Orca nitra guard bio cubes discussion

here are the pics!
can i have a hoo-raa for Orca!

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just a random question here guys @dallasg and @KillerWhale can i run np pellets in a reactor and then also the cubes in the bomb method or wont that work?
 
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CarlosF said:
just a random question here guys @dallasg and @KillerWhale can i run np pellets in a reactor and then also the cubes in the bomb method or wont that work?
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the cubes will kill the pellets, both compete for same food, and waste money
 
Ok im not having any clumping or what not with my pellets and seem to start working been a week now. should i keep them or chuck out and go cubes
 
CarlosF said:
Ok im not having any clumping or what not with my pellets and seem to start working been a week now. should i keep them or chuck out and go cubes
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my answer will be biased, but how many ml pellets are you running?
 
you might run into problems dosing so low, but you can supplement then with 500ml cubes in the bomb method, what are your current params on the new tank?
 
My setup (tested this afternoon) is already running at 0.00ppm (hanna checker) for phosphates. Nitrates are also undetectable (Salifert).

I've had an issue for months now where I have GHA that just appears to only grow from anything plastic (pumps, pipes, pump mountings) left long enough in my DT. Some live rock also just grows GHA, whereas another piece next to it is clean as a whistle.

My question is, will bio-cubes out compete whatever is feeding these clumps of algae? I've crossed some threads that GHA can also uptake food (nitrogen?) from the atmosphere (like cyno)....this has become more than a tad puzzling.

While I recognize the results portrayed by setups that started with elevated phos and nitrates, I'm looking for data that has shown visible tank improvements, beyond levels that are already at undetectable levels.
thanks
 
I will reply to all in the morning, just got back from office and dead tired
 
Adee said:
My setup (tested this afternoon) is already running at 0.00ppm (hanna checker) for phosphates. Nitrates are also undetectable (Salifert).

I've had an issue for months now where I have GHA that just appears to only grow from anything plastic (pumps, pipes, pump mountings) left long enough in my DT. Some live rock also just grows GHA, whereas another piece next to it is clean as a whistle.

My question is, will bio-cubes out compete whatever is feeding these clumps of algae? I've crossed some threads that GHA can also uptake food (nitrogen?) from the atmosphere (like cyno)....this has become more than a tad puzzling.

While I recognize the results portrayed by setups that started with elevated phos and nitrates, I'm looking for data that has shown visible tank improvements, beyond levels that are already at undetectable levels.
thanks
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well having research this a few years back i found this post
I have a spec on Acrylite(r), a brand of acrylic sheet. It has all sorts of info on chemical and physical properties. One thing I found kind of interesting is that after four months submerged, the sheet will absorb about 1% of its weight in water. The polymer structure of acrylic must be micro porous. That may be why the algae has an easier time attaching to the acrylic than glass. I'd like to see at an electron microscope picture of the surface of each material.
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GHA can gain its required nutrients from source, directly from the rock etc. i am sure @KillerWhale can elaborate further
 
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Adee said:
I've had an issue for months now where I have GHA that just appears to only grow from anything plastic (pumps, pipes, pump mountings) left long enough in my DT. Some live rock also just grows GHA, whereas another piece next to it is clean as a whistle.
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Live Rock is able to absorb Phosphates when at elevated levels, even to an extent of pulling the nutrients out of the substrate, I would advise on the peices of live rock you are struggling with, maybe to drop some Phospha-Guard underneath that rock between the substrate and the live rock, Personally i have not tried this method, but it would make sense to do it, the only other method i can think of is letting the specific pieces "cook" a bit. Phospha-gaurd, depending on it's location, normally situated in the sump can only control nutrient level within the water column, unless placed closer to the relative problem areas.
 
I would also recommend the guys using air stones under their Nitra-Guard cubes to maybe switch to an airline/airtube with plenty holes poked in the tube, reason, I've seen the air-stones leach phosphates, plenty, so just be careful on the quality of the air-stones if you haven't got the time to attack an air line with a needle.
 
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