Nitrate reactors

Discussion in 'Anything DIY Related' started by henk, 14 Oct 2009.

  1. henk

    henk

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    Hi there,I am busy building a nitrate reactor.what is the best media to put inside.Can you fill it with agronite or is bioballs the way to go.I m going to run it without a controller.Will it work?:whistling:
     
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  3. Tony

    Tony

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    You can go either the bioball route which will require the addition of bacteria and a carbon source. The sulphur denitrator require sulphur media and aragonite to lift the p.H and won't need bacteria and carbon additions. Go to reefkeeping.com to see a DIY sulphur denitrator
     
  4. henk

    henk Thread Starter

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    Will i have any problems if i use it without the controller
     
  5. henk

    henk Thread Starter

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    So i can use the bioballs and that white balls for the feeding of the bacteria.Where must the carbon go?
     
  6. henk

    henk Thread Starter

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    Is the Coil Denitrator,or the normal reactor better?
     
  7. henk

    henk Thread Starter

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    Any Help.please!!!!!!
     
  8. lanzo

    lanzo Sponsor

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    Bio balls and the aqua medic Dennie Balls...and some dennie powder for the first few weeks to feed the anerobic bacteria...after that you will be sorted.


    Remember to run a redox controller;)
     
  9. Tony

    Tony

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    You can also use bacteria like prodibio, microbacter or stability to seed the denitrator and use vodka or Brightwells biofuel for a carbon source. I think they can be run without a controller
     
  10. cmclellen

    cmclellen

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    Please post your plans - keen on rebuilding my filter and looking for some awesome ideas as mine wasn't great. Currently looking to build a filter where the activated carbon can easily be replaced, as the current design makes it a mission to replace the carbon.
    thanks a mill.
     
  11. dallasg

    dallasg Moderator MASA Contributor

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    like Tony mentioned, there are good plans and explanation n reefkeeping.com
     
  12. Nemos Janitor

    Nemos Janitor

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    :) tagging along on this one.
     
  13. henk

    henk Thread Starter

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  14. henk

    henk Thread Starter

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    So if i go for any one of the two,i must fill it with bioballs and some deniballs for food.Where must the active carbon go in the cillinder.Top or bottom.Any suggestions what size pump to use.Cillender is 600mm long and 110mm in diamater.Will a 400L our pump do the trick.I will put a valve in to frottle it.Thanks
     
  15. henk

    henk Thread Starter

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    Any Help Please!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:(
     
  16. Tony

    Tony

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    Suplhur denitrators don't need bio balls. However if you want to go with the bioballs you seed it with bacteria. The carbon is a food source not GAC. You feed the anaerobic bacteria with the carbon source whihc can be vodka, sugar, vinegar or a commercially bought product. You need to hook about a 500lph pump to the intake and where the water comes out you need to close it so that the rate of the flow is about 1 drop per second. You can filter the effluent over some GAC if you want. When feeding bacteria and carbon turn your skimmer of for a while
     
  17. Stressed Eric

    Stressed Eric

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    I'd go the coil denitrator route personally especially without a controller, less can go wrong and with sulphur lots can go wrong and badly wrong at that!
     
  18. henk

    henk Thread Starter

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    And if i go with the reachtor? bioballs and deniballs
     
  19. henk

    henk Thread Starter

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    Any suggestions.
     
  20. dallasg

    dallasg Moderator MASA Contributor

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    i'd look at this one, email me and we can discuss...

    having read up more on them, i would go with sulphur as this occurs naturally in the oceans near the ocean floor and fissures
     
  21. Nemos Janitor

    Nemos Janitor

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    OK i could not find the thread i promised to post a DIY nitrate filter so i will use this one.

    Requirements
    Working old canister filter with pipes and taps
    Bio balls and ceramic rings
    Two 25mm PVC T pieces
    Two 25mm PVC 90deg elbows
    One 25mm end stop
    Two 25mm hose tails
    Fifty mm 25mm clear PVC pipe
    25mm pipe to join fittings
    short length air hose
    air adjuster
    6mm pvc pipe

    Pack the filter with bio balls and ceramic media. If the filter uses sponges and or filter mat. Remove and do not use as they will clog the filter and opening the filter for maintenance is a no no.

    Now we want to make a contraption that will allow for the water in the canister to circulate without coming into contact with air. This is what we are going to make.

    [​IMG]

    So we first take the two T pieces and join them together with a bit of PVC pipe so that they look like a H. We do the same with with the two 90deg elbows.
    Next we glue in the two hose tails to each bottom side of the H we have made. This is where we are going to connect the in and out pipes from the canister. We then drill the end stop and fit a 6mm pipe so that the air hose can be connected to it. After that the clear PVC pipe is glued with the stopper as per the PIC's.
    Before you glue the the two 90deg elbows to the H make sure it fits comfortably on the tank. The only important thing is that the H and the two 90deg elbows must remain level. Here is a pic of how it is installed on the tank.

    [​IMG]

    In the above PIC you will see that there is a air hose from the green ehime return to the pipe we glued into the top of the end stop. This air hose has a air adjuster that we are going to use to adjust the drip rate into the nitrate filter.

    In the example, this tank runs of of two canister filters. So in this case we use the return from the normal aerobic filter. You can knock up something similar from your sump return.

    OK now connect the out pipe from the canister to the hose tail on the side the 90deg elbows are on and the in pipe from the canister to the side that the clear PVC pipe is on. You might want to prime the canister filter first before you do this.

    Now before you switch the nitrate filter on, make sure that the system is full and has no air locks. I achieve this by opening the green tap (air adjuster) and you can see the water flow into the system via the drip window. When the flow that is going in is also coming out of the return one can turn the nitrate filter on.

    Now the water in the canister is circulating within it's self and we are adding water into the system that we can see through the drip viewer and it is exiting at the outlet. Now turn the flow into the system down so the it is at a rate of about 1-2 drips a second. So now you can see your 2 drops per second through the drip viewer and there should be two drips per second exiting the outlet.

    once you are happy that the system is working you need to close the tap and stop the dripping. This will cause the filter to go anaerobic after 3 or four days. You then open the tap so that the water starts dripping again. To check if the filter is working the drips coming out of the nitrate filter should be 0ppm.

    If you want to go a little more fancy add an extra 6mm pipe to the endstop to feed vodka.

    A clip of the system working.

    will post when it uploads

    I would not go out a buy a canister filter to do this as proper nitrate filters work so much better. But if you have a filter lying around and want to give it a go before you splash some cash. give it a go.
     
    Last edited: 26 May 2011
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