nano tank advise

Discussion in 'Nano Tank advice' started by Dutchy, 23 Oct 2009.

  1. Dutchy

    Dutchy

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    Hey guys was thinking of setting up a nano sometime in Jan. Just need some help on deciding on the type of nano to get. My options are the Boyu tl550 or the JBJ 24 gallon cube. The JBJ has 2x 36 watt bulbs, for a total of 72, whereas the Boyu has two bulbs that come to a total of around 50 watts. Both have room for upgrades too put in more bulbs although i would tend not to do this as the increased heat would probably mean a chiller especially seeing that i'm in Pretoria north. Wanting to keep some nice zoas and maybe a LPS or two with some gobies or firefish. So which do i go for, the better lighting of the JBJ or the larger capacity of the Boyu? Also any other comments on either tank that might sway my decision would be helpful.

    Thanks.
     
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  3. dallasg

    dallasg Moderator MASA Contributor

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    Hi, and welcome

    for the fish and corals u want to keep, i would go with the tl550, more volume of water therefore more stability. as for the lighting that should be adequete for the corals etc.
     
  4. keyaam

    keyaam

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    Welcome. Please note that a nano might seem easy to keep but its not. Try and keep parameters stable and frequent water changes and you'll be successful
     
  5. Dutchy

    Dutchy Thread Starter

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    Thanks for the replies. Keyaam I fully understand that a nano is harder to keep, been reading up on this site as well as other for about a year now. Also read many books and magazines chronicling nanos and there husbandry, have a passion for anthing that's exotic. If i'm to start the nano i will do my utmost to make it a special one and not those sad excuses you see in so many pet shops now days.....
    To dallas, I realise the lighting on the boyu would be sufficient but would soft corals and LPS not benefit from the greater light of the JBJ? Would there photochromicity remain the same?
    Also been told you can run these nanos without a protein skimmer provided regular weekly water changes are done? (personally feel a bit skeptical about not running a skimmer)
     
  6. Jaco Schoeman

    Jaco Schoeman MASA Contributor

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    Welcome Garth... You absolutely can run without a skimmer. Skimmers have a huge mixed feelings to them. They do alot of good, but they also do alot of harm... The nice thing about nano's is you can do a 10% water change every second day, as it really is only 5 litres or so... Just do not try and stretch the water changes for longer periods, as you will then run into problems.

    On which to buy, I only JBJ, and they are very cool. However, more volume might help a bit. Question though, is the "floorspace" bigger? If so, then go with Boyu.

    Just do not rely on the intank filatration and flow and remember those water changes... Good luck and ask away if you have more questions!!! :thumbup:
     
  7. Dutchy

    Dutchy Thread Starter

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    Thanks for the reply Jaco. 10 percent water changes every second day sounds a bit much. I was told i can run without a skimmer and do a 10 percent water change every week? (thought that answer was a bit of a stretch), your thoughts?
    Will be changing from the bioballs and other crap in the back to fine sand. Will also add a power head or two. The return pump will be changed and if a protein skimmer is to be used i will be using an upgraded one made by boyu. Above the sand bed I will be running a cheto ball will a re sun mini sun day LED day light fixture. The tank itself will be stocked with fugi live rock 5 to 6 Kg to begin with. Will be using caribi sea live sand in both the back compartment and for the substrate of the tank. Do you think this will be a enough live rock? Will cycling of the tank be quicker if i use live sand? I know that cycling shoudn't be rushed but was just wondering for interest sake...

    cheers
     
  8. viper357

    viper357 Admin MASA Contributor

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    5 to 6 kg's of rock will be fine to begin with, get yourself some seachem stability to help establish the cycle and get it going. Try to get up to about 10kg's of rock eventually.

    Water changes - I reckon a 10 to 15% change every week or two will be fine, if you begin to run into problems then you can think of doing more frequent changes.
     
  9. Dutchy

    Dutchy Thread Starter

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    Thanks for the reply viper. In reference to the water change is that if i'm using a skimmer? Will the use of "live" sand speed up the process of cycling?
     
  10. viper357

    viper357 Admin MASA Contributor

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    If you are not using a skimmer then you may have to increase the frequency of your water changes, I would stick to 10% every 2 weeks with a skimmer, without a skimmer then do it weekly. There's no hard and fast rule, when your tank matures over time, about 6 months, you should find it will create it's own sort of equilibrium and you will be able to tell just by looking at your tank whether or not it needs a water change. ;)

    "live sand" - I'm not so sure about that, sand that has been in a sealed plastic bag for months and it's classed as 'alive', perhaps, I dunno, doesn't quite gel with me, but they do say that it contains beneficial bacteria so it must be some form of help. If you want to help your cycle along then get yourself some Seachem Stability, follow the instructions on the bottle, it should help with your cycle but DON'T rush things, let the cycle take it's course, it's criminal having to wait so long but it's worth it in the end ;)
     
  11. crispin

    crispin

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    have you looked into the nano tanks Idol Marine are making? They look and sound incredible and the added advantages of a sump and decent skimmer make alot of sence to me in keeping water quality better. On that point alone i would always go with a skimmer of some sort, especially in a nano where water quality is often harder to meet.

    I am not sure on prices and things, but those nano's from Idolo Marine sounded to be perfect systems with well thought out flow, filtration and lighting, its where i would go to save on all the issues with upgrades to what should be a complete setup :)
     
  12. Dutchy

    Dutchy Thread Starter

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    Thanks for the reply Viper. Definitely know not to rush the system, just wanted to know for interest sake if this live sand thing has any validity....To Crispin will check out the idol marine nano although I fear they might be running into the seamax territory price range...hopefully they can prove me wrong:whistling:.
     
  13. Dutchy

    Dutchy Thread Starter

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    Hey guys just a quick update. Have decided that the the boyu and the JBL have a few niggles that will bug me so i'm opting to build something myself that will have what I want in terms of filtration and lighting.
    So the preliminary design consists of a display tank 60cm x 60cm x 55cm with water level of +- 50cm. The tank will be rimless and out of 10mm glass with a 12mm bottom.

    First Q's is 10mm to much or little? Will starphire be necessary or overkill?

    Filltaration will happen via a C2C overflow. Final design still pending.

    2nd Q. How big will the gap for the C2C overflow need to be? Was thinking around the 1cm mark? Will this be adequate or too much/little?

    Now for the duzi. I'm going to try set this sytem up with a closed loop system. Was thinking along the lines of a OR 3500 splitting to four outlets.

    Q: Will this be enough flow and can the outlets be drilled through the C2C overflow at the back of the tank ie through both panes of glass? Or will this cause dead spaces that will be a problem? This will only be for the lower two outlets whilst the upper two will come into the tank via some plumbling still allowing a certain level of adjustability...

    Q: will this system be able to hold a honeycomb puffer (local variety) as I have read that they grow to approx 9cm? what are they like to keep and just how reef safe are they? Any good first hand accounts of keeping this fish would be appreciated.....

    Q: Finally (and i know this is random) should one syphon the substrate at the bottom of the tank if it is really fine? Will the worms and inverts that thrive in this layer not be benifical to the system if left alone and not siphoned?

    I know its a lot of questions and believe me there would have been a lot more if not for the help (and EXTREME) pateince of Lanzo:thumbup:. Please feel free to comment on what you think of the display tank ideas, dimentions etc.

    Cheers
     
  14. Dutchy

    Dutchy Thread Starter

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    BUMP....
     
  15. FransSny

    FransSny

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    See my opinions above ....
     
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  16. Dutchy

    Dutchy Thread Starter

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    Thanks for the reply Frans and the advice. Yes I have seen the marine idol design. It is brilliant but a bit of a push for someone building a tank for the first time as it incorporates a false bottom.

    With regards to the puffer as far as i understand the degree of toxicity of the the secretions is variable between species. Also the release of these toxins in a product of stress and thus in a well balanced system with stable parameters and agreeable tank mates the chances of release are minimized greatly. I cant seem to find any info on this specific puffer and hence the need for some personal accounts on husbandry....

    Just some help on this please guys....
    How big will the gap for the C2C overflow need to be? Was thinking around the 1cm mark? Will this be adequate or too much/little?

    Will this be enough flow and can the outlets be drilled through the C2C overflow at the back of the tank ie through both panes of glass? Or will this cause dead spaces that will be a problem? This will only be for the lower two outlets whilst the upper two will come into the tank via some plumbing still allowing a certain level of adjustability...

    Any experience with the honeycomb toby?
     
  17. viper357

    viper357 Admin MASA Contributor

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    Not quite sure what you mean by drilling through "both panes of glass"?

    My idea of a C2C overflow is basically a glass box along the length of one of the sides, about 5cm high x 5cm deep x 5cm wide, roughly, or it can be an angled piece of glass which is siliconed along the bottom length, the glass is angled at about 45 to 60 degrees and the water flows over the top of this then through the outlets that are drilled into the side of the tank.
     
  18. Dutchy

    Dutchy Thread Starter

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    Viper i was thinking alone the lines of a "slim" C2C overflow. A strip of 10mm glass is placed in each of the corners of the back pane and then another pane of glass is stuck onto these strips effectively creating a "false" back with a overflow box that runs the length of the back pane extending down to the base of the tank with a 1cm gap. What i want to know is can i drill through both of the "back" panes of glass effectively creating a channel through my slim C2C overflow for the closed loop system?
     
  19. viper357

    viper357 Admin MASA Contributor

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    Ok, so you will have your outlets going out of the slim overflow then you want to have your closed loop coming back in through it from the outside of the tank through both panes and then into the main tank? As long as the holes are sealed properly I don't think there should be a problem.
     
  20. Dutchy

    Dutchy Thread Starter

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    That"s the idea....in theory. Here's to hoping it works. Has no one kept a honeycomb puffer??!!! They have to be one of the most amazingly coloured fish and our local ones are probably the best representation of genus in terms of colour...
     
  21. FransSny

    FransSny

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    Hi Garth, never kept one myself but as for most puffers, they are not reef safe (will eat shrimps etc) and might become agressive towards less agressive species and nip at them.

    BTW...like your avatar (my fav fish :thumbup:)
     
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