Nixxon's 2M Reef Build

Discussion in 'Supersized Tanks' started by Nixxon, 14 Mar 2012.

  1. Nixxon

    Nixxon

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    Hi all,

    I have been a very quite participant of MASA since 2009 when I first got into this "little" hobby and after much reading, planning and designing I am proud to announce I am FINALLY starting my own tank build thread :) It will be taking some time so all the update hungry monsters out there please just bare with me and I promise to supply as many pics along the way as I can :)

    DT, will be 2000 x 700 x 700 (L x W x H) 980 Litres and 10mm thick glass (Potentially Starfire for the three viewing panes depending on cost)
    You will notice I am planning a center "Skinny" overflow with Egg Crate and Bio Sponge to prevent any livestock "going over", also I have created side pods next to the overflow for the closed loop system and my return plumbing also coming up next to the overflow and then to the opposite sides of the tank. I will be looking at either an in-sump or external pump for the return depending on head loss due to the bends... I have tried to keep this in mind with both the return and CL plumbing. Closed Loop will be driving by one external pump which will sit on top of the sump.
    [​IMG]

    Sump, will be 1250 x 560 x 360 (In terms of the water volume) 252 Litres
    The first chamber in the sump will be for the skimmer flowing through to the Algae Scrubber which is positioned above the DSB and Live Rock Chamber (It is removable). I have planned a lighting section above the Scrubber and plan black vinyls to prevent light encouraging growth anywhere but on the scrubber. then over bio spounge and egg crate again to prevent algae from falling down into the DSB. Then water will flow up through the DSB and Liver rock to reach the return chamber at the back left. The sump will be sealed with sliders.
    [​IMG]

    Stand, I am planning to use wood with 50mm x 50mm and 50mm x 100mm struts and supports as per the below image. I have taken into consideration bowing, even weight distribution and interlock the various beams to ensure strength at the joins. Once the stand and cupboard is built I will be water proofing with rubberized paint all the surfaces potentially exposed. The right hand side will house the chiller and a small shelf at the top. At the back of this shelf is where I am planning the DB board.
    [​IMG]

    Lighting, I am doing a DIY LED solution similar to Butcherman's (Thanks for all the help BTW) using 3 6" x 20" Heat Sink's with Fan's and Splash Plate featuring 24 LED's made up of 9 cool white, 9 royal blue, 1 red, 1 green, two UV Violet and 2 Moonlight Blue. All three units will be connect to the Typhoon LED Controller Kit which I will use to simulate sunrise and sunset, etc. My LED layout will be as follows:
    [​IMG]

    Equipment, I am undecided as yet on the Skimmer and Pumps and as mentioned above I have a chiller for cooling. So suggestions are welcome :)

    And Finally once all is said and done I envisage that the tank will look like this :) I have gone with a canopy and do have plans to cater for the fans for the LED's. I have also provisioned for sliders on the top of the tank but I am leaning towards leaving it open and sealing the canopy with the rubberized paint and using fans to create air flow.
    [​IMG]

    I hope you guys like my ideas :)
    Look forward to the crit :) LOL
     
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  3. leslie hempel

    leslie hempel Moderator MASA Contributor

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    lovley start to what i foresee to be a fantastic thread, good one of being so thorough ;)
     
  4. Nixxon

    Nixxon Thread Starter

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    Thanks Leslie, I have gained much of my insight and inspiration from your threads... so your kind words mean a great amount! :)
     
  5. AfricaOffroad

    AfricaOffroad

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    Great SketchUp skills !:thumbup:

    Looks like its going to be a stunning set up.
    Incidently, exactly same dimensions as mine, but I did go with 12mm glass. No starfire, not sure its necessary with this thickness glass?
    Jus watch that you make your overflow long enough. otherwise you end up with a deep weir, and this can cause issues with fish washover, screen clogging etc.
     
  6. Nixxon

    Nixxon Thread Starter

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    Thanks Africa :) Very awesome tool! Whats very useful as I have been able to design the whole build and make mistakes and be able to redesign and rethink things without actually costing me in reality :)

    Should I look at 12mm rather? Even with the bracing as it is?

    Any recommendations in terms of length? Its currently 50mm x 220mm and the plumbing to the sump is 50mm PVC... My thoughts were that there will also be suction from the CL pods which will reduce the overall volume of flow but I haven't really been able to find anything scientific on this... based on my current setup the 50mm pipe doesn't really allow for any buildup in the overflow compartment.
     
    Last edited: 14 Mar 2012
  7. Singularity

    Singularity Hmmm amper!

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    12mm will let you sleep easier at night :p always try to get a fair bit of redundacy built into your setup.
     
  8. AfricaOffroad

    AfricaOffroad

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    My weir is 600mm long.
    Sump is driven by a AquaMedic OR6500. With the head loss I'm probably circulating just under 5000lph, the flow is just a few mm of water above the glass, so nicely under control with a good safety margin against clogging.
     
  9. Nixxon

    Nixxon Thread Starter

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    Fair comment... my only concern with going thicker was clarity. 12mm will definitely be stronger :)

    Thanks for the info... will look into this. How wide is your overflow? What size plumbing are you using?
     
    Last edited: 14 Mar 2012
  10. AfricaOffroad

    AfricaOffroad

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    One side of my tank is the overflow - 600mm of a 700mm side.

    I have 3 x 32mm pipes taking the water to the sump. Its a balanced set up, the 3rd pipe is really only there as an emergency should one of the others block.

    I describe its working in my tank thread.
    Its very different to your slim overflow design, so not directly applicable.
     
    Last edited: 14 Mar 2012
  11. Michael B

    Michael B

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    Great start, looking forward to seeing this one develop
     
  12. Nixxon

    Nixxon Thread Starter

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    This is a great idea! I could probably incorporate this pretty easily and it will negate the need to make my overflow any longer... Thanks bud!

    Thanks Michael :) Me too!! LOL
     
  13. Nixxon

    Nixxon Thread Starter

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    So... By way of update...

    This is what I will be ordering for the LED units:

    2 of these kits, made up of 27 cool white, 27 royal blue, 6 UV Violet, 6 Moonlight Blue, 3 Red and 3 Green. I am just waiting for stock of the UV Violet :)
    [​IMG]

    Then 3 of these bad boys with a splash plate :)
    [​IMG]

    Then Finally this bad boy to control the lighting and simulate sunrise and sunset.
    [​IMG]

    I am looking at the following gear for the engine room.

    Reef Octopus Super Reef 3000 Internal Skimmer
    [​IMG]

    For the Return I am looking at a Reef Octopus Water Blaster HY-7000 and HY-10000 for the Closed Loop System.
    [​IMG]

    May be a bit of overkill but I will be piping in a ball valves into the plumbing to control the flow...

    What do you guys think? :D
     
    Last edited: 15 Mar 2012
  14. Hammerhead

    Hammerhead

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    Great build and sketchup skills, need to get familiar with that program, tagging for some brillaint ideas.
     
  15. Evo R

    Evo R

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    Tagging for his bad boy!!:p
     
  16. Nixxon

    Nixxon Thread Starter

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    Thanks Guys, I see I am not the only one who is excited about this :) Appreciate the kind words Hammerhead ;)
     
  17. AfricaOffroad

    AfricaOffroad

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    What are the flow and head ratings of the CL and sump pumps you are looking at?
     
  18. Nixxon

    Nixxon Thread Starter

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    The specs are as follows:

    The HY-7000 is 6800 l/h Max Flow, 88watts, 3.65m Max Head.
    The HY-10000 is 10000 l/h Max Flow, 130watts, 4.72m Max Head

    :)
     
  19. AfricaOffroad

    AfricaOffroad

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    Just a thought. That CL pump isn't very efficient in the set up proposed. For 130w you are only getting 10 000L/h of flow. Its 4.72m of head is kind of wasted (Would create a high velocity jet though - this can be destructive if incorrectly aimed)
    By contrast a Vortech, Tunze, Aquamedic flow pump will give you 15 000L/h of flow from about 30-40W of consumed power.

    The latter would be a far more energy efficient solution, and with the cost of electricity would pay for itself very quickly.
     
  20. Nixxon

    Nixxon Thread Starter

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    You right Africa.. after your post I have gone and done some more reading. It seems I was under the wrong impression that the formula's for calculating flow for CL pumps VS flow pumps was different... I am going to need to rethink the closed loop I think. But going to chat to some others who have done the CL before and see what I need to do... ;)

    Day 2 and first real problem :) LOL

    BTW - You got me really thinking about those MP40's ARGHHHHHH! There goes the budget!
     
  21. Singularity

    Singularity Hmmm amper!

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    and you should be looking at the super reef octopus hy-5000 skimmer
     
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