Quarantine tank

Discussion in 'General Discussions and Advice' started by raytone, 6 Oct 2011.

  1. raytone

    raytone Raytone

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    What equipment do you need for a quarantine tank, pumps and so on. What can i use if a fish got white spot, but there is corals in the tank?
     
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  3. belindamotion

    belindamotion Google Master

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  4. raytone

    raytone Thread Starter Raytone

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    Thanks belinda but i need to know if i buy fish and want to quarantine it to check for any diseases and so on. what equipment must i get?
     
  5. pXius

    pXius

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    Hey ray, in all honesty if your serious about quarantine you need a full running system so thats:

    Heater
    Return
    Flow Pumps
    SKIMMER
    Lights.

    I would avoid a substrate though and just go bare bottom.

    Remember to make quarantine truly effective the fish would have to live there for quite awhile. Not just a week or 2.
     
  6. RiaanP

    RiaanP Moderator

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    ok, depends on if you go bucket and quarantine tank, or just quarantine tank.

    Bucket method.

    • 2 * buckets, flat type, not drums as the surface are is smaller
    • 2 * 50 to 100w heaters
    • 2 * 300L/h little return pumps
    • 1 air pump, with two airline hoses and 2 air stones.
    Obviously you use one set per cycle, other set is outside in the sun drying out.

    then for QT tank.

    • any tank, Daro 90L standard from any pet shop is OK
    • Small powerhead 1200L/h
    • 100-150W heater
    • Hang on skimmer or small TS1 is a bonus.
    If you can drill the tank and use another 90, or 60 L tank as a sump, the better. Then you would need extra return pump. Must still surface skim the top tank. Work that into your design.

    If you do not drill the tank, you HAVE to put in one divider, and have the water fall over to that chamber.
    Reason: the gunk will collect at the surface if you do not skim this tank. If you have a TS1 skimmer, this chamber must then be 150mm wide. Put the return pump in here with short flexible tube all the way to the other side of the tank.

    Bonus Features.

    • If you have an extra Auto Top Up unit, use it. No problem in pulling RO from same container as your main display.
    • Extra Net, for QT system, do not use that net in your main system.
    • Extra light fitting, so that you can QT corals as well.
    • Eggcrate, to put over the tank. It is a small area, and you do not want your new healthy fish go tile surfing.
    • Thermostat. for obvious reasons.
    If your QT system stands in the garage, its actually better. Less change to cross contaminate.
    Winter time and the garage is to cold, put a blanket around the tank. Would be surprise in how much that helps to keep the temp up. Just ensure some way of the tank to still be able to breath, do not cover the surface area.
     
  7. RiaanP

    RiaanP Moderator

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    Remember, the QT system MUST run as a full blown system.
    Correct usage forces you to be able to buy new fish only every 3rd month. And that is good. That force you to plan what you want, and when.

    Want to quarantine certain fish like Mandarin and sand sifting gobies. Not easy. But can be done, Add sand to empty system 2 or 3 weeks before getting the gobies. Can even use some substrate that got live in it from your display.

    Water changes, just as important. I do drain water from my QT system. Refill from my main display. Then add the new salt water to the main system. So that ensures that the water parameters for QT system is close enough to main system.
     
  8. pXius

    pXius

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    I have actually never thought about that... :whistling:
     
  9. raytone

    raytone Thread Starter Raytone

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    Thanks for all your help. I think a quarantine tank is the safest way to do things. Where can i buy a secondhand refractor meter? Budget is tight
     
  10. RiaanP

    RiaanP Moderator

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    in the for sale forum
    There is one now. As far as I can remember.
     
  11. mariusmeyer

    mariusmeyer

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    Unless you quarantining huge fish or many at the same time, which is also not ideal, you dont need a big tank. A 90L (3ft tank is way overkill and just a waste of water if you ask me.

    For small fish a 1ft tank is fine. Why have a 3ft tank as quarantine if you want to keep a goby or a clown in it? For larger fish such as an angel or tangs (obviously not a 30cm fish) a 2ft tank is more than enough. Remember, the fish is not going to be in there for the rest of its life.

    Equipment wise is also not that much. A heater, airstone and air driven filter will be fine. Why do you want a sump on a quarantine tank? You just give the disease/ bacteria more places to hide/ collect in and just waste more precious salt water.

    And you want to do frequent large water changes. The idea is to get rid of the infected/contaminated water, so the smaller the tank the less water you waste. If you only do fish quarantine then a light is not needed. Flow pumps are also not needed for fish. the airstone/fileter will circulate enough water.
     
  12. RiaanP

    RiaanP Moderator

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    If you main display is 500L, then a 10% water change is more than 50% on your 90L quarantine tank. Not a waste of water for me.

    2ft tank is OK for smaller fish. Just take into account that the fish have to be happy for at least 6 weeks. Any outbreak, and you add another 6 weeks to the process.
     
  13. mitchel

    mitchel

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    I set a 4 foot tank up with a cascade 700 canister filter for a powder blue tang.i first put bio ball in the canister filter and ran it in my sump of my DT tank for two month.i then put it on the 4 foot tank with 10kg of bio rock,got the power blue and used cupramine for white spot.i also used microbacter7.after 4 weeks the power blue had no white spot,eating well so i put him in the DT.he has a little white spot but he is doing well eating well and no fighting with the reagl,naso,sailfin
     
  14. belindamotion

    belindamotion Google Master

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