Nano Fever

Galibore

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Hi Guys,

After a long wait I started on my new setup last week.

Display will be 43cm (L) x 37.3cm (W) x 37.5cm (H). Not sure what the sump and top-off container's size will be yet. Planning about 1,100 L/H return which will also do the circulation via a Sqwed, but I am not sure what throughput the C2C and 2 x 20mm pipes will handle.

I started with my C2C (well, it's not completely C2C as there's a 1cm gap on either side). I made it from 3mm black perspex, bonded with Mythelene Chloride and sealed on the inside with silicone. When the hood is on, you won't be able to see any silicone.

The back pane will be painted black on the outside.

PA310019.jpg


I bought a diamond coated hole saw, 25mm and drilled two holes in the back glass before construction. I followed Waynan's instructions in another thread. Very easy to do.

The first bulkhead was a tight fit. Was quite difficult to get it in the hole.

PB020022.jpg


Here the tank construction was finished, apart from a couple of small silicone bloches I still had to scrape off. Bulkheads were fitted before silicone started. I used 6mm glass for all panes. I could have used 4mm, but I found that when buying 4mm glass, it's as if the glass shops either don't care about cutting it accurately, or it's more difficult to cut 4mm glass accurately. I don't know. After the third time I had to take the glass back, I asked for 6mm glass with edges polished.

PB030030.jpg


The next two pics show the PVC corner joints I used to make the inside of the durso. On the outside I will use T pieces to complete the standpipes. I bonded the joints to the bulkheads with superglue, then used silicone to seal it properly. I learned that PVC-Weld does not join PVC to Polycarbonate...hehe.

PB030031.jpg
 
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Galibore

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And finally I fitted my C2C overflow. I used silicone on the inside as not have any visible silicone in the display.

You might have noticed that the two overflow pipes are not exactly equal. The lower one will be the feed to the skimmer. I did this so that the skimmer gets most of the flow. Only when it can't handle it, will the level rise and the second overflow pipe will spring into action. Can some more experienced guys tell me if this was a dumb idea or not.

PB030033.jpg


PB030037.jpg
 

Galibore

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Here the silicone is completely dry and the construction is done. Painted as well.

PB090039.jpg


PB090041.jpg
 

Galibore

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Here's my Durso Standpipes (of sorts) finished. I will just add the rest of my plumbing once I have my stand.

PB180048.jpg
 

Galibore

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I mounted the stand to the wall. I felt this necessary as it is tall and lean, so would topple easily. And I also got a few goodies:

P1280003.jpg


P1280006.jpg


My Ballast...mmmm can't wait to fire up this baby.

P1280005.jpg


The Weipro Skimmer (got it for R400 I think.) Modified slightly.

P1280004.jpg
 

Galibore

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Ok, drilled my top sump. 2 x 40mm holes to fit 2 x 32mm (OD) threaded bulkhead:

P3180011.jpg


Bulkheads fitted:

P3180015.jpg


Checking for positioning:

P3180019.jpg


Durso standpipes made and fitted:

P3180027.jpg
 

Galibore

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Other angle:

P3180028.jpg


Small holes drilled:

P3180029.jpg


Overflow pipes to bottom sump:

P3180030.jpg
 

Galibore

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A bit of an update, I finished most of the plumbing today.

Finished the durso's:

P4120002.jpg


Sqwd installed and ready to go. Spray bars also ready:

P4210003.jpg


The back after the main display was back in place:

P4210006.jpg


Bottom up shot:

P4210007.jpg
 

Galibore

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K, last update for the day. I will puke if I see another PVC fitting or any electrical wiring.

This is the relay I connected for my ATO:

P4220002.jpg


The pump and plumbing for the ATO:

P4220003.jpg


Ok, my float switch, that was forced slightly into a piece of 25mm PVC pipe. Nice snug fit, will never come loose. Then that piece of pipe, into a T-Joint PVC fitting. You can also see the reducer bush on the other side.

P4220007.jpg


The rest is almost self-explainatory. The blue PVC is 20mm. This runs right through another 25mm T-joint no problems. To keep it in place, I screwed a stainless steel bolt through the second T-joint to clamp the 20mm pipe. This gave me a way of ajusting the height of the float switch. The float switch's wiring goes all the way through the center of the contraption. You guys won't believe how I searched for Nylon Nuts & Bolts. Nowhere to be found. The stainless steel bolt will still be replaced with a Nylon winged bolt as soon as I can find them...haha.

P4220010.jpg
 

Galibore

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Here it is installed. Note the gap where the elbow and T-joints meet where it rests on the glass. That was on purpose so that the glass fits snuggly into it.

P4220008.jpg
 

Galibore

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And fitted my energy savers for my refugium & macro algae:

P4220015.jpg


Close up:

P4220016.jpg
 
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Ahhh man, thats a really nice setup.
How long did you plan this?
 

Galibore

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Thin layer of coarse aragonite at the bottom of the DSB:

P4220018.jpg


Then big layer of playsand:

P4220019.jpg


Tomorrow I will be adding a 3cm layer of crushed coral.


Substrate added to display:

P4220022.jpg
 

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