something like this


Manual flush
 

Rabbid dawg

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It looks like that yes. But it can't be shut off completely. It bleeds water permanently.at least three quarters of the water that passes through the machine. Is it still manual?
 

RiaanP

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You got 2 outlets. One directly from this tap, the other pipe would be your clean RO water. The water from this tap would constantly run out, faster than the clean RO water.
BUT
when you open up this tap, the water would shoot out of here. The clean water flow should almost stop to a very slow drip, if it even drips. While this is open and shooting out the water, that is when you flush the membrane. You need to do this actually every time you use the unit for a minute. If you never done it, I would let it run for 10 to 15 minutes. Use the waste to water your garden, or fill up your pool.
 
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RiaanP

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Did you test your RO when you started up the unit? Or after at least 5 minutes? The test results would be different. First bit of water coming out from system on your clean line would always have a high TDS reading. After a couple of minutes it drops down.

I got an inline TDS unit. Always displays what goes out. Its sensor is on the outlet of the RODI unit. When I start the flow, the TDS jumps up to 66 or higher. It comes down rather quickly and after about a minute mine displays 0.

That's why its suggested to throw away the first liter or 2 water from the clean line.
 

Rabbid dawg

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Mine is inline too. The readings were talen at the end of the filling. How will I know if it is the membrane or the Di resin is depleted? Besides taking the unit appart. I guess what Im trying to ask is. Does Di resin drop tds?
 

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