Overflow help

Discussion in 'General Discussions and Advice' started by mytank, 8 Aug 2011.

  1. mytank

    mytank

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    Hi all,

    So I finally got to finish off the GF little nano, everything is pumping and working well, no leaks! :yeahdude::yeahdude::yeahdude:

    The problem is my overflow sounds WORSE than a toilet (CONSTANTLY) sucking air. I have tried the hairline tube in the overflow (use this on my main tank with a coast to coast over flow) and it keeps the overflow there quiet but here it's a nightmare of a sound.

    I have included a overflow pic (below: Basically its a upside down 90 degree elbow) and below that it shows the flexi pipe that takes the water abour 1.4m down to the sump.

    I would really appreciate the help on making this little bugger quiet please.


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]
     
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  3. *Philip*

    *Philip*

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    search threads. not so long ago someone with a similar problem.

    maybe something you can try is to replace the 90 degree at the back with a tee. add a piece of pipe to the top of the tank, so that it will suck air there and not in the tank. stuff some filter floss in there to damp the noise.

    maybe someone else has a better/easier solution for you.
     
  4. *Philip*

    *Philip*

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    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: 9 Aug 2011
  5. mytank

    mytank Thread Starter

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    Got it thank Phil!!! Going to try and do some work around for now (T work around) so that I don't have to take the tank appart. Does the pipe foing up (the part going up (looks like fire on your diagram ;)) need to be the same size as the 90 degree or can it be a bit smaller?
     
  6. Tremayn

    Tremayn

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    you can also fit a ball valve to control the flow of the outlet.. I have the T piece like how Philip drew it but I put a stopper on top as if its open its too noisey, so I just close the ball valve a bit and the water level goes up in the overflow box and the bulkhead is under water and not sucking in air
     
  7. *Philip*

    *Philip*

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    The zig zag line in the pipe going up is filter floss stuffed in the top to silence the suction noise. The top of pipe outside needs to be higher than the water level inside the tank to prevent water from spilling over in case something goes wrong on the outside.
     
  8. *Philip*

    *Philip*

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    Tremayn, remember he does not have an overflow box that can fill up with water. His water runs directly into the 90 bend inside the tank and out. So, the ball valve might not work in his case, the tank will fill up higher when he tries to regulate the level. Very dangerous if you ask me, because he wont be able to see the water level in the pipes
     
  9. *Philip*

    *Philip*

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    before you cut the current parts out to fit a T, try drilling the top of the 90 and glue or silicone a pipe in.
    Remember your lid opens backward, so you need position pipe so that lid does not push against it.


    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: 9 Aug 2011
  10. mytank

    mytank Thread Starter

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    Ok so here is what I did. The T piece is higher than the overflow you can see it in this pic, I have to cut about 1cm off for the lid and it will still be higher.

    All I can say :eek::eek::eek::eek: it makes MORE noise now than before because its on the outside.

    However there are some issues:

    1. As you can see the ONLY way I can quiet the thing down is by using some Hair Line tubing down the T piece and by playing with it then it goes quiet.

    Problem depending on the moon, wind and smell either the water level starts rising to close to overflowing the tank or it stays perfect i.e. no noise and the level is perfect. One slight move the water level rises to dangerous proportions sigh.....

    2. Floss doesn't help it really doesn't, it sort of gets the noise out but then once again the water level starts rising ...... sigh


    HELLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLPPPPP please :)

    [​IMG]
     
  11. *Philip*

    *Philip*

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    mm, the T worked perfectly on my setup. what else is at the bottom of the pipe? does it run straight down into the sump or have bends and loops. if it has loops, the water level will do funny things, like starting a syphon, then suck everything out and start filling up again. make sure the pipe goes straight down
     
  12. *Philip*

    *Philip*

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    when there is a loop in the pipe, it needs pressure to get the water through the loop, so the level rises until the pressure is enough. then it will be quiet until the pipe is full again and waits for pressure.
     
  13. mytank

    mytank Thread Starter

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    Yeah the pipe has one or two loops and bends in it, wanted to give it some "give" just in case I had to move it around.... do you recommend making it as straight as possible?
     
  14. *Philip*

    *Philip*

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    as straight down as possible. the return can have as many loops as you want, but not the overflow pipe
     
  15. mytank

    mytank Thread Starter

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    Just counted the "loops" so it comes straight down towards the sump box. Once it hits the sump box it then goes in at the side of the sump box which takes the pipe a little bit "up" say a 5cm gradient up, then in the sump box there is a half loop again a 10cm gradient and then directly down into the sump.

    So if I understand you correctly the noise comes from the pressure release as the water reaches a point that it then dumps the water, creating a vacuum and pulls air back into the pipe?

    My other option is to chuck the flexi pipe and go good old 20 blue piping but then I am limiting my options and have to use the dam elbows everywhere as this is on my kitchen counter and the sump is right at the bottom.
     
  16. *Philip*

    *Philip*

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    nooooo. It can have bends, left and right, as long as the bends don't come back up. you should be fine. if you pour a cup of water in the top and catch a cup full at the bottom, you are safe.
     
  17. mytank

    mytank Thread Starter

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    Yeah then the pipe is fine there is water coming down just fine but it does "surge" every now and then there is def air in the pipe thats for sure.

    I am just not sure why when I put the hair line tubing down the T from the top part where you said put floss it goes silent but sometimes it also raises the level of the water in the tank.

    Its a hit and miss really and thats what makes me uncomfortable the maid might bump it then I am screwed!
     
  18. *Philip*

    *Philip*

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    the water level that rises and drops means that something is obstructing the flow down the pipe. If you have a long piece of flexible, put it on the tank in place of the current piece and run it directly into the sump. do not go in the side of the sump and all the other ways, straight into the sump.
     
  19. maxisoft

    maxisoft

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    Wow. Never thought a little noise on the overflow would spark off so much advice.....

    Initially as I suggested to you @mytank over the phone, making the t piece woukd help. Now I see that the problem lies in the pressure going into the tank. In my opinion, a Hailea 6530 is way to much overkill as a return, and I think therein lies the problem.... Too much going in.... Too much trying to get out.....
     
    Last edited by a moderator: 26 Nov 2015
  20. maxisoft

    maxisoft

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    Wow. Never thought a little noise on the overflow would spark off so much advice.....

    Initially as I suggested to you @mytank over the phone, making the t piece woukd help. Now I see that the problem lies in the pressure going into the tank. In my opinion, a Hailea 6530 is way to much overkill as a return, and I think therein lies the problem.... Too much going in.... Too much trying to get out.....
     
    Last edited by a moderator: 26 Nov 2015
  21. mytank

    mytank Thread Starter

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    I have no option now, the pump below that is 1.6m and would not work I had it and drove back to the LFS to take it back. The next pump above is this one 6530 and it works well. I have a bypass and the tap is fully open so it is allowing water back into the sump as well as pumping up on the return through a tap that I installed.

    I would agree that with the to much going in and to much going out IF and a big IF when I put the hair line tubing into the T piece the noise wouldn't go away and the level would remain the same.

    I think this has to do with the flexi tube and don't think I would have the same issue with some straight piping however right now I am not going to rebuild this and hope someone here has got some advise on how to get around this.

    The hair line tubing works but it is finicky and I can't rely on finicky things......
     
    Last edited by a moderator: 26 Nov 2015
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