New Tank Advice

Discussion in 'Beginner Discussions' started by mazoxx, 8 Jan 2013.

  1. mazoxx


    5 Feb 2012
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    Linden, JHB
    My cousin recently bought a 2000X700X800 the tank came with 6 54w T5's and has a center overflow with a 50mm pipe, the sump is 1400X45X50. I think something is not properly set.

    I need advice on the return pump because this tank came with a 3500lph pump and i think thats a small pump. What will be the best height for the overflow. Also what will be the recommended protein skimmer size. I will send the pictures of the tank later in the day. How much lighting is required if he wants to have healthy corals. What will be the minimum amount (Fine sea sand) live sand required for the DT. Also in the sump there is some crushed coral, is the any need for a DSB if so what will be the best compartment configuration.

    Phewwww, too many questions, i guess i want this to come out right so that he enjoys this hobby.
  2. Guest

  3. vatso


    3 Dec 2007
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    Pictures would be needed the return pump sounds fine one would need a 1500lt + skimmer if you want to keep SPS.

    the choice of DSB is yours you need to understand how they work and what they do and then decide.

    the lighting requirements are all dependent on what you are going to keep! if you going to run MH / LED or T5 lighting then one can help you with the amount of Par you would need at the bottom of the tank
  4. pkc


    17 Oct 2008
    Likes Received:
    The lighting.

    T5s last roughly 4 months in use for a semi normal day of lights on for around 10 to 12 hours per day, not much difference with MH.

    They are still on and firing out light but the colours that are essential for photosynthetic life are going down hill and not great after 4 to 6 months.

    LEDs can have optics on board that will focus the lightings colours very deep, by that I mean try to imagine a torches reflector how it focuses the beam narrow and a long way, that’s what LED optics can do.

    60 degree optics lenses will push the lighting at a narrow beam quite deep into your waters, mix up some 60 degree with 80 degree diodes and place sps up high in the tank and the less photosynthetic life lower down where there is slightly weaker lighting colours.

    Have 60 degree diodes at the front especially as the narrow beam missies the front glass and you get very little algae on that glass.

    PAR isn’t overly applicable with leds as they put out near no radiation as in Photosynthetic available radiation.
    Plus corals photosynthesis via colour excitation not in any way with the use of radiation at all.

    They have found corals are actually harmed by high strength lighting that puts out some radiation as UV,the way they protect them selves from this we copied as sunscreens.

    So your LEDs are fan cooled they can last 10 years or more compared with 4 to 6 months of high out put resistance lighting!

    I bought mine from china as did several of us and they are brilliant and some of the guys did the DIY,they get no better results then our cheapies from 365sunnyled in china.

    That was in June 2011.

    Also the 1.1 of 60 degree optics blue and white diodes in the 2 foot 10 watt led fluro replacement tubes i got, they sustain my algae area so well it does away with the need for a skimmer and near no water changes.

    They are great, you take out the ballast, starter and fuse, then negative at one end of the tube and positive at the other and that’s it, all of the leds needs are built in.

    I wouldn’t do a DIY from what I have seen and herd from those that have done it!

    The time and cost isn’t worth it!

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