Quieting my over-flow system

Discussion in 'General Discussions and Advice' started by ryana, 28 Nov 2013.

  1. ryana

    ryana

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    Hi Guys

    I have a new cube tank 60x60x60cm with an overflow weir box down to my sump below. (IE: Tank has a 50mm hole drilled in the bottom glass and its plumbed down to the sump)
    How do I quiet the sound of water gushing over the weir and down the pipe to the sump?
    I've tried putting some egg crate over the down pipe (to prevent bio balls getting stuck) and throwing in some bio-balls to help displace the water as it funnels down but this has only helped a little and I'm not sure if that is a good idea in terms of harbouring bad bacteria.
    The tank is in my dining room and sounds like a mini Niagra Falls which is not impressing my wife! :(

    Any suggestions or advice please?

    Thanks
    Ryan :)
     
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  3. Rossreefer

    Rossreefer

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    Make a Duro, ;)

    images.jpg
     
  4. ryana

    ryana Thread Starter

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    I saw a video on you tube about this Duro;
    Are you using it or has anyone tried it? Does it work?
    Look like I'll have to try building one from different plumbing joints and parts....
     
  5. Rossreefer

    Rossreefer

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    Yes I am using 2 on my tank.

    Parts are available from most hardware, builders warehouse in the irrigation section
     
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  6. ryana

    ryana Thread Starter

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    Thanks man, appreciate it. I'll have to give it a try. :thumbup:
     
  7. Jt143

    Jt143

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    I have just built one of these for my 60x60 cube

    And it works amazingly

    I will try post pics later
     
  8. ryana

    ryana Thread Starter

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    Thanks Jt...that will be highly appreciated!! :)
     
  9. RiaanP

    RiaanP Moderator

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  10. ryana

    ryana Thread Starter

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    Thanks Riaan, will pop past Builders this weekend for sure to see if they have them in stock! :)
     
  11. ryana

    ryana Thread Starter

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    If you building a Durso, how long does the pipe that connects to the bulkhead have to be?
     
  12. mandarinman

    mandarinman

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    Chat to riaanp by the way. He has a phenomenal knowledge in this area
     
  13. pkc

    pkc

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    Do you have pic or two of this area?
    It may be as simple as using some grey water flex pipe and bend it to stop any noise.
    Water makes noise if it falls a distance or is entering varied sized areas, not if it flows firstly
    Even zig zagging with bends in your pipe will silence things a great deal.
     
    Last edited: 28 Nov 2013
  14. ryana

    ryana Thread Starter

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    Here is a pic of the over flow...
    The box is about 10x10cm and the pipe is 50mm in diameter

    overflow box.jpg
     
    Last edited: 28 Nov 2013
  15. nim

    nim

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    i had the same problem. the 50mm hole is taking to much water to quickly to the sump. i installed a ballvalve to restrict the flow and voilla!!
     
  16. ryana

    ryana Thread Starter

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    I thought about the ball valve option but i'm just concerned that limiting/slowing the flow will create other issues.
     
  17. nim

    nim

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    your return pump cant handle that much flow back into the tank anyway, so i don't think that would be an issue
     
  18. Qaiser

    Qaiser

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    I would take a blade and remove the box and create an overflow like rossreefer suggested. It will still be noisy though depending on the amount of bends you have. Mine became very soft when I put a 90 on to bring the pipe forward towards the front of then sump then a 90 taking it down. This basically breaks the fall and allows the air to escape
     
  19. RiaanP

    RiaanP Moderator

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    The standard Durso design will not fit into that overflow, you simply do not have space.

    The soil vent valve is 73mm across, and that could just make it.

    Do not glue the standpipe at the bottom of the box to the bulkhead / connector. Once a month or when needed you need to pull the pipe out so that the flush will remove settlement at the bottom, So you need a standpipe long enough so that the valve is just under the overflow height. Else you will struggle to get your hand in there to pull it out.

    If you cannot get that exact valve, they do have one that is glued already to a 110mm PVC end cap. Cut it off and dremmel it looses. Sand it smooth and you got the same thing.

    Next picture you need to post is what does the pipe work looks like under the tank.
     
  20. RiaanP

    RiaanP Moderator

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    Ballvalve will and do quite things down. But a gatevalve is better than a ballvalve. A lot more expensive, but you can set it a lot easier than a sticky ballvalve.

    Anyway, I had a blue green Chromis blocking a ballvalve once. ALMOST flooded the display, ATU drained the RO chamber. Nope, I do not like restricting return lines. Just my preference.
     
  21. ryana

    ryana Thread Starter

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    Hi Riaan,I lost you in your last explanation on the valve :blush:
    I've attached 2 pics of the pipe work from the tank above and into the sump below. I've just filled it up 2 days ago so everything is not quite set up properly. I'm still tweaking and testing a few things before i put the skimmer and media reactor in and move the heater.
    The piping is plumbed in so that's not changing much except for the downpipe in the sump(touching the fliter pads; that can be shortened)

    IMG-20131128-WA0005.jpg

    IMG-20131128-WA0004.jpg
     
    Last edited: 28 Nov 2013
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