Radion Fan Replacement

RiaanP

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After 18 months my Radion fans started to pack up. Lost 3 fans from 4 units in a matter of 4 days. Not sure how that works, but they all just decided together: "Lets go on strike"

Only thing you notice is that the lights flicker, then on closer inspection you see the fan is standing still. Sometimes the light actually switched off and later on restarted.

Asking for a quote on fan replacements from LFS and I got the nice figure of R820 per fan. Ouch.

Opened up a unit, removed the fan. Got the fan code and I googled that.
this is the fan as used by Radion
3106KL-04W-B50-B00 - DC Axial Fans - NMB Technologies Corporation

Checked out RC components and I got a very similar fan for R103.40 each
http://za.rs-online.com/web/p/products/541-4993/?origin=PSF_438368|QVTN-LL

The specs are almost identical, although the replacement fans noise level is at 20dB instead of 34dB. Almost same airflow, both with ball bearings.
 
Picture guide.

Opening the unit, star screws in each corner, plus another 4 screws securing fan cover.
01Start.JPG


Cover removed. There is a fine gasket, remove it carefully
02coverremoved.JPG


remove the sides with a 2.5mm allen key. 2 screws a side
03sidesremoved.JPG


remove the PC board with a 2mm allen key, 2 screws
04PCboardremoval.JPG

remove the 3 visible screws holding the top plate. One side got plastic clips holding the power cable coming into the unit.
05topplateremoval.JPG


Lift out the PC board VERY carefully. It got a stupid ribbon cable that goes to the touch sensors on the top plate. Take hold of the ribbon cable and pull it out carefully. The ribbon just slides into the connector block
06controlribbon.JPG


Then you can remove the last screw holding the top plate. And lift the body off the top plate.
07topplateremoved.JPG


The 4 inner screws visible above, is the screws holding the fan in place. Remove them.
08fanremoved.JPG

The fan is glued in place. Just break it off, its not that strong.
09fanwithitswires.JPG


Carefully plug out the fan cable. The cable got inside that heat shrink part a capacitor and a coil. I think the purpose is to prevent interference back to the board.
07topplateremoved.JPG
 
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Cut the wires between that heat shield and the old fan. Leave enough space to be able to do the new connection.
10cutthewires.JPG


First, put on small heat shrink isolation on the wires, slide them to the fan side so that they are out of the way. Then solder the wires back together.
11solderonnewfan.JPG


Slide heat shrink over but do not shrink it yet.

Test the unit first. Plug the fan cable connector back in. And power up the unit to ensure that the fan is running. I used food tub lids as temporary covers to block the light so that I could actually see what is going on.
12testing.JPG


Then heat shrink those isolation.

Put the top plate back underneath and insert that ribbon cable through the body. Then push it gently back into the connection.
13plugribbonbackin.JPG


Secure the screws holding the top plate, starting with the one under the PC board
Push the excess fan wires under the connector on the left and secure all the other screws holding the top plate
14securetopplate.JPG


Refit the ends, making sure that the incoming wires are tucked in under the TIR lens. The older lens is easier, it sits under the reflector.
15wiresplacement.JPG


Refit the gasket, unit cover and fan cover
16fancover.JPG


Retest, again with the food lids in place
17finaltest.JPG


I'm blind...
18Imblind.JPG
 
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Yes great pictorial and very well done Riaan. Just a heads up from years of experience of building many different types of light fittings. The fans you mentioned from RC components, ACDC components, Communica etc are not as durable under the heat and humid conditions above an aquarium. I would recommend the use of Papst fans as a replacement as IMO they outlast the ones from said companies.


"7. Protection against environmental
influences​
Some applications place particular demands on the
fans' resistance to ambient influences, such as
dust, moisture, water and salt. ebm-papst offer​
solutions for adapting fans to these ambient conditions"


you can buy them from here.

http://www.iselectronics.co.za/
 
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Awesome Riaan! Thanks for sharing!!! Good to know it is indeed user replaceable!
R820 is totally absurd!!!
 
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Thanks for the heads up Nemos Janitor
Looking at ebmpapst own website, they do not have a 80 x 80 x 15 fan,
Axial fans made by ebm-papst convince with high air performance and moderate pressure build-up


Anyway
I got the Radions about 18months ago. All secondhand and they did a few months duty already for previous owner. They are all about 2 years old. If they new fans last at least a year, then I'm still OK with that. Still a bargain.

The time to replace the fan is under 30 minutes. Taking your time. With exception to that ribbon cable, the job is not complex at all.
 
Hi Riaan,

I came her (first time in months!) to try and get some help with my Radion going off, flashing Red, coming back on etc. I also noticed the fan didn't turn, and I remember that they have this issue. The first thread I saw was yours. Thanks for explaining everything!
 
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Pleasure @abgg118

its a nice DIY. About 30 minutes per unit.

If they flash that red, rather unplug the unit.
 
Glad it helped at least one other reefer.
 
@RiaanP did you glue the fan back in place. All three of my radion fans are dead. This a fantastic write up. You just saved me a bucket load !
 
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No glue.
not really needed.
 
I have just ordered my fans :)
@RiaanP thank you for this post I am sure it will help many a radion user!
 
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