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I see there are some nice stikies on here about sump design, overflows etc, all which are very helpful, and has answered most of my questions.
But, is there nothing about plumbing? What diameter to use, how to arrange, what return pump would be sufficient for X amount of tank liters etc?
 
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what size tank are you busy with there Juan, I think the reason why there is no plumbing tutorial as such is because of the vast amount of variables of tank size, return pump size, dsb size, algae scrubber, uv-filter etc etc and the list may go on.

Best bet is to explain what you have or intend to incorporate and we can/could advise accordingly.
 
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I understand that the options are endless.
I don't really want to say what I'm busy with until I actually have the tank at home, so hopefully this will be before the weekend.
The tank I'm looking at is a 4ft and roughly 400l with sump.
Would a 3000l/h return pump be sufficient?
 
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There are so many different ways of doing it and it mainly depends on how the system will be setup and what type of equipment will be used. The only general rule of thumb on larger tanks > 500L is to use 50mm for the overflow. return can be 25mm or 32mm but that also depends on the pump that will be used and how the plumbin will attach to the pump.
 

RiaanP

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I use only 50mm pipes.

OK, the joints would be more expensive, but they are available everywhere.
 
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Let's say the system is a standard 3ft and there will be a sump which is a standard 2ft.

I realise there are many variables in place, but if possible to suggest what size of piping to use? Would 50mm be too big seeing as it is a very small setup?

If yes, any further suggestions would be much appreciated in terms of sizing for the pipe, and if outflow/inflow should be different sizes?

Many thanks
 

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@Darren H
If you do use a ballvalve to silence the downflow, then 50mm can work.

I got 50mm pipes on my quarantine tank, 1 standard 90L Daro tank. But because the tank is in the fish room I do not care if it makes a noise.
 
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@RiaanP
So 50mm is noisier than 32mm?
Also, do you use a ball valve for the return pipe as well as the overflow pipe?
 
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RiaanP

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If water falls down a pipe, it will tend to cling to the sides, if the flow is less than 40%. Above that and the water will not cling to the sides and be more noisy. 90 degree elbows on the downpipe will create a lot of splatter as well inside the pipe as the water hits the bend.

The concept behind Bean animal overflow, using 3 downpipes. Is that number 1 is controlled with ballvalve to be under full siphon. No air gets trapped or should go down that pipe. Pipe 2. Takes just that little bit of flow. so that the extremely difficult fine settling on pipe 1 ballvalve is not that important. do not need pipe 2, but then the ballvalve setting is crucial and as well as difficult. Pipe 3 is an emergency overflow. Not really needed. As pipe 2 was never used above 20% anyway. Just an extra fail safe.

Problem with some tank connectors or bulkheads we use, is that it actually reduces the inner diameter of the flow. And then increases again. That will move the water away from the pipe itself and cause free falling water inside the downpipe. Especially tank connectors as found at building supplies swimming pool sections.

These connectors are better.
 
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Ok, so seems I don't have to worry about noisy pipes. The outlet and inlets are both at the bottom of the tank, so it will fall straight into the sump
 
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The overflow will be noisy unless you throttle it back. The water falling into the overflow will make a big noise as well as the water falling into the sump. It is hard to say if the pipes will be noisy since that all depends on the location of the sump relative to the holes of the overflow and how you design your piping.
 
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@RiaanP
Those connectors you posted, would I just silicone that onto the base of the tank? Because there would be no way to put the nut on the inside of the overflow
 
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@RiaanP
Those connectors you posted, would I just silicone that onto the base of the tank? Because there would be no way to put the nut on the inside of the overflow
You put the tank connector through a separate piece of glass and then silicone the glass to the tank over the hole in the base of the tank.

If you are not sure you can come have a look at how it gets done on my tank.
 
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RiaanP

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Those connectors you posted, would I just silicone that onto the base of the tank? Because there would be no way to put the nut on the inside of the overflow

Just silicone it to the outside is looking for trouble. It will one day fall off.
Follow mariusmeyer advice.
 

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Would something like this not work better in my application?
yes it can on corner box overflow. But on the inside you will not be able to fit a durso standpipe. These works well on skinny overflows.
 
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yes it can on corner box overflow. But on the inside you will not be able to fit a durso standpipe. These works well on skinny overflows.
Too late now.
Already go these and glass cut to silicone them to the bottom of the skinny overflow and return
 

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