Urgent help needed Overflow not flowing

Discussion in 'Urgent Help Needed' started by Fishcrazy, 2 Jan 2017.

  1. RiaanP

    RiaanP Moderator

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    nope.
    I had that setup you got years ago when I started out.
    Been there,
    Done that,
    Got the T-shirt
    T-shirt became a rag long ago.
     
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  3. hotdog83

    hotdog83 Clone Fish

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    Just get a new tank :tt2: Or drill a hole on the side of the tank by lowering water line for a few minutes.
     
  4. Fishcrazy

    Fishcrazy Thread Starter

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    That is the idea.. Problem is it will take weeks to get it build.. I nees a shortterm solution
     
  5. Fishcrazy

    Fishcrazy Thread Starter

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    Never again this overflow.. It is crap. I got a plan .. Going to saw another pipe off to get more movement.. But how high must the T be.. And will it solve this problem for once and for all?.. Or till I get the new tank?
     
  6. Ally05

    Ally05

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    @Fishcrazy I suggested it as it looked easier, no sucking, little pipes and all that to go wrong and looks better. I would guess 40mm will work as it is double as he suggests in the video.
     
  7. RiaanP

    RiaanP Moderator

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    T out should be below display tank water level.

    If you set up a permanent suction on the pipe where it goes over, into a venturi style pump, then this overflow is a lot more dependable. But they need to be maintained, making sure every week that all is still OK.

    At the end of the day, a drilled tank is the best option.
     
  8. Rash

    Rash

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    Hi I think your air hole or check valve is not in the correct place see the pic. Screenshot_2017-01-03-15-33-41.png
     
  9. Fishcrazy

    Fishcrazy Thread Starter

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    It is in the correct place.
     
  10. Fishcrazy

    Fishcrazy Thread Starter

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    Yes on the second U. First U in the tank bottom.
    [​IMG]
     
  11. Rash

    Rash

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    The pic you posted is on the far left if I'm not mistaken.
     
  12. RiaanP

    RiaanP Moderator

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    [​IMG]

    This picture clearly illustrates what is wrong.
    The airline shown here is correct. Its there to be able to suck out the air to start the siphon. As long as it is closed off after the siphon starts, everything should run as intended.

    The problem here is that even if you fill up the outside U before starting the siphon, you will barely have enough water in there to just fill up the bend. Just the two elbows will have water in it. All excess water will already go out the T piece to the sump. Now sucking out the air will pull that little bit of water up towards the suction point, and will let in air. You must have more water in the outside U part, than air in the over the top "n" part.
    Moving the outside T up to just below the water level inside the tank. You would be able to fill up both U parts almost the same, with just a little bit of air trapped in the "n" section. So much easier to start the siphon.
     
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  13. Fishcrazy

    Fishcrazy Thread Starter

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    [​IMG]

    This is how it look. On the second U at the top is the the siphon line with a oneway valve on . I also have a airhole that is permanent open as per the diagram
     
  14. Fishcrazy

    Fishcrazy Thread Starter

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    My setup is the same. With a airpipe to siphon with a oneway valve. And then the T at the bottom as per diagram. I also have a airhole in the pipe going up from the T. I don't understand why this only happens once a while and rhe rest of the time it works like e bom.
     
  15. Rash

    Rash

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    In your pic your valve is on the right you should move it where the centre join is to the left then gravity should do the rest.
     
  16. Rash

    Rash

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    2017-01-03 17.29.25.png
     
  17. Fishcrazy

    Fishcrazy Thread Starter

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    Ok. I will pull it out, close the hope and drill another hole. Thank you.
     
  18. Fishcrazy

    Fishcrazy Thread Starter

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    I wish I can get someone to drill it for me. And help with it.. that will be the ultimate. Problem is I can't move it away from wall and everything is in the tank.
     
  19. JCL

    JCL

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    Let me give you my 2c worth.
    Ok, I have no marine tank yet (but planned and that is why I am here).
    But I got about 50 non marine tanks and for filtration I use all sorts of systems from sumps to canisters, hobs, as well as HMF.
    The overflow you have works fine and isn't difficult to maintain, @RiaanP gave you some decent pointers.
    But I am not sure why you constructed it the way you did as it defeats it's purpose.
    You do not need the piping inside your tank as you have it (you just need the pIping to go down your ran to whate very leven your decide. As a matter of fact, as it stands now, it could nullify the restart if your water level drops too low in the tank and air will get into the system.
    Like RiianP pointed out, the outside T needs to be higher, this one determines the water level (above this level the water from the tank will flow to the sump).
    I wouldn't drill holes nilly willy all over on a hunch, you need one little hole on the 'elbow' going over the glass with a little airline connector glued in with PVC glue and a little airline (plus a valve to close this line after you sucked the air from your system).
    This system restarts after power failures.
    If you still struggle with it, let me know, I am visiting my daughter in Brackenfell tomorrow (Wednesday) and could pop by in the afternoon to assist and get it going again.
     
  20. Fishcrazy

    Fishcrazy Thread Starter

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    Hi, that will be awesome if someone can just have a look at it and maybe help out. I was out all day and haven't had the time to dismantle it.
     
  21. RiaanP

    RiaanP Moderator

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    that depends, if you have a closed up canister filter below or an open sump. Open sump we normally have and you need to ensure that only a bit of excess water drain into sump when power goes out. Else you flood the sump.

    Water level cannot drop below the internal standpipe. The open part of the U will determine the water level when the power goes out. OK, it does depend on your siphon break on your return line, but if that is effective, the water head will only drop until its level with the open end.

    Air enters the system only under 2 circumstances. The internal water level is too low, due to the external T piece being too low. What happens is that the water drops too far down the pipe, pulling air in with it, and some of those bubbles manage to go past the bend and up into the "n" section.

    The other reason would be a too strong return pump, forcing a lot of water out the overflow, and the current is strong enough to pull down air. Depending on if you rounded and smoothed the edges of the standpipe, that have a bit of impact on water flow. But on 50mm anything under 2000L/h return pump should not cause this. Also with too strong a return pump and you will have a much higher water head in the display. That is the distance between the standpipe edge and the actual water level when system is running. Too high, and you could suck over small fish like your newly acquired snowflake clowns. Forcing you to use something like a grid to prevent that. And the grid itself would then increase the head height even more, causing slightly bigger fish to also gets stuck. With such a short / small overall overflow length, the total circumference of a 50mm pipe, you do not want a high water head in the display.
     
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