Only a year in the build!


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Hi all

I have been away for a while and have finally decided to start a thread on my system. It has taken me about a year to get to where I am today. The whole system is complete and have been testing the plumbing with fresh water for about 3 weeks now. I have drained the water this weekend and hopefully by next weekend will get sea water and start the cycling process.

Just a quick history of my tank, (but don't worry, there will be lots of photos as I know you guys like them). We did some alterations in August last year to open plan our house and demolished a bedroom to become our new dining room. This left a recess in the wall where the old bedroom cupboards where situated. This left a perfect recess for my new setup, flush with the wall. In October 2009 the build began. It has taken so long because I have had to try and juggle many things like, work, finances for the aquarium, young children etc. It's called balance and patience. The only time to work on the tank was when my young daughter took her afternoon naps on weekends.

I am more comfortable with woodwork than metal, so the whole structure is made up of SA pine.

I don't want to write too much and bore all of you, so here is a quick drawing of what I wanted to try and acheive and the structure/framework completed. I will post more pictures in stages.


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Thanks, has taken me long enough.

I have been keeping marine aquariums on and off since I was 15 years old. In the past I have mainly kept softies and the usual fish, nemmies, inverts etc. I will be going reef, but will try some SPS this time. Things have changed so much since I sarted keeping marines that it is hard to keep up. I am a believer in what works for you, stick to it. So we will see how this one goes. Finances are also always a limitation in keeping up with the latest technology in equipment so will try and keep it simple.

Display tank dimensions: 1200 x 500 x 500
Overflow box: 500 x 300 x 130 (two outlets)
Pre-sump: 450 x 300 x 300 (will house my TS2 skimmer)
Sump: 910 x 320 x 380 with DSB

Have tried to keep an open as possible design. In other words, no centre strut (45 degree braces) to allow for easy access. One the hood door and the long side door is open, the whole top and side is completely open. The elevated pre-sump will ensure tha the water from the overflow will not have to fall too far (noise), it also gives me a convenient storage area underneath. It also allows easy flow to the sump.

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hey boet my connection is slow here at home so i cant see the pics now, but im happy to see you getting into it nicley again.. will catch up on this thread again in the morning..

PS you must send me your cell no, we need to chat polystyrene sometime if you still in that industry :)

all the best Les
 

RiaanP

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I like it.

The flush design will look stunning once the doors are fitted.

Only thing I see that I would do different is to make the last glass partition in the sump higher. So that the water level above the DSB is deeper.

But then you must recalculate your sump capabilities to haol that extra water overflow in event of power goes out. And in your design it must keep the display and pre-sump extra overflow.
 
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Impressive DIY skills! I like the idea with the Skimmer above the sump like that. Nice start so far.
 
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Thanks for all the nice comments.

Hi Leslie, good to be back. Yes, I am still in the polystyrene game, will PM you my number.

A bit tied up now, but will post some more pictures later.
 
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good looking wicked boet..
 
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Some more pics to follow:

RiaanP, I thought that the divider was a bit low, will give some thought to extending it.

Pics below show the whole cabinet painted in white, primer and finish coat. Tried to cover every inch to make it nice and clinical.

Oh, forgot to mention that the glass for DT is 10mm.

You will also see the lighting frame which is also made up of SA pine and painted. It houses 2 x 150W MH with the centre bulb being a 250W MH. I also have 2 x T5's which have installed later. The frame is suspended with plastic coated wire rope which is then attached to the inner right wall. This allows me to adjust the height of the frame at will. There are three height settings with one lifting it all the way up so I can conveniently work in the tank. A concern was the heat generated from the 250W MH so I wrapped the side posts with aluminium sheet with a Stonewool insulation materia between the timber and aluminium. Stonewool insulation is used to insulated high temperature vessels like furnaces and boilers. I sell these products so just used some of my samples.

Herewith pics:
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Some more:

All ballasts are situated in the top cupboard. Pics also show the extractor fans going in.

You can also see the fans from underneath.




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Johan van Aardt

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damn man that is looking super good.
 
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Awesome! Like the height adjustable light unit :thumbup:
How do you prevent the unit from accidently falling into the tank?
Do you like have "setting" which is the lowest the unit can go?
 
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