R O units

Discussion in 'Beginner Discussions' started by Wetty, 29 Oct 2008.

  1. Wetty

    Wetty Rockford Fosgate Fish

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    U get the usual RO units at most LFS.... 2 stage on average. How do these work...and wot exactly to they do to the water?

    Reason i ask is that iv found a variety of RO units at Boksburg fleamarket selling from single stage to 8 stage at very reasonable prices.
     
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  3. christiaan

    christiaan

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    Dude for reefkeeping theres only one RO guy to speak to - WATERBOY!
    Cool guy from durbs, sells goreat quality stuff at good price called the Waterboy RO units

    RO Reverse Osmosis - water is forced at pressure thru a membrane that lets only h2o tru - ie very very clean, the "stages" before and after just help remove sediment etc - Mine has a 1 micron sediment filter then a carbon stage then the membrane and lastly a resin that deionizes the water - works extremely well
     
  4. Alan

    Alan Admin MASA Contributor

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    There are plenty different types out there but beware the quality, the 2 i would recommend is the Waterboy and the Deltec, both good units at good prices.
     
  5. Tobes

    Tobes Retired Moderator

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    Yeah, :thumbup: for Waterboy. Got mine(also a 4 stage) nearly a year and still get a TDS reading of 0 ;)
     
  6. martin

    martin Reef Adict

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    Yip Waterboy is the only route I would go. Those "cheapies" cant take pressure and burst and they leak at the seals. You would prob also sukkel to get the right micron filters and media in some of the sizes.
     
  7. amalick

    amalick

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  8. viper357

    viper357 Admin MASA Contributor

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    That unit is designed to make drinking water, it will probably work ok but it doesn't contain DI resin which is what aids in bringing the TDS down to 0. Also not sure what make of membrane it uses, personally I will only use filmtech membranes.
     
  9. Reef Maniac

    Reef Maniac MASA Contributor

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    Agreed - insist on Filmtech membranes :thumbup:

    As far as I'm concerned, you can use any make/brand of filter housing - they all work the same. what's important is the following:
    • Brand of membrane inside the RO filter
    • Gallon per day (GPD) rating of the membrane. The "standard" is 50 GPD, but many of the cheap units only have a 24 GPd membrane (not too serious for the long-term, though, as the 50 GPD fits into the same housing)
    • Number of pre-filters (those cannisters filters hanging below the actual membrane. IMHO you want at least 3 pre-filters, and 4 would be even better if you have really dirty water.
    • Very important - make sure that you only use a carbon block and/or granular carbon (GAC) in the pre-filter, DONT use the generally supplied KDF pre-filter, as it contains a mixture of copper and zinc and will increase the copper content in the tank over the long term.
    It is usually a good idea to also add a pressure booster pump to the unit if possible - it aids in improving the filtration quality if/when the municipal water pressure drops (as is happening more regularly these days...)

    Hennie
     
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