No 4

Discussion in 'Medium Tanks' started by xtreme, 20 Apr 2011.

  1. xtreme

    xtreme

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    Hi all

    I build about 3 setups now to house corals, and worked with different types of wood, height on tanks and lights.

    Starting to get where I want to be but it always cost me a lot of cash just to build the tanks and stands.

    This is No4, going to go the poor way till I get it right and happy with how things run before I will build No5.

    Old tank,

    size 90cmLx40cmWx45cmH going to fit slim over flow with water level at 39 with power off and 40cm with power on.

    No wood for this one!!!! Metal stand

    The sump will be 60cmLx32cmWx40cmH standard 3 chambers and next to it a Hailea hc-100 with a TS1 skimmer and 1200L/H return pump.

    The lights I'm still deciding on, maybe MH 150W with 2x T5 unit or running 6x T5's

    Want to house anything!!

    What do you guys recommend?

    I have all the above except the sump
     
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  3. xtreme

    xtreme Thread Starter

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    ok a pic

    Quickly welded the stand now

    [​IMG]
     
  4. xtreme

    xtreme Thread Starter

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    the MH unit on top of the glass, maybe I must just fit it that way:p or what do you all think?

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    But then again the heat will be the problem, maybe move it to the front and fit fans at the back?
     
  5. Tremayn

    Tremayn

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    in such a small tank I don't think the fans will be enough to help with the heat. You could also mount the light much higher
     
  6. xtreme

    xtreme Thread Starter

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    @Tremayn I have a HC-100 chiller that I'm going to use with this tank.

    Want to put my carpet anemones in there and maybe later a clam as well. The water level will be at 40cm high so how high must the unit be from the water level?
     
    Last edited by a moderator: 26 Nov 2015
  7. xtreme

    xtreme Thread Starter

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    @RiannP Need your input on this one:p My other systems is crap, the height and scaping and flow is always a problem. Why I'm building this one is due to the tank isn't that high and is wider to see how the flow will work and the scaping effect. The coral tank I want to build later will be my real setup and its about 150cmL x 80cmW and the hight still no idea, rather testing with smaller ones before building my real one.
     
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  8. Jaco Schoeman

    Jaco Schoeman MASA Contributor

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    Hey xtreme... Sorry, your @ will not work... you made a spelling error...

    lemme help

    @RiaanP

    ;)
     
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  9. xtreme

    xtreme Thread Starter

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    lol Jaco, thanks

    Oh an canceled that order with the sea fans, that I will try later.
     
  10. RiaanP

    RiaanP Moderator

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    ok, got it... :)

    Light unit directly resting on the tank. 2 possible issues. Space for your hand when feeding is a bit narrow. And you end up dripping water on the light unit leaving nice white salt marks. And the 150W MH might be just too close. It will heat the water, be prone to splash damage. Only 5cm space between water and light unit.

    Water level at 40, deduct substrate and liverock stack, and anemone will be a lot closer to the light. Although Carpets prefer to be on the substrate. Think water that is 35cm deep between anemone and water surface under a 150W MH should be OK.

    Slimline overflow, will make two outlet holes. Bottom one with ball / gate valve. Top one no valves. Water height in overflow set to be just under the top outlet. Anything gets stuck in there, then top outlet will act as emergency outlet.

    Add little triangle support for the legs. Stand will flex when you run the magnet up and down the tank. Either a triangular cut 10mm sheet (overkill) or just a short 150 to 200mm piece the same as what you used for the frame. That would make it stable. Can even do the legs at the bottom, between leg and bottom brace that runs around. But on the top side of the brace.
    for an idea.
    [​IMG]
    This stand used to flex. Now its stable. See the triangular supports.
     
    Last edited: 21 Apr 2011
  11. xtreme

    xtreme Thread Starter

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    oops, painted already:p
     
  12. xtreme

    xtreme Thread Starter

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    Riaan, do I need a DSB if I'm going to use Zeo?
     
  13. xtreme

    xtreme Thread Starter

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    @RiaanP can I brace the tank like this (orange)

    [​IMG]
     
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  14. xtreme

    xtreme Thread Starter

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    Think the overflow will brace the glass at the back so there will be no bending. Need to take it all around for my stupid snails, they climb out, lol
     
  15. RiaanP

    RiaanP Moderator

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    The bracing on the back glass needs to go all the way.
    So the slimline overflow will be tucked in under the bracing.
    My 240L is like this. And a bloody small snail went into there, creating a nice waterfall sound. And I could not get him out. He died there and becaome a permanent fixture...
    Can never win. :(
     
  16. xtreme

    xtreme Thread Starter

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    Ok change the overflow to the side, want a MP10 lol

    Made a frame for the MH unit so it's 17 cm from water surface

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  17. RiaanP

    RiaanP Moderator

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    Very nice overflow. Looking good :thumbup:
     
  18. xtreme

    xtreme Thread Starter

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    @RiaanP Thanks, trying but still just going along as I build, Have no idea how the MP10 is working at all, think the one I'm ordering will be the first one here in Swakop lol

    Made the grid that I can adjust the gaps

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
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  19. xtreme

    xtreme Thread Starter

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    Hahahaha, made my first artificial cement rock yesterday and I build it in the tank, this morning I removed the sand and add some water, geees looks like a pile ofshit lol
     
  20. xtreme

    xtreme Thread Starter

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    [​IMG]
     
  21. mrk drkng

    mrk drkng

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    Did you use white cement?
     
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