Red/Brown Algae

Discussion in 'Nuisance Algae' started by HoboHoppy, 3 May 2014.

  1. HoboHoppy

    HoboHoppy

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    Hi Guys

    I have had some Reddish Brown algae forming on my rocks. I am not sure if its a bad thing or not I have attached some photos.

    My water parameters are as follows.

    Ph 8.2
    KH 5
    Nitrate 5
    Nitrite 0
    Amonia 0
    MG 1260
    Ca 450

    My Tank has been running now for 6 weeks about 350lt tank with 45 kgs live rock.

    algae 1.jpg

    algae 2.jpg

    algae 3.jpg
     
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  3. TheresaC

    TheresaC

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    What is your po4 reading?
     
  4. HoboHoppy

    HoboHoppy Thread Starter

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    I dont have a test kit for that must go buy one and check.
     
  5. TheresaC

    TheresaC

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    For sure. I had the same problem a while back. High po4 readings cause algae growth. I had a high reading of phospates and bought a reactor and phosgauard po4 remover. It sorted out the problem in a few weeks time.

    I now run carbon in the reactor for three weeks and phosguard (seachem) for three weeks as well. Works like a charm for me. Almost no algae growth. You should get your po4 to 0 or as close to that as possible.
     
  6. TheresaC

    TheresaC

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    Just to be clear I make 3 week turns in running carbon and phosguard thus 3 weeks of carbon. I then clean the reactor and add phosguard for three weeks. I basically make turns with carbon and phosguard and I don't use them together at the same time.

    It works for me but I'm sure some of the more experienced reefers can give you more info and help. They helped me when I had the same problem.
     
  7. DerekL

    DerekL

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    They could just be diatoms. They almost look like a rust colour? To me these sound like diatom that feed off of silicates. Did you add new sand when you set up this tank? If they are diatoms once the feed on all silicates they will go away. As for a reactor I run a dual media reactor I run rowaphos in the first on then carbon in the second one 24/7. I personnaly change the rowaphos once a month and the carbon I change every 2 to 3 weeks. Here is a picture of a bad diatom break out is this what yours looks like?

    image.jpg
     
    Last edited: 3 May 2014
  8. D3m0n369

    D3m0n369

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    Yup that looks like my tank now. Lol. Most of my diatoms on the substrate has dissappeared, but the ones on the rocks are still there. Also battling a nitrate problem. Getting orca biocubes soon. Hope that works.
     
  9. DerekL

    DerekL

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    The diatoms will subside on there own once all the silicates have been used up by the diatoms. My tank 10 months old now and I have an engineering goby who is constantly moving my sandbed so even now I still get minor diatom breakouts when he moves new areas of sand. I guess I didn't rinse the sand as well as I thought. Diatoms are not nitrate fuelled but if you have high nitrates definately get them under control. I took just started Orca Nitra guard bio cubes as I was running bio pellets and after 6 months seen no change. My nitrates at there highest where only 12 ppm but I want a sps dominant tank so I want them as low as can be. Good luck your tank will start to look better soon.
     
  10. D3m0n369

    D3m0n369

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    @DerekL let me know how the orca bio cubes work for you. I should get mine next week. How do you use it in your tank? The bomb method?
     
    Last edited by a moderator: 26 Nov 2015
  11. Nabzo

    Nabzo

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    Isn't the brown and green algae part of the cycle ? I just started my tank and it's been a week and I see green algae hair like on my live rck,This is normal right ? Is this part of the cycle ? Or am I missing something
     
  12. D3m0n369

    D3m0n369

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    You are right. It is part of your cycle. The green algea should dissappear by the end if your cycle.
     
  13. Nabzo

    Nabzo

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    Thought as much It's part of the cycle
     
  14. DerekL

    DerekL

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    I am using the Nitra Guard bio cubes the bomb method and my nitrates are on there way down. Yes diatoms are a part I new tank forsure now if you have green hair algae starting I would employ a phosphate remover now. I have had started gfo from day one I now use the brand name rowaphos no it doesn't work any better then when I was buying bulk amount of gfo online just a local store here sells it and I actually pay less for rowaphos then I did when I have buying larger amount of gfo online. The green hair algae could be being fuelled from phosphates leaking back out of live rock if you had bought it from someone who was getting out of the hobby who had phosphate issues. My brother is going thought that problem right now. So in my opinion I would set up a reactor with a phosphate remover as soon as possible cause green hair algae could end up pretty bad like my brothers tank where all of his live rock look hairy. And now he has an uphill battle to get it under control. Algae feed on phosphate and nitrates so if you have algae growth yet your phosphates are reading low it doesn't nessasaily mean it is it's just the algae is consuming it and you test kit just isn't going to get a proper reading. It like in my tank now I am getting phosphate readings of under .03ppm po4 on my Red Sea and salifert kits and with my Hanna photometer style I am getting 0ppm. I do have a bit of algae growth so I believe that my Red Sea and salifert kits are closer to real numbers.
     
  15. HoboHoppy

    HoboHoppy Thread Starter

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    Thanks guys going to see my pet shop and see what reactor I can get. Its def Rust colour and making my tank look ugly.
     
  16. HoboHoppy

    HoboHoppy Thread Starter

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    So I just googled a price on a Phosphate reactor. Over 2k. This is crazy surely if the tank needed a phosphate reactor the guy who supplied and built my tank would have quoted on it.

    I went through all my tank quotes and not one mentioned a reactor. Some of you are saying that its natural and all part of the cycle. Does that mean it will disappear?

    Also what is the maximum time I should leave my lights on in a day?
     
  17. HoboHoppy

    HoboHoppy Thread Starter

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    That is very similar to what it looks like. Do you believe it will clear up on its own?
     
  18. HoboHoppy

    HoboHoppy Thread Starter

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    Derek do these cubes go in the sump?
     
  19. D3m0n369

    D3m0n369

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    All you need is an phosban reactor 150. Jungle aquatics sels them for less than R1200 without a pump. Speak to @bryan and he will hook you up. Yes the cubes go into the sump. They come with its own bag so there is really no need for a reactor for the cubes. According to the guys here the bomb method is the easiest way to do it. All you need for this method is a small air pump, airline tubing and a big airstone.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: 26 Nov 2015
  20. HoboHoppy

    HoboHoppy Thread Starter

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    I have a 3 part sump already the water returns to the first part with the protein skimmer then flows over some bio balls then into an area with ceramic rings. However there are no air stones or air pumps on my system. How does the air bubbles assist?
     
  21. D3m0n369

    D3m0n369

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    This is how the bomb method works. You place the cubes in the bag. Attach the airstone and tubing to the airpump. Insert the airstone into the bag and place it near the bottom of the bag. Close the top of the bag around the airline tube. If you follow me you will see where the " bomb" name comes from. This bomb needs to be placed as close to the skimmer as possible. In your case it should be placed in the first compartment of the sump. The reason for the airstone is that these cubes need to tumble to work more efficiently. There is a thread up here on MASA, Orca nitra guard bio cubes discussion. If you need more technical information read that thread or speak to @dallasg. He was the one testing the cubes on that thread. Hope this helps.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: 26 Nov 2015
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