New Tank - 1.6 m x 750 x 750

Jeann1

Jeann1

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Hi.

My current tank was built by a guy that does not drill tanks, and I have to run a filter in my tank to remove loose particals.. there is no problem with this, as it works, but I want a marine tank that works like it should.

So I am having a replacement tank built for me..

I want some advice on this setup, from overflow boxes to sump setup and most importantly, how will I move everything from my current setup to the new setup without causing major cycles..

Below is a proposed drawing of the new tank. 1 with a coast 2 coast idea, and 1 with a centre overflow box..


42444d7e152ede693.jpg
- Normal Centre Overflow



42444d7e15a1cd775.jpg
- Coast 2 Coast Idea


Lighting on this is also something I want to talk about, what do I get? A MH unit?

A T5 unit with moonlights?

Also, sump design? DSB and so on...

I really want this to be a complete setup that I do not have to worry like the 1 I have now.

Any advice welcome..
 
nice are you having a suspended light? where will your return pipe come back into the tank?
 
Regarding lighting what you intending to keep. I would just use 4 5 ft tubes enough to grow many types coral. Remember will cost more on electricity and also you might have to get a chiller, which will be another R4000. No dsb for me, run some NP pellets from day 1.
 
leslie hempel said:
nice are you having a suspended light? where will your return pipe come back into the tank?
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No idea about that Leslie.. Any possible ideas?

And on the tank, what do you suggest? the coast 2 coast, or the centre overflow?

I want 1 of those hanging light units, MH or t5.. Was looking at the giesmann range.
 
First issue, both your designs depend on a ballvalve or gatevalve on the outlet pipe. So that you can throttle back the glow and prevent that gurgling running toilet sounds. My issue with restricting the outlet is that anything can block it. I had a blue green chromis on his way to the sump stuck in there. Almost flooded my display. If you are dependent on ballvalve, I suggest a second outlet, higher up with no restrictions. In case something blocks up. With the ballvalve you try and set the water level inside the overflow chamber to be about midway to three quarters up, to stop the waterfall noise.

First design, depending on center brace, you could struggle to get anything out of there. Been there, done that. Rather move it up to either the left or right. Not under the brace.

Second design, no need for coast to coast to reach around towards the front pane. Also, coast to coast do not need to be the full back pane. Could be 70 to 80% of the back pane. Same job.

also on euro bracing, the corners do not get cut at 45 degrees. Front and back, all the way, sides shorter to fit.
 
Will you be able to reach the bottom of your tank?
 
Tremayn said:
Will you be able to reach the bottom of your tank?
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Well, i guess not..but thats ok - I Am not a fan of fiddling in the tank, so I do my rock work, and thats it - I made my own gravel cleaner that is long enough and so on, got long set of tongs needed to work..

I have great news though - Nemo's Janitor (Matthew) will be building the new tank, so I am confident now that I'am getting something decent this time round..

Other tank is for sale in the for sale forum.

Some other stuff I want to know about is reef computers, Ideal vibration pump/wavemakers for this setup - best dsb ideas..

I got involved in this hobby seriously, So i want to do this riight.
 
With nemos you in good hands i must say!

I dont know much about reef computers but your tank builder does have extensive experience on them and has posted in several threads about them so give him a shout....

I also like a deeper tank,lol but if a coral falls its a real pain as i found out several times in my 80cm deep tank.but if thats the look you like then go for it as your fish will enjoy it.

as for dsb etc what corals/fish do you wanna keep in this tank more lps and softies or a sps kinda set-up also how much maintenance do you wanna do a day or week?do you have time is what i'm really asking lol
 
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Lol.. Do any of us really have time?

I am not to worried, I have a few hours every night and weekends to spend on the new setup - I'll be doing softies and some easy LPS corals..

Thank you, I'll speak to Matthew about a reef computer
 
You want a metal halide t5 combo go for Gieseamnn Infiniti. I have seen one on a reefers tank last week, money well spent I must admit. Regarding pumps my choice none other but the Tunze streams. If you a Profilux than you talking high tech, that can control the lights like dimming and tunze pumps. Do lots of reasearch before you buy as these cost lots of bucks and hard to get your money back again.
 
Jeann1 said:
I had a look at these light units - I would go for the 60" units..now the question is MH combo or their LED option ??? :confused1:

Our Products - MH T5 LED Combo

Our Products - LED Reef capable system
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The 60" mh/t5 combo is underpowered for your tank..its around 500w only you need around 1000w

As for the LED listed on that site,its a marketing gimmick,way underpowered and produces very little lumens/par....you need around 110000lumens form mh/t5 and atleast over 60000-70000lumens if you want LED.
 
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Falcon said:
The 60" mh/t5 combo is underpowered for your tank..its around 500w only you need around 1000w
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1000W of lighting.. eish, it is only a 1.6m tank. 2 x 250W mh is more than enough even if you will have SPS.
 
Jeann1 said:
42444d7e15a1cd775.jpg
- Coast 2 Coast Idea
Click to expand...

I LOVE this design. the C2C all the way around the tank will look awesome and acts as a sort of scrubber too! You could cut out shade cloth that fits in the c2c as a scrubber you can clean easily.

RiaanP said:
First issue, both your designs depend on a ballvalve or gatevalve on the outlet pipe. So that you can throttle back the glow and prevent that gurgling running toilet sounds. My issue with restricting the outlet is that anything can block it. I had a blue green chromis on his way to the sump stuck in there. Almost flooded my display. If you are dependent on ballvalve, I suggest a second outlet, higher up with no restrictions. In case something blocks up. With the ballvalve you try and set the water level inside the overflow chamber to be about midway to three quarters up, to stop the waterfall noise..
Click to expand...

Really good advice Riaan!

If I were doing lighting on this I'd go all T5s. Especially if you aren't focusing on SPS - but even if you were, I'd still save a nice bank of T5s is the way to go.

This is gonna be one hell of a sexy build man!
 
that tank will have to be one million percent level to make that C2C work all the way around the tank, it really is overkill bringing it up the sides of the tank.

Also, with this design you dont have to take the overflow box all the way down to the bottom of the tank, why not just have your overflow pipe and box 15cm below the surface and run the pipe behind the tank? You can try the slimline overflow version which is what I wish I installed in my tank.
 
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Muz said:
1000W of lighting.. eish, it is only a 1.6m tank. 2 x 250W mh is more than enough even if you will have SPS.
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WOW,no disrespect meant buddy so please don't take this personally or the wrong way but how did you conclude that,did you thumb suck?:whistling:

The tank is quite deep and if he wants to go sps then he needs the best PROVEN lighting since he's trying to provide his inmates with the best possible conditions,I've lined up some of the best sps tanks in the world and arrived at an average lighting amount used for SUCCESSFUL SPS tanks and used that to quantify a wattage for his size tank with regards to depth as well.

Maybe you right...but I have to ask you to prove the science behind your suggestion,anyone can thumb suck unfortunately.You have any proof of this?:)

If he is going for softies yes sure those 2x 250w could work(maybe even with a few sps directly beneath it),but still would not be IDEAL.

oh and dont forget with 2 x 250 w he needs to mount it a bit higher to get good dispersion of the light and this will result in further lowering of par levels in the tank and light spillage into the room.

Muz said:
that tank will have to be one million percent level to make that C2C work all the way around the tank, it really is overkill bringing it up the sides of the tank.

Also, with this design you dont have to take the overflow box all the way down to the bottom of the tank, why not just have your overflow pipe and box 15cm below the surface and run the pipe behind the tank? You can try the slimline overflow version which is what I wish I installed in my tank.
Click to expand...

Very good suggestion, and yes the c2c isn't needed on the sides as the surface will be easily skimmed by the back alone.
I have installed a slimline overflow as you describe in my one tank and it works great.
 
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Jeann1 just as a side,if you feel that you wanna light up your reef with less lighting then go ahead,I am just suggesting the route I recommend and it may be possible to get decent results with slightly less lighting,I am just giving you the best advice from my previous experience so don't feel obligated to do as I suggest.;)

As I for one hate it when people on forums carry on like their way is the ONLY way and shove it down everyones throat:p
 
i think people tend to go overkill with lighting and think it will yield better results but it can in fact be negitive,

A tank this deep if planned properly wrt coral placement can get away comfortbly with T5 @ todays rate of technology, soon LED will take the stage but untill then and if a electricity concious system is what you have in mind, i would go T5 because you can switch the lighting on and off in stages. the same could be done with hailides but a more uneven lighting occurence would be witnessed.

You could use this to your advantage to simulate natural photoperiod intensitys by stepping lighting up towoards midday and down again towoards evening, if you wanted to.

i personally would like the lighting at its most intense when i am home to view the tank.


As for the overflow

Make sure it is practical, and acessable. there is nothing more frustrating that trying to make something thats a hassle work, a user friendly tank translates into a successful one because of the ease of being able to do maintenance without making it a chore or a mission.

if i remember correctly the system is aimed at softies and LPS, flow will probably your most important factor to consider more so than lighting, i say this because it is important to get the dirt into suspension without effecting your LPS's full extension potential. i have had LPS for many years and they DONT like fast directed (especially towoards them) current. Rather focuss flow and inch or so above them and at dead spots for dertitus and excrement removel.

sometimes practicallity wins over technology..

Just food for thought...
 
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Each to their own, but from experience 1000W on that tank is overkill, do a poll on this forum and ask how many okes with a 1.6m tank have 1000W of lighting on an SPS system.. I bet not even one, the lighting debate has raged for years, my proof was my 1.2m SPS tank that had 2 x 150W mh on it at 750 deep, the science behind it is subjective. I agree with Lesley, I am moving away from Mh and going to T5 for that very reason.

It really does depend on many factors, most okes dont put SPS in the floor of their tanks, so very few okes will take par readings at the floor level to decide on wattage.

2 x 250W with a few T5 to supp is more than enough, but if not sure throw on 3 x 400W Mh with T5 combo, that way nobody can disagree

Even this suggestion.. if these are 80w bulbs it is enough for SPS or softies.

jaquesdp08 said:
Ill do T5's only about 8 of them should be fine..
Click to expand...
 
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