Nano (450 DT) gravity fed Algae Turf Scrubber

Discussion in 'Chemical Filtration / Low Nutrient Systems - LNS' started by Seabass, 29 Sep 2009.

  1. Seabass

    Seabass

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    Nano (450 DT) gravity fed Algae Turf Scrubber

    Ok here goes, firstly my thanks and appreciation goes out to Mudshark, Sweetnsour and Kayman. Much, no all of my info provided in this tread is as a direct result of communication between them and me.

    I am sure that this ATS can be used on much larger tanks, so not only for Nano owners.

    I am planning to run the flow from DT up to scrubber (ATS will be mounted on wall above DT) using either a 800 or 1200 lp/h Resun King 1 or 2 (not sure which is best) and then down the screen and let the return flow be gravity driven via 2 drainage tubes, in case one gets blocked. To date I have only purchased a 100l black plastic drum/container (+/- 550mm( L) X 300mm(W) X 400mm(H)) from local hardware supplier together with the light timer (will be on for 5 hours and off for 1, thus 4 cycles a day, thanks Mudshark). And if I do, and yes I will probably forget to thank someone for an idea they gave me and now I am planning to use in this thread I do apologies in advance. All I know is that without your input, past and in the future this project will end up on the tips.

    And now to the Questions.

    1. Which pump, 1000 or 1200 lp/h Resun King 1 or 2 power head or Resun submersible pump has been recommended?
    2. How to avoid noise, don’t want to listen to gurgling water or a noisy pump, the DT is in my room at the moment and is very silent apart from bit of noise the skimmer makes when it’s doing its thang.
    3. The plumbing???, not a DIY kind of guy, so need lots of advice here. Will I need a Durso(s) pipe(s) for the drainage from the ATS, planning to have 2 drainage pipes in case one gets blocked. Anybody who knows what exactly is required for the plumbing please assist. Will use blue plumber tubing 20mm and will probably need about 10 m?
    4. Screen, will probably need about 0.5m squared? How do I go about angling the screen inwards from the top of the ATS towards the bottom to ensure the flow runs down the screen and does not just drip from the pipes?
    5. Will use 2 computer fans to extract heat generated by the 4 energy saver lights, any suggestions on make, power etc, of the computer fans ?
    6. Will also purchase 12V AC/DC power adapter for the fans.
    7. Lighting will use 4000? or 6500? or 7000? kelvin energy saving globes. Going to use 4 of these.
    8. 4 X ceramic globe fittings.
    9. Other miscellaneous items include, 1 X plug for lights, black electric cable for lights and fans, +/- 10 meters, plastic screws +/- 50 of them, cable ties +/- 50 of them and a roll of black insulation tape. Any miscellaneous items I have missed out on?
    10. The Nano I have comes with a fixed lid, don’t want to drill the tank or have an overflow but need a plan on how to get the plumbing in and out of the tank without too much effort. Any suggestions?
    11. How many holes in the outlet pipes that spray onto the screen and how far apart?


    Any and all input is appreciated. Now I must take over the world.


     
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  3. crispin

    crispin

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    sounds like a very good idea. i'll tag along for now and see what happens:)
     
  4. sweetnsour

    sweetnsour

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    1 Use a dremel to make a straight line in the blue 20mm piping for the matting to fit into.
    This should ensure a a smooth flow over the screen

    2 You may want to think of going bigger like 25mm piping so flow isn't restricted

    3 I don't think you going to need any form of durso on the return pipes , should the power cut the water that's in the ats won't be that much so it could prob gravity feed back to the tank and not cause an overflow

    4 I would go for a 1200lph depending how far away exactly the ats will be from the DT

    5 for the fans use pc fans and also a power box from an old pc as this will convert 220 to 12v which your fans will run on.

    6 for the wiring you will need 2 plug , one for the lights and one for the pc box.

    7 the pc fans wire don't need to be thick gauge so keep that in mind. Only the lights need the size of twin flex
    .
    8 at the top of the lid in the centre-ish where the power cable for the light come out this is a single layer of plastic , I would think for a neat effect you coul cut holes there , only thing you going to need to watch out for is ensuring there is enough space for you to open the lid and should you want to slide it down. , maybe put the pipes on the sides where they made the provisions for the wires to go into the tank? But you will only have one hole on either side, 1 for the feed and 1 for the return.

    9 and lastly put the pump in the last chamber if possible and return in the first thus allowing it to work over the same water a few times .

    Hope this helps
     
  5. Seabass

    Seabass Thread Starter

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    Where and what I hope to get rid of

    Hi Brain

    Well the scrubber will be above the tank, about 500mm or so.

    I am hoping that the scrubber will get rid the GHA, copper and brown stuff on the rocks and just add better water quality for all that is in the tank.

    Do I need to add any additives if I run the scrubber?

    I do run a protein skimmer (also cleaned every 3-4days); sponge filters cleaned every 3-4 days, charcoal changed 1ce a month, 20% water changes a week and so on. For the past 2 weeks I have been treating tank with Pure Reef Phosphate Remover, 25ml per week-end.

    Regarding modifications to the tank lid, any suggestions? To me is seems that the soft clear tubing might just be easier to use in my situation. Also thinking of adding a under gravel filter to the power head instead of just placing a submersible pump in the first chamber. The reason is that all the junk will be drawn down through the substrate and up into the ATS. What do you think Brain?

    Thanks all.
     
  6. Seabass

    Seabass Thread Starter

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    [​IMG]
     
  7. Seabass

    Seabass Thread Starter

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    Ok so sorry about the previous pic should have been part of this post. I hope tha ATS will get rid of the following:

    Red/copper junk on this rock.
    [​IMG]

    GHA growing on my shroom rock.
    [​IMG]


    Red/copper junk on this rock.
    [​IMG]


    Brown hair like stuff on this rock.
    [​IMG]


    ATS to be placed 1/2m above tank.
    [​IMG]
     
  8. Seabass

    Seabass Thread Starter

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    Hi all scrubbers, have been running around to get all the bits together. One problem I have is with plumbing. The pump I have has a 12 mm outlet. I will however be using 20mm pvc. How can I overcome this?
     
  9. Seabass

    Seabass Thread Starter

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    Hi all.

    Here are the items collected over the weekend.

    3m PVC pipe and wood to fit the four lights onto.
    [​IMG]

    Tank connect lock nut 20mm. This will be at bottom of tank for the drainage back to the DT via clear 20mm pipe.
    [​IMG].

    4 Porcelain fittings for energy savers.
    [​IMG]

    4 32w 240v energy saver lights (4000K each)
    [​IMG]

    More to follow, could only post 4 in this post, not sure why?
     
  10. Broder

    Broder Mudshark

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    Just saw your thread now Pierre.

    At least 1200 litres. Powerheads have no "head" ie they don't pump well uphill.

    Durso standpipe will sort that out.

    25mm would be better, but 20mm will work if you have it already. 25mm at least for the drains though. 30mm would be best.

    Angle the holes in the pipe or put some plastic mesh behind the screen to obtain the correct angle.

    0.30w with a 0.50A transformer/adaptor

    You've got 4000k... that's cool. The jury is still out on this anyway.
    Cheers.... now go and take over the world dude... :thumbup:
    Broder.
     
    seank likes this.
  11. seank

    seank

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    Good answers Mudshark
     
  12. ReefMaster_SA

    ReefMaster_SA

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    Nice dude, Post more pics WE MUST SEE
     
  13. Seabass

    Seabass Thread Starter

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    Hi all
    Reefmaster_SA i'm back with some more pics. I found out today that I needed 20 posts before my limit on number of pics I host is increased. Yesterday I only had 19. Missed it by one.:p

    Clear 12mm and 20mm, going to have to change to 20mm throughout though as finding a way to link 12mm pump outlet with 20mm T joint is just not feasible. I have tried about 8 places in EL to try and get this right, just not happening.
    [​IMG]

    So a word of advice to all who intends to build a ATS, get a pump that has a outlet that is the same mm’s as the plumbing you intend to use, or you are going to waste time and money, I have and that makes me :(. So this one is going back to the shop for a pump with 20mm outlet. Still not sure how I will get this to work as the clear pipe is soft and the PVC pipe is hard. Someone have any ideas.
    [​IMG]

    PC fans and adaptor, no idea how to wire it. Probably blow up the ATS.
    [​IMG]

    Have screen.
    [​IMG]

    20mm end caps, these are nice.
    [​IMG]

    Just some other bits, hope stainless steel screws for the lights will be OK.
    [​IMG]


    Drains will be 20 mm. Have these already.

    Organising some light diffuser sheets to support the screens at an angle as suggested by Mudshark.

    Question for all, please assist.
    Durso standpipe, were will this go?
    How do I wire the lights?
    How do I wire the PC fans to the adaptor?
    Cutting the holes into the ATS, what should I use to do this?

    Thanks all.:thumbup:
     
  14. Johan van Aardt

    Johan van Aardt I love marines [R.I.P.]

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    Ill coment tomo gotta think and sleep on it. I did test my tank today and my only problem was gurgling sound so tomo im gonna go look for the correct plumbing fitting to make a durso standpipe.(my tank is in my room and can never sleep with too much noise)



    anybody care to give me and seabass a decent yet easy explenation of a durso standpipe with cms instead of inches
     
  15. Broder

    Broder Mudshark

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    Hey Pierre
    The pumps usually have small diameter outlets. One thing that you'll soon learn in this hobby is that nothing is standard and that you have to make things fit. I don't think I've ever undertaken a project where everything went smoothly. That's where the uber-satisfaction in completing a project successfully comes in. McGyver used to keep a marine tank before he got into TV.

    The durso goes onto the drain out of the scrubber so that it doesn't slurp and make you dream about waterfalls at night. The holes you cut with a holesaw for wood. If you don't have one, bring you box around with all of the fittings, and we can do it at my place.

    Maybe someone with electrical know-how can explain the wiring. Mine works, but I don't know if I've done it correctly.
     
  16. Seabass

    Seabass Thread Starter

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  17. Tim S

    Tim S

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    Hi chaps, tagging along as I spent the entire last weekend working on my ATS (except when rugby was on) Kept hitting snag after snag with space etc. What is a "durso" I cannot make this one out?
     
  18. Broder

    Broder Mudshark

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    It's a durso standpipe. The downturned water inlet on the drainpipe with the air intake hole in the protruding pipe. This prevents slurping as the water drains. Google should give you a simple diagram.
     
  19. Seabass

    Seabass Thread Starter

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    Hi all

    Self priming impeller pump

    I want my pump outside the DT as it is only 70 l, the Resun King 2 that I have cannot pump from outside the tank, (it needs to be in water to work), up and into the ATS. I know that I need a self priming impeller pump but don't know which pump I need.
    Any ideas?

    Cheers
     
  20. Seabass

    Seabass Thread Starter

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    Delete
     
    Last edited: 15 Oct 2009
  21. Falcon

    Falcon

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    hmm firstly 12mm is not a standard plumbing size in SA. 15mm and 20mm should be easily available in almost every diff fitting here in SA.

    as for the pump well is it possible to drill your tank and make a small box outside in which you can place the pump?seeing as this is one of those ready made tanks i dont think you can...lets think of another option...
     
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