Please please help! Whitespot Nightmare :(

OK this is going in another direction but here are my thoughts. The secret in keeping SPS is KH stability. At ca 400 the KH should be about 5.5. At ca 410 the KH should be 7. so if you aquarium uses 10ppm ca the KH should swing 1.5KH. Now if your ca is 450 the KH should be about 14 if your system uses 10ppm ca then at ca 440 the KH should be 11, a 3kh swing. It is far easier to keep a SPS tank stable at ca 410 kh 7 than it is at ca 450 and KH 14. Obviously the pH needs to be stable at 8.2-4
 
To keep white spot under control , maybe add a uv and ozone .
I have done so after my problem earlier this year and seem to have no symptoms anymore.
I won't treat the fish but will reduce other irritants in the water .
Also keeping the water "treated "reduces the chance of other infections and when white spot runs its course and is in th water , the 2 items combine will kill of most of it off
 
Ok great. Thanks for all the help guys.

How would I alter the ca and kh and drop them to 410 and 7 respectively.

DeanT that sounds like an interesting alternative, do you have any idea what the cost's are for the respectively products on a 300l volume system.
 
@SpsMad dont know the prices on the ozone but that uv lights can range from about R125 to thousands of rands. but i dont believe you need a big uv light on a 300l system. so my guess will be about 250-R400 for the uv light
 
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I don't add any ca and alk to the tank, I don't have reactors, I rely on the additives in the salt mix and it has seemed to work as I am having good results with my Sps, but I think, as you mentioned I'm doing to frequent water changes. Which is causing other problems.

As far as consumption of ca and alk by the system, I'm really not sure.

I don't have space for reactors, any idea what I could do to stabilize things, which I think will be job one in getting my fish back to health.
 
Bud I see from your other thread, a week ago you quoted that your ca was 480. I would then say that your ca consumption is 30 ppm per week. This is if your ca testing is accurate and you have not done a water change in between that post and now. If you are relying on the water change to add ca and Alk then you are having a big KH swing from when you first do the change to the next water change. A 30 ppm ca usage should provide for a 4.5 KH swing. To confirm I would do a ca, mg and KH test just before you do your weekly water change and then test again 4 hours after the water change then a week later just before the water change. This will give you an idea of the ca usage and KH swing.

Ca is relatively cheep to dose compared to dosing via a salt mix. I would look at dosing pump module to dose 3 part calcium. This will keep your ca and KH stable from day to day.

If the salt mix you are using is mixing to ca 480 and KH 14 then you should run your tank at those parameters or change to a brand that mixes to a lower ca and KH. Your ca and Alk dosing should be to top up to the level of the salt mix.

As I have said. The swing in KH could be stressing the fish and will have an effect on the corals.

You SPS look like they are doing well so If you change anything. Do it slowly as you do not want to shock the system and you also have better control and can reverse if the system does not like changes you are doing. All you are trying to achieve is stability of ca & KH.
 
as @the_fish said , ozone and UV prices depend , but cause you dont have a supersize tank , costs shouldnt be too bad.
UV equipment , you can pick up for a few hundred bucks, the ozone , depends on price.
the Hailea (spelling) will cost you around 800 , and then you get the more expensive ones , made by aqua medic.

the ozone will need to be fed with a air pump , and fed either into your air intake on your skimmer , or into another small skimmer , with carbon , in the top .
if you any other info you can always drop me a PM , or will be following the thread , but i dont want this to deviate from the original subject
 
On what i a have researched is the there are 3 strains of White spot, 2 of them are somewhat cureable and the other normally kills off every thing.

How i overcome my ws problem.

I increased temp slowly like 0.5 per day until i got the tank up to 27.

I stated preparing food them them twice a day a whole mix of things nori, pellets flakes and Frozen food all drenched in garlic
Stated to dossing a vitamin supplement.

With in 4 days i stated to see an improvement on my Regal tang the worst infected.

and 3 weeks later he is still WS free.

So what i did was boosted the fish's immune system to fight off the ws on there own
 
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Soz my spam mail. I again read about everything. Did you QT? If so you can choose remove all the fish to QT and throw ich medicine. Other tanks are fine, ich will die with no fish will take more time than 3weke.

UV and ozone can help but not 100%. like 80-95%
 
Fanlie said:
Soz my spam mail. I again read about everything. Did you QT? If so you can choose remove all the fish to QT and throw ich medicine. Other tanks are fine, ich will die with no fish will take more time than 3weke.

UV and ozone can help but not 100%. like 80-95%
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i agree to a point but as soon as u add new fish from your LFS the ws will be back
 
@shaunn
white spot exists as most articles state in all tanks, its just the enviroment, that allows it to develop/ breakout .
the use of ozone and UV will make a massive difference , in the chances of this happening .
i agree QT will assist in making it non apparent , but what happens when you add the fish to your DT.
fish can stress out , from other factors , in the DT that are not in the QT ,
the only common ground you have between QT and DT is water , but fish can stress out over other things.

i dont think there is a user , that has UV and ozone , that have regretted putting it on their system, and i am sure they will agree it has made a big difference.
the other pro on these methods , is that the costs involved are low , especially since they require no up keep , and the only cost is running the units
 
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You can completely get rid of it.

Quarantine all of the fish and treat with cupramine or hyposalinity (pick one, you can't do both) for the full recommended period. Let the display run fishless for 8-9 weeks. This will get rid of the parasite completely. Obviously any new fish introduced will need to be quarantined and treated before being added to the display.
 
shaunn said:
but it takes 2 sec to stress a fish in ur DT and WS again
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Nope...if the parasite is out of the system then it's out of the system. The fish can't catch something that isn't there. It can be reintroduced by infected fish, water or substrate, but if you're quarantining then this won't happen.
 
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