my new setup

Discussion in 'Beginner Discussions' started by Paul Bassani, 27 Oct 2013.

  1. Paul Bassani

    Paul Bassani

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    Hi guys, so we got a bigger tank and just need some help with what to do next. Here are a few pics of [/ATTACH][/ATTACH][/ATTACH][/ATTACH][/ATTACH][/ATTACH][/ATTACH]

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  3. Ruberto Frazao

    Ruberto Frazao Sponsor

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    I think you need another xbox..
     
  4. HOT SAUCE

    HOT SAUCE

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    nice tank.. but that sump looks like it has too many unnecessary compartments. you won't be able to put any big reactors or skimmers inside
     
  5. HOT SAUCE

    HOT SAUCE

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    :thumbup:
     
  6. Bendor

    Bendor

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    Are you sure the stand is strong enough? Not being cheeky, seriously. Great heartache and misery may be brought upon you via a skinny stand.
     
  7. Gesiggie

    Gesiggie Challenge accepted

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    @Paul Bassani
    Hi there, congrats on your new system! I am sure you are looking forward to setting it up.

    Just some points to ponder.
    Are you planning on setting up the tank on that cabinet?
    If that is the intent, I would suggest you rethink that option?
    Reason being - judging from the pics, the sides of the tank are not supported by the cabinet. This might lead to a lot of extra stress on the base as it must try to keep the weight of the glass and water pressure, without being supported. This will not end well.....

    Also, the cabinet might sag in the front, as there does not appear to be any center support? This will also lead to unnecessary stress on the base, as well as front panel... Also with the potential of a sad ending...

    For the rest, it looks like a very nice sized tank with loads of potential ;)

    What do you plan to put in each sump compartment?
     
    Last edited by a moderator: 26 Nov 2015
  8. RiaanP

    RiaanP Moderator

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    well spotted.

    Yes the cabinet does not seem to fit the stand. Unless you put another strong support on top of the stand that is the full size of the tank.
    Also, what is the back of the stand. A 5mm wooden panel? Not sure if that stand with just 2 solid sides will last. It will flex eventually
     
  9. Express Reef

    Express Reef

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    Rather build a stand out off 25 x 25 mm square tubing, not that expensive and much stronger than wood… my 2c
     
  10. RiaanP

    RiaanP Moderator

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    oops
    cabinet does not fit TANK

    typing and thinking not at the same speed this morning. Needs more coffee.
     
  11. Paul Bassani

    Paul Bassani Thread Starter

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    New tank

    Hi everyone

    Thanks a lot for all the help till now, just an update

    I have a steal frame that sits in the cabinet that rest on the floor that is made of 25 x 25 steal tubing. the tank already sits on a 32 mm board that you cannot see that is under the black strip on the base and that then sits on the cabinet. the 32 mm board stretches from one side to the other.

    there should be enough strength with the metal frame.

    on the side of the sump I am really stumped with that, I am not sure if I should remove one of the baffles and put a Deep sand bed in there, not sure.

    once again thanks for the feedback:thumbup::thumbup:
     
  12. RiaanP

    RiaanP Moderator

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    As far as I can make out, you posted pictures f 2 different sumps. Which one are you talking about.
     
  13. Paul Bassani

    Paul Bassani Thread Starter

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    Sump help

    Hi
    I am going to use the one that is in the cabinet at the moment

    sorry about the mixup should not have posted the other sump

    thanks
     
  14. KeeganP

    KeeganP

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    :thumbup: Cool tank!

    :eek: 2 Xbox's
     
  15. Paul Bassani

    Paul Bassani Thread Starter

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    new tank

    @Keeganp

    thanks a lot i cannot wait to get it going.

    Yes one for watching youtube "non- modded" and one for playing games Jtagged:thumbup::thumbup:
     
    Last edited by a moderator: 26 Nov 2015
  16. KeeganP

    KeeganP

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    :thumbup: Awesome
     
  17. pkc

    pkc

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    I agree with the guys on every thing especially the nice looking tank.
    Good surrounds and not to deep for corals to do well in.
    If your aquarium base is ten mill it should be okay on that type of stand, if not do what they say and make a stronger stand, there is no way less then ten mill will go the long term with out cracking on that stand and then you have a situation one day as you are getting ready to go to work.
    Timber-particle or solid potentially changes it shape due to moisture so close by and steel does not, it just rusts if not prepared properly.
    When the timber changes its shape, what do you think will happen to scratched-scored glass which is always the way a tanks floor from being slid or dragged on installation, that’s how you cut glass.
    Make it great now so you are looking at an intact tank in years to come and boasting about your hobby and not regretting it.
    Oh and lighting?
    Leds, Leds ,leds.
     
    Last edited: 30 Oct 2013
  18. Paul Bassani

    Paul Bassani Thread Starter

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    hi

    thanks a lot, as for the base of the tank it is 10mm glass on 10mm polystyrene and 32 mm wood board then that sits on the top of the cabinet wich will eventually get a steal frame in it.

    as for the leds for lighting i have to take it slowly, funds you know.

    But thanks for all the help till now just need to see how to get the water from the sump back into the tank and make it look nice.
     
  19. pkc

    pkc

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    With a 10 mil base you could just make do with that stand by adding 2 steel supports running end to end and apply melted Vaseline on all bolts screws joins as such and that’s it for the stand.
    The timber wouldn’t move then.
    Returning waters to the aquarium is very easy, you don’t need to drill the tank for that, just change the shape of some conduit by forcing some nylon rope up into the conduit and then heat and bend the conduit to the shape over the edge of one aquarium ends corner and have it just a little under the surface as it will siphon back how much it is under the waters surface!
    Connect the return pumps hose to it after splaying the end of the conduit with a heat gun and end of a funnel so the hose does not blow off and use elec ties and its all good.
    Hope it works out the way you want it to.
     
    Last edited: 31 Oct 2013
  20. Paul Bassani

    Paul Bassani Thread Starter

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    hi

    thanks a lot i will install the steal tubing this weekend and then take some photos and update. I am going the route of bending the conduit over the edge at the back of the tank then let it come into the tank as you advised.
    Thanks a lot for all the advise, will update as i progress with my build
     
  21. pkc

    pkc

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    Treat the metal, don’t’ let it rust!
    The zinc component if galvanised will go down over time and rust will form.
    Its cheap and very simple what I come up with usually from many trials and with the conduit, I always bend it back upwards to break the waters surface tension and heat that end and use a paint scraper in the end while the conduit is still hot and soft or similar then cool to make the water come out in a very broad manner so its s soft wide current just under the surface from the returning waters.
    This makes the bubbles if any burst on the surface as well and pick up heaps of oxygen and blow off a little ammonia and nitrogen.
    Great for helping with PH stabilising from gas exchange.
    Vas on all metal parts and silicon spray on anything else including metal lighting and plug ends, spray and wipe and it will last for ever.
    Make sure no silicon spray residue can make contact with the water or it will get ugly for your tank life.
     
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