Rio 300 marine conversion

Joined
28 Oct 2015
Posts
395
Reaction score
66
Location
Potchefstroom
So I decided... Or rather got a Juwel Rio 300 at a steal price.

Problem was getting it to go marine.. Not doing a HOB overflow....

Solution... DIY skinny overflow based on RS principle and beananimal build.

So got the acrylic laser cut and looks good so far...

Now I just need to drill the tank back... stressing like hell
 
Joined
28 Oct 2015
Posts
395
Reaction score
66
Location
Potchefstroom
Magma of Tensol. Acrylic weld. Het ge-wet test en geen lekke nie. Smelt letterlik die twee sheets aan mekaar vas. Kan dit net op groot maat koop en nie in hardware shops nie. Ongelukkig. Het by fabriserings laboratorium gekry by NWU
 
Joined
28 Oct 2015
Posts
395
Reaction score
66
Location
Potchefstroom
uploadfromtaptalk1451560497530.jpg
uploadfromtaptalk1451560513566.jpg
uploadfromtaptalk1451560521190.jpg


Great success. Now just busy removing internal filter and cutting ballast screws to lentgh then the wet test... But that will only happen next year....
 
Joined
28 Oct 2015
Posts
395
Reaction score
66
Location
Potchefstroom
uploadfromtaptalk1451662345589.jpg
cabinet reinforced and sump added.

Now just need to find a piece to cover middle pane. Deciding if I want black like the rest or something else... Any thoughts?
 

RiaanP

Moderator
Joined
11 Aug 2008
Posts
25,926
Reaction score
2,090
Location
Centurion
Whatever you put in the middle, make it removable.
You will thank me later.
 
Joined
28 Oct 2015
Posts
395
Reaction score
66
Location
Potchefstroom


Plumbing done and dusted. Split the two support legs and added swivel brackets behind centre cover.

Tomorrow night will be the wet test and rinse out session after stripping the last of the stock silicon off the side wall where filter was attached.
 

RiaanP

Moderator
Joined
11 Aug 2008
Posts
25,926
Reaction score
2,090
Location
Centurion
The ball valve on the main down pipe should be moved lower down. As low as possible. The outlet part on that pipe should be just under water. Else the water in the pipe cannot force the air bubbles out. Also need to securely fasten the main pipe to the cabinet. At least the main, the other 2 you can fasten or let it be. The principle behind this design is that this pipe is full of water with no bubbles inside. So the pipe will be a lot heavier than the other 2 pipes. Having it so high and the pipe will take a lot longer to get the bubbles out after restarting the return pump.

The secondary outlet pipe should be much deeper in the sump. This helps the main pipe to force the bubbles out. Ballvalve should be set so that less than 20% water goes down the secondary. Here the water should run down the sides of the pipe making no noise instead of free falling. 20% and less flow and the water would stay on the sides.

The emergency should end above the water line in the sump. Especially in your design where you cannot see into the box from the front of the tank. Rather let it make a noise down below, alerting you to the fact that something is wrong.

Did you use those bulkheads that you find at Builders warehouse or Chamberlains. If yes, you will see that their design is not great for our purpose. The bulkhead goes narrower inside then open up again. On main outlet not an issue as the complete pipe should be full of water. On the secondary it mess up with the idea of getting the water to cling to the insides of the pipe, free falling from the bulkhead down to your bend much lower down. This will create a noise nullifying your design. Take a piece of that white netting you used in the sump and roll it up. And push it down the secondary. The roll should be long enough to go down all the way to the bend. This will provide the water a path to cling on to instead of free falling. No need to do this on the other pipes.

I got the exact same overflow design. Check out from post 67, I had all these issues. And I had to redo the pipes at the end.
RiaanP Mermaid tank
 
Joined
28 Oct 2015
Posts
395
Reaction score
66
Location
Potchefstroom
The ball valve on the main down pipe should be moved lower down. As low as possible. The outlet part on that pipe should be just under water. Else the water in the pipe cannot force the air bubbles out. Also need to securely fasten the main pipe to the cabinet. At least the main, the other 2 you can fasten or let it be. The principle behind this design is that this pipe is full of water with no bubbles inside. So the pipe will be a lot heavier than the other 2 pipes. Having it so high and the pipe will take a lot longer to get the bubbles out after restarting the return pump.

The secondary outlet pipe should be much deeper in the sump. This helps the main pipe to force the bubbles out. Ballvalve should be set so that less than 20% water goes down the secondary. Here the water should run down the sides of the pipe making no noise instead of free falling. 20% and less flow and the water would stay on the sides.

The emergency should end above the water line in the sump. Especially in your design where you cannot see into the box from the front of the tank. Rather let it make a noise down below, alerting you to the fact that something is wrong.

Did you use those bulkheads that you find at Builders warehouse or Chamberlains. If yes, you will see that their design is not great for our purpose. The bulkhead goes narrower inside then open up again. On main outlet not an issue as the complete pipe should be full of water. On the secondary it mess up with the idea of getting the water to cling to the insides of the pipe, free falling from the bulkhead down to your bend much lower down. This will create a noise nullifying your design. Take a piece of that white netting you used in the sump and roll it up. And push it down the secondary. The roll should be long enough to go down all the way to the bend. This will provide the water a path to cling on to instead of free falling. No need to do this on the other pipes.

I got the exact same overflow design. Check out from post 67, I had all these issues. And I had to redo the pipes at the end.
RiaanP Mermaid tank
Thanks
Sal gaan loer vanaand as ek tuis is.
Die main drain is net onder water die secondary ook en derde een bo water vlak
 
Joined
28 Oct 2015
Posts
395
Reaction score
66
Location
Potchefstroom
After 2 weeks I get time to post a few photos! Surprised as to my readings so far.

Ammonia is reading 0 ppm
Nitrites are reading 0 ppm
Nitrates are in between 5 and 10 ppm....

Can't think that my cycle is finished?

Have 20kg live sand in out of total 40kg and about 50kg of live rock from matured tank.


Any thoughts?
 

Top