PCB for 6up Meanwell Driver

Discussion in 'Anything DIY Related' started by TheGrove, 8 Jul 2013.

  1. TheGrove

    TheGrove

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    Hi Guys,

    I am looking at getting a circuit board printed for my DIY LED controller, The problem is getting a single board printed is rather expensive but getting multiple boards printed is dirt cheap.

    Basically, the PCB will be able to take the PCB mounter Meanwell drivers, terminals and resistors for the PWM controller.

    Once off setup charge R650, split between however many people want boards,

    R193.80 per board if I order 3 or more, R109.01 per board if I order 6 or more.

    The above prices exclude vat, so If I can get orders for 6 boards, it will work out to R247.77 per person, if I get more orders it will be cheaper.

    Once you have the board you can buy your Meanwell LDD-H driver of choice, range from R40-R70 per chip, terminals (really cheap).

    I have the gerber files for anyone that wants to check them out, got them off one of the international reef sites, good for up to 300W.
     
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  3. LCornelius

    LCornelius Moderator

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    How many drivers does your board handle?
    I was going to go the same route as you, just finishing the design.

    Have you looked at steves LED custom driver boards?
    They might work out cheaper.
     
  4. TheGrove

    TheGrove Thread Starter

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    The board takes up to 6 drivers, I have looked at a number of pcb's but so far this is the best one I have found, has space for a resistor on the PWM circuit allowing you to dim to zero, also the DC in is on a single thick track, apparently the other boards had issues.

    Would obviously like someone to double check the board before printing.
     
  5. LCornelius

    LCornelius Moderator

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    Please post pic of pcb
     
  6. TheGrove

    TheGrove Thread Starter

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    Here you go,

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Like I said, have the gerber files, got quotes from guys all over the country, 6 or more boards will be dirt cheap.

    Also if you guys have contacts with regards to printing PCB's even better.

    Oh Yes, Credit to Josh Lawless for the design and fantastic job. Gerber files were taken from Reef Central.
     
    Last edited: 8 Jul 2013
  7. jensvb

    jensvb

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    Interesting.... have you thought about how you will connect up the LEDs? Would you mind sharing?

    (I might be tempted in shadowing your build so that I can learn about this stuff)
     
  8. TheGrove

    TheGrove Thread Starter

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    I currently have 10W LED's running in groups of five, 2 groups of 5x10W 10-14K and 1 group of 5x10W Royal Blue. All LED's are in series and fully dimmable via PWM (drivers) or Powersupply. If one LED goes it is simple to replace, just remove solder and solder new one on.

    having 6 different channels is nice as you can control each channel.

    My current PCB only allows 3 drivers, once I upgrade to this PCB I will have 6 drivers, 2 groups of 5x10W Royal Blue (may swop one or two out with UV) and then 4 Groups of 5x10W 10-14K. Then I will dim them down extending their life expectancy and also reducing heat. Should I ever need more power it will be there :)
     
  9. dallasg

    dallasg Moderator MASA Contributor

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    interesting, i am keen to learn more
     
  10. TheGrove

    TheGrove Thread Starter

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    All you need is basic soldering skills.

    The pcb above will handle 1-6 channels depending on your requirements and handles 300W in total.

    All you need is a power supply, so price will vary depending on your requirements but still be much cheaper then buying 6 loose meanwell drivers.

    The expensive part is the PCB, the more you print the cheaper it gets.

    Any questions please feel free to post and I will try answer best I can.

    Here are the Meanwell drivers supplied by Mantech that will work on this board, Products

    So if you are running 1W, 3W or 10W there should be a driver that will work for you and all of them work on this board.

    As for terminals and the resister for the PWM, all available from Mantech and will be up to you which ones you choose to go with. I will get more info on the resistor and post it here

    Here is the PSU I used, the most cost effective. Products 7.3A gives you some headroom and you don't need to worry about burning the PSU out.
     
    Last edited: 9 Jul 2013
  11. dallasg

    dallasg Moderator MASA Contributor

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    i am keen, to try
    whats the cost?
     
  12. TheGrove

    TheGrove Thread Starter

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    If I buy 1 board it is R1100.00 ex vat

    If I buy 3 boards it is R410.00 per board ex vat

    If I buy 6 boards it is R217.34 per board ex vat

    If I buy 12 boards it is R163.17 per board ex vat

    So that is why I am trying to get as many people interested as possible. It gets significantly cheaper as you print more boards. If we could find someone on the forum with a contact in printing PCB's it may even work out cheaper, maybe they scrap the setup fee.

    The cheapest guys I could find are in Cape Town, so can ship from here.
     
    Last edited: 9 Jul 2013
  13. jensvb

    jensvb

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    Hi,

    Please put me down for 2 boards...

    Then I need a little help with working out how to configure the string of LEDs... I am going to hit google and see what I can work out and if I have any questions after that I will give you a shout.

    (I am not clear on how the amps and watts hang together... for example, how many 3w LEDs can 1 channel drive? Not the answer, but how do you work it all out)

    I hope that's ok.

    Regards
    Jens
     
  14. TheGrove

    TheGrove Thread Starter

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    Hi there, if you only want to run 3W, you can do it a few different ways.

    1. Buy a driver that matches the Amp rating of the LED's and then connect all the LED's in series, add the voltage of all LED's together until you reach the drivers capacity, with the previously mentioned PSU that will be 48V. So lets say the LED's are 9v each that will be approximately 5 LED's per string.

    2. Buy a driver with a higher current rating, connect small groups of LED's in parallel. add the current rating of each led together until it matches the current rating of the driver. If the voltage rating of a single LED is 9v then the voltage for the group will be +- 9v, then string multiple groups together until you hit the 48v.

    Option 2 will give you far more LED's per string but require higher rated drivers.

    If anyone wants to correct or change any info supplied, please feel free.

    Also once I reach at least 6 boards, I will phone the suppliers get an updated quote and let everyone know the final costing.

    Also please remember that this is DIY and this will be the first batch of boards I personally have printed for this project, I am working off information supplied by the members at Reef Central. So no guarantees or warranties, etc ,etc ,etc
     
    Last edited: 9 Jul 2013
  15. LCornelius

    LCornelius Moderator

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    Will this board dimm to 0%? That is very important for my project!
    If so, put me down for 2 boards please.

    I thing me and you gone through the same thread on RC.
    Did you read the entire thread? There was allot of info to digest!
     
  16. TheGrove

    TheGrove Thread Starter

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    @LCornelius, I spent a lot of time on that thread, this was one of the last boards mentioned and what a lot of them were using due to reliability and the space for a resistor on the PWM which is supposed to allow you to dim the unit to 0%.

    I plan to use something like this for all six drivers, http://www.mantech.co.za/ProductInfo.aspx?Item=70M0081 So if a driver blows there is no need to solder, just pull the chip and plug a new one in. Make the entire board plug and play.

    If you guys do a search for LDD-H 6-UP Josh Lawless v1.5 you will find a lot of information regarding the capabilities of the board.

    So far

    TheGrove - 2 Boards
    Lcornelius - 2 Boards
    Jensvb - 2 Boards

    We all in Cape Town so will make life a bit easier.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: 26 Nov 2015
  17. Toolboysa

    Toolboysa Moderator

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    Where is this thread. My google fails to find anything for LDD-H 6-UP Josh Lawless v1.5
     
  18. TheGrove

    TheGrove Thread Starter

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    Toolboysa likes this.
  19. lIghty

    lIghty

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    Hi TheGrove

    could you explain what you mean but making it plug and play without the need to solder? as the drivers will have to be soldered onto the board, unless you mean you going to change the whole board (all 6 drivers) with a new board?
     
  20. Andre@ReefAquatics

    Andre@ReefAquatics Sponsor

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    @TheGrove , ive looked at the pcb and all I really see is just straight connections on tracks. I see the tracks for the 6up drivers but i'm battling to see where the micocontroller (clever) part for these basic drivers and how they all fit in.

    Surely they must be a central micro controlled via an ardunio for the PW of these drivers ?

    There is not a single semiconductor on that board, so how does the controller come in?

    Just curious as have also designed a micro
     
    Last edited by a moderator: 26 Nov 2015
  21. TheGrove

    TheGrove Thread Starter

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    You don't solder the drivers to the board, you solder the ic socket to the board and just plug the driver into the ic docket, driver blows just unplug it and plug a new one in, no soldering. Do this for each driver
     
    Last edited: 10 Jul 2013
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