Lighting times & other

Discussion in 'Lighting' started by Warr7207, 10 Jan 2008.

  1. Warr7207

    Warr7207

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    I run my t5 06h00 to 22h00 and MH 06h00 to 18h00. Is this OK ?

    I have my tank setup in my study/computer room. Now after lights out (22h00) if i switch on the room light i notice my pincushions "wake up". Is this OK ? Do corals need to "sleep".

    Also will this ambient light effect the fishs' sleeping patterns etc.
     
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  3. irie ivan

    irie ivan MASA Contributor

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    I would advise you to reduce your photperiod. As your tank inhabitants originate from the tropics, you should try keep the photoperiod the same, i.e. 12 hours of light per day. Rather have your t5's from 06h00 to 06h00 and your halides from say 11h00 to 16h00. Yes corals do need dark periods (the jury syill out whether this is sleeping or not) They use the dark period to help with immunoresponses. There is however a definite correlation between increased photoperiod and increased growth. But immunoresponses is not really something to play with.
    As the leather is a photosynthetic animal, it will respond to any ambient lighting, and respiration and photosynthesis would increase.
     
  4. Warr7207

    Warr7207 Thread Starter

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    Thanks Ivan, I will change the lighting cycle, but does this mean I can never switch on the room light after 18h00 ?
     
  5. irie ivan

    irie ivan MASA Contributor

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    There is generally a lag phase for photosynthesis to start occuring after lights are switched on, and photosynthetic activity only reaches its peak after 20 minutes of exposure. Photosynthesis is directly linked to lighting intensity, so You can regard switching ambient lighting as semi waking the corals..........
     
  6. Warr7207

    Warr7207 Thread Starter

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    You sitting on the fence :), can I run my room light (1 x powersaver with cover) from 18h00 to 02h00
     
  7. irie ivan

    irie ivan MASA Contributor

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    Yes you can, but expect photoresponse from corals. If you need to do some work there, do the work. I have never heard of corals dying from a light being swithed on during their natural rest period. Hey I do it every night when I get home. (Usually around 2am)
     
  8. Warr7207

    Warr7207 Thread Starter

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    Nice, What I will do so not cause any problems is get a desk lamp rather than lighting the entire room.

    Thanks for the advice:thumbup:
     
  9. Mike

    Mike Retired Moderator

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    Keep your lighting cycle for you to enjoy the tank, i run mine thus;-

    Actinics - on 12:00h/r off 23:00h/r
    Mh - on 13:00h/r off 22:00h/r

    the idea being, mh lamps striking can make the fish jump - having the actinics on first is like dawn, letting them run past the mh in the evening, gives the dusk effect.
     
  10. Warr7207

    Warr7207 Thread Starter

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    You must have a dark room, when the sun rises 05h00 my room is almost fully lit, the corals wake up and the fish want to be fed.
     
  11. Mike

    Mike Retired Moderator

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    i'm at work by then, they will have to wait till i'm ready, you don't buy a dog and bark yourself do you?
     
  12. Warr7207

    Warr7207 Thread Starter

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    What colour temps. are good for the corals ? 6500K ?
     
  13. viper357

    viper357 Admin MASA Contributor

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    Ideally yes, but the tank would look very yellow, 10 000k or 14 000k is better, if you run 6500k you will have to supplement with some blue tubes to take away the yellow appearance of the water.
     
  14. jacquesb

    jacquesb Retired Moderator

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    Hi Warr - just some additional comments from me:
    - I too had my photo-period like yours - currently, my lights timings are as follows:
    = actinics on at 6:30am (just for me to quickly have a very once-over of the tank in the mornings before I go to work)
    = metal halides on at 12:00pm
    = I then manually switch on my other T5's at +-6:00pm, when I get home from work
    = Metal halides off at 8:00pm
    = white T5's off at +-9:30pm (manually switch these off - cannot put them on a timer)
    = actinics off at 10:00pm

    I am still planning to add LED moonlights to my tank as well.

    I have noticed that even though my corals react very slightly to ambient light in the room, they do not react at all as when my lights really switch on....

    I do want to suggest, as you are already saying that you get sunlight into your room where the tank is kept at 5:00am - that you only switch on your actinics at either 6:00am, or perhaps even later.... I presume that your lights are on automated timers?

    And definitely agree with both Ivan and Wee-Man - either metal halides or your white actinics (if you don't have mh's) only on at around 12 or 1pm..... you can then let them run to 8 or 9pm if you want to (perhaps even later)....
    BUT as long as you keep the actinics on later than the white T5's/MH's.... so that there is a "light let-down" (ie. sun-set/dawn) period....

    It does not really make SUCH a big difference to the corals/fish - corals do not require such a LONG lighting period - I too used to think that they did - but they don't....
     
  15. Warr7207

    Warr7207 Thread Starter

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    What temps do the MH run at ?
     
  16. jacquesb

    jacquesb Retired Moderator

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    Sorry Warr- please elaborate on your question reg MH's? Do you mean how hot do the actual MH's get? Or do you mean color temperatures?
     
  17. Warr7207

    Warr7207 Thread Starter

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    Sorry, colour temp. I want to play around with some other lighting techs.
     
  18. jacquesb

    jacquesb Retired Moderator

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    OK - Warr. I currently have 14000K BLV 150 watt DE metal halides on my tank. You can go for anything "white coloration", as long as it would supply the light the corals, and your other light-loving animals like. I have established that ANY globes that have a white color of between 6500K and 8000K would have the best PAR rating, and have very good coral growth, you can compensate for the lower PAR if you want to use higher colors (e.g. 14000K, or even 20000K - even though this one looks quite blue) by using higher wattage globes (e.g. 250 watt or even 400 watt - just remember the electricity that these use up, and the heat it generates).

    The lower the Kelvin rating, the more yellow or green the water will look to the human eye. The higher the Kelvin rating, the whiter the water will look (the light in the water, rather).... except for 20000K globes - they do have a very blue look to them.....
     
  19. Warr7207

    Warr7207 Thread Starter

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    thanks, I can start my experiments
     
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