My First Saltwater Tank

Discussion in 'Nano Tanks' started by noobsw, 10 Jan 2014.

  1. noobsw

    noobsw

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    Hi all,

    So after a lot of reading and researching I decided to start my sw tank. I have it up and cycling at the moment. It is a 120lt tank with a 30lt plastic sump, I have the protein skimmer, live rock, heaters and return pump in the sump. Divided using plastic mesh. The water level is the same throughout, with a section for filter pads. I have 2 white flouresants and 2 blue, and another white one for future macro algae growth in the sump. I intend on running the blue light 8h00 to 22h00 and the white 10h00 to 18h00. My refugium light will run from 22h00 till 08h00.

    The setup is basically on a table with the sump under, I will build a new sump as soon as I get a stand for the tank. My new sump will follow a similar flow, but I wish to remove the filter pads.

    Please see picture of my tank below, I feel that I need to add a lot more rock to the aquascape. Any ideas?

    Any advice or suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
    [​IMG]


    Sandton-20140109-00251.jpg
     
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  3. dallasg

    dallasg Moderator MASA Contributor

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    that looks perfect! right amount of rock etc. good flow...
    keep us updated on the progress
     
  4. BlackSpark

    BlackSpark

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    Excellent good aquascape.

    One bit of advice, get the fancy table cloth of there...its going to get very messed up :tt2:
     
  5. noobsw

    noobsw Thread Starter

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    Hahaha, it already started. But I got it there for the time being blocking the sump under. I will get a cabinet and move it. Then no table cloth.lol.
     
  6. noobsw

    noobsw Thread Starter

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    After 3 weeks of cycling, nitrites, ammonia 0, nitrates 0.1. Ph 8.2. Sg 1.025.

    I used stability and lots of live rock during cycle, in the sump and tank.

    I have no live stock and will probably only add after 2 to 3 more weeks. I have updated the aquascape a bit and got a cabinet that I am bracing and drilling at the moment.

    Just a question for the experts, is there any way for to test whether the cycle is done? I read somewer that I should add pure ammonia and check after 3 hours, and there should be no ammonia or nitrites. This is proof that the biological filtration is working.

    Where can I get pure ammonia?
     
  7. noobsw

    noobsw Thread Starter

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    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  8. RiaanP

    RiaanP Moderator

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    no

    why do that?
    first time I see that statement.

    If you readings after 3 days in a row shows zero ammonia, then your cycle period is over and system is in balance.
     
  9. noobsw

    noobsw Thread Starter

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    I have placed my tank on a cabinet, after bracing. Added a few snails and now a ocellaris clown and yellowtail damsel.

    My wish list is to add 2 or 3 more fish:
    - Black clown - would this be ok? Or would the 2 not get along?
    - watchman gobie
    -either a coral beauty or royal gramma or lawnmower blennie
    - one pacific cleaner shrimp
    - one coral banded shrimp
    - few snails

    I will be using orca nitraguard for nutrient export (thanks for the advice dallasg)

    Anyone see any problems with my possible stock list? Any advice? Additions or removals?

    Thank u in advance. [​IMG]
     
  10. RiaanP

    RiaanP Moderator

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    Black clown, yes if its black Ocealaris clown, then it will be OK

    Lawnmower Blennie is a very cool fish. No problem adding that.

    Watchman gobie, or alternative a Midas Blennie.

    Coral beauty should be added last. It will be the most aggressive fish eventually. Royal Gramma is also a bit aggressive, but would be better than the Coral beauty. Maybe do either much later.
     
  11. noobsw

    noobsw Thread Starter

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    Maybe I'll skip the agressive 2. Thanks for the feedback.
     
  12. noobsw

    noobsw Thread Starter

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    diatoms

    Tank has been up and running for almost 3 months, have been taking things slowly. Have done a lot of research as well. Amazing how much of contradictory information there is out there. That is why I love this forum.

    I have diatom algae on the rocks and sand, even on my sponges. After researching, I have found that this is normal considering the tanks age.

    I have siphoned of what was on the sand, will the diatoms on the rocks just go away or should I remove and clean it off?

    All parameters are exactly as they we're on last post, nitrates 0. I did feed live food and notice that it just grows wildly hours after feeding live food.

    Any advice
     
  13. noobsw

    noobsw Thread Starter

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    I don't have any worms in the tank, and wish to add. As well as some feather dusters. Where can I get them? Wasn't lucky enough to get any in my live rock.
     
  14. noobsw

    noobsw Thread Starter

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    Bump
     
  15. RiaanP

    RiaanP Moderator

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    maybe get some worms from a fellow reefer. Or a small extra piece of liverock from the bottom of the pile from your LFS.
     
  16. noobsw

    noobsw Thread Starter

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    Thank you. I'll prob go get a few pieces of live rock.
     
  17. Chris Delport

    Chris Delport

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    Great looking tank,one thing I would considder is to remove the mirror on top.Been there done that,the salt corrodes the mirror from the edges inward and looks really ugly.
    I even tried sealing the edges where the mirror was cut to keep salt out but that didn't help.
     
  18. noobsw

    noobsw Thread Starter

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    Thanks for the advice, problem is the water level is quite high. So the mirror helps add height, any thing else I could perhaps use in place of the mirror?
     
  19. Baz

    Baz

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    You can use black perspex to hide water level. It's cheap and cleans easily. Many people build a wooden lid design without the lid to round off the top of their tanks. It works well and looks great but you need to seal the wood, so there's always the possibility of the wood getting water damage.

    Nice tank :)
     
  20. noobsw

    noobsw Thread Starter

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    Cool, I like the black perspex idea. I will definately go for that.
     
  21. regis

    regis

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    looking good
     
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