Malachite Green

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Warr7207

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Is it possible to get Malachite Green or Quinine Hydrochloride in South Africa? If yes, where ?
 
Non Prescription drugs are dangerous too!

:GEEK:

Are you thinking of preparing marine,antiparasitic solutions at home?
:nono:
Malachite green is available usually WITH formalin(formaldehyde 30-40%) for many FW and some marine ECTOPARASITE use.
It is carcinogenic. STAINS like a GREEN FEMALE DOG!!!

Malachite green, from KOI dealers easiest, next bet is Chemical, lab suppliers, or pharmacy by special order.

What qty?

Quinine HCl, chem/lab suppliers, or pharmacy.
It produces clear, transparent solution, usually best known as the classic ANTIMALARIAL....
hehehe You can find some quinine in Indian Tonic Water , at local cafe'
:biggrin:

Call me, I have MUUUCH safer, easier-to-use medicines .

WHY do you even NEED these, I must ask?
 
I have Ich

Obi-Wan said:
:GEEK:

Are you thinking of preparing marine,antiparasitic solutions at home?
:nono:
Malachite green is available usually WITH formalin(formaldehyde 30-40%) for many FW and some marine ECTOPARASITE use.
It is carcinogenic. STAINS like a GREEN FEMALE DOG!!!

Malachite green, from KOI dealers easiest, next bet is Chemical, lab suppliers, or pharmacy by special order.

What qty?

Quinine HCl, chem/lab suppliers, or pharmacy.
It produces clear, transparent solution, usually best known as the classic ANTIMALARIAL....
hehehe You can find some quinine in Indian Tonic Water , at local cafe'
:biggrin:

Call me, I have MUUUCH safer, easier-to-use medicines .

WHY do you even NEED these, I must ask?
Click to expand...

I have the dreaded white spot.

I need to QT all the fish and was thinking of using either of these methods.

But in reading it seems the Hypo Salinity is the preferred method.

What is your preferred method Obi_Wan ?
 
Diligence

Did you add any new fish, invert, coral, rock?
Borat would say "..naughty, naughty!" :p

If you remove to a TREATMENT TANK, not your QT, you can safely use the most effective medication/s.

If you go hyposalinity, then you don't need to medicate.
I am a fan of hyposalinity, and a few other simultaneous strategies.
Notably, NO FISH in maintank minimum 4wks.
Referred to as leaving display tank FALLOW.

IF, you have a serious chance of losing fish due to the TIME LAPSE of treatment..THEN you need Copper.

If you use copper use Cupramine, by Seachem.

Widest safety margin, between therapeutic and toxic values...combines ionic, and chelated forms.
Other forms are either/or

ALWAYS use testkit to maintain control of dosing.

To recap, you will quarantine- meaning keep away from general population BUT you won't use your QT, which may be used for coral inverts later..the residual Copper levels will taint it...making unsafe for coral/invert quarantine later.

I'm available if book/web info is unclear.
 
Last edited:
Thanks Obi Wan, I reckon the hypo salinity is the way to go, the copper medications seem to be quite extreme and deadly.
 
Hi Warr - perhaps Obi-Wan can confer: You also increase your alkalinity to higher levels (even if only temporary), as well as increase water temperature (temporarily). I believe that the higher alkalinity kills of the marine ich spores, as well as the higher temp increases the metabolism, which makes them die faster too.....
 
jacquesb said:
Hi Warr - perhaps Obi-Wan can confer: You also increase your alkalinity to higher levels (even if only temporary), as well as increase water temperature (temporarily). I believe that the higher alkalinity kills of the marine ich spores, as well as the higher temp increases the metabolism, which makes them die faster too.....
Click to expand...

I have been reading up on this menace and the truth of the matter is you have to get your fish out of the display tank, as you will never get rid of the white spot unless the life cycle is totally (4 weeks) destroyed. As much of a pain in the butt this is, I am going to do it, because my Tangs are consisently getting white spot every couple of weeks. This means that the ICH is living in my tank and won't go away till I QT all my fish.
 
Warr there are some fish that get ws no matter what you do, Regal tangs, Powder blues, Achilles etc are very prone to ws, but it is seldom fatal and is usually caused by some sort of stress. Even adding a new fish stresses my Achilles enough to get ws. I usually just run UV for a week or two during that period. If the fish come down badly then i use a fresh water dip to help them through.
 
Alan said:
Warr there are some fish that get ws no matter what you do, Regal tangs, Powder blues, Achilles etc are very prone to ws, but it is seldom fatal and is usually caused by some sort of stress. Even adding a new fish stresses my Achilles enough to get ws. I usually just run UV for a week or two during that period. If the fish come down badly then i use a fresh water dip to help them through.
Click to expand...

I totally agree, my Tangs love whitespot :(

But reading some of the material out there, I have come to understand the lifecycle of Cryptocaryon irritans. And the truth of the matter is I have done all the "in display" remedies (and they work) but i am not destroying the Ich.

So my Tangs will be prone to whitespot forever. I don't want this, and as much as I don't want a fallow tank for 4 weeks, I am going to eradicate this parasite and also implement stricter Quarantine on all new livestock.

When starting this GREAT hobby, you are so eager to have inmates that you choose to ignore the QT rule, now that I am really in love with my tank, inmates etc. it hurts me to condemn my tangs to a life of whitespot.

I know this is not for everyone but think about it.

Marine Ich/Cryptocaryon irritans - A Discussion of this Parasite and the Treatment Options Available, Part I by Steven Pro - Reefkeeping.com
 
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