Lighting ideas please

Discussion in 'Lighting' started by RiaanP, 17 Mar 2010.

  1. RiaanP

    RiaanP Moderator

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    Before I finally commit, let me ask all of you for suggestions and opinions.

    [​IMG]

    Tank is 1.5 * .75 * .75
    Yes a bit deep.
    The opening on top, after the euro bracing is 1.227 * .520m So the light unit must fit in there. Now the problem. The beam of the Lapa is 135mm above the tank right in the middle. And water level another 50mm down as measured from top of euro brace.

    My own preference is softies, Zoa, Leathers and some LPS like hammer, frogspawn. Personally I do not like SPS. For some reason it does not do it for me. (Well not yet) And anemones, nope, had one, not successful. And I doubt that in this tank feeding anemones will work anyway.

    Original, my plan was 2 T5 units. 54W. 4 tubes in one and 6 in the other. If space a problem then the 6 must be downgraded to 4. The light unit will be DIY. Front unit must be able to move up, to allow access to the tank. All with individual reflectors.

    But now, I'm reconsidering all my option. Metal Halides, those of Radiant Lightning part number BG42. Size is 230*140 by 122 high. so it can be mounted against the beam. Either 3 units of 150W or 2 units of 250W. Using 14000K globes
    Tank access is then not a problem.

    Or what options do you guys suggest.
     
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  3. crispin

    crispin

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    for the simple fact that the tank is deep and the MH give you access to be able to scape and move things around I would go with MH. Also id go with 2 or three 250W MH if you can, then you have great shimmer effect and enough lighting for all those sps you will want later on:)
     
  4. Manic

    Manic Moderator

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    As crispin said I would go for 2 X 250W metal halides. It works out cheaper in the long run with respect to changing globes
     
  5. ADVdiver

    ADVdiver

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    Due to the fact you are not looking to stock any SPS i would reccomend T5 i would use 8 to 10 80w tubes. With this you can add a wider range in light spectrum you can phase the lights in in two or three stages, offering a natural enviroment. yes your wattage will be higher and replacement of tubes will work out slightly more but the variety in spectrum and visual appearance through the stages of light will speak volumes. Here is an idea of the stages[​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  6. lIghty

    lIghty

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    2x 250Mh.
     
  7. RiaanP

    RiaanP Thread Starter Moderator

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    ADVdiver, yes that is what I had in mind. 3 lightning periods. Starting low, go higher until "midday" then down again. Should be easier to control algae growth with different light intensities. On my current tank I got T5, and I like the use of different globes together.

    But the T5 unit will be a problem space wise. Can fit, but front one must be moved to get access.

    MH, if I do not like the colour, I'm pretty much stuffed. Maybe add 2 T5 54w actinic, and let that run first and last during the day. Then the MH can be a shorter brighter period (peek) during the day.

    Can MH run on a normal electronic timer, those that plug into a wall socket?
     
  8. Manic

    Manic Moderator

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    I've run mine on digital timers that plug in the wall for almost a year now and no problem, as long as the timer is rated for more than the light...
     
  9. Nemos Janitor

    Nemos Janitor

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    :lol: Lightning ideas?? Do you mean fast ideas or flashy ones. :biggrin:
    Yup the typo is a bugger some times.:thumbup:
     
  10. keyaam

    keyaam

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    I agree with advdiver. T5s are underrated. I know the tank is 750deep but you are not going to keep corals which need huge lighting. You might be able to get away with 54w as light will not penetrate well through the bracing. 10 T5s should be sufficient with proper reflectors. For a comparison have a look at Mekaeel and Imarines tank. only T5s
     
  11. mariusmeyer

    mariusmeyer

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    2 X 250 MH with 2 - 4 54W T5s. More T5s gives you more flexibility in colour and as you said less time for the MH to be on.
     
  12. ADVdiver

    ADVdiver

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    Personally I think for your application with no acros the halides would be a waste. Even the T5's will be okay for some acro's.
     
  13. dallasg

    dallasg Moderator MASA Contributor

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    Even looking on zeovit and RC some of the SPS tank just use T5's.
    i would suggest if you going for 10 globes for
    coral blue
    actinic
    10k
    10K
    12K
    coral blue
    10k
    10k
    coral blue
    actinic
     
  14. Jaco Schoeman

    Jaco Schoeman MASA Contributor

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    IMO, go for two 150W MH @ 20000K and supplement with 12000 / 14000K tubes on that size tank and if you are not gonna keep SPS...

    BTW, that closed loop looks amazing!!! Gonna work VERY nicely!!!

    10/10!!!! :thumbup:
     
  15. davidfr7

    davidfr7

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    2c 3 MH 2 directly over head and 3rd one to be tilted to remove shadows. Its neat less wires with a remote box for the electrics. The tilt idea came from a guy who lives in Norway, works well.

    Riaan if you want to you are welcome to come look. You will have a very clear idea of what i'm talking about.
     
  16. Mekaeel

    Mekaeel Moderator MASA Contributor

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    Riaan, if you can fit those T5 units in, go for it. The advantage of T5's is, you can play with the different bulbs and obtain awesome colours! SPS will thrive under the lighting. There are many SPS tanks that are 750 deep and SPS are thriving. Take a look at Zeovit.com. As long as your water quality is good, The light will penetrate well. :)
     
  17. dallasg

    dallasg Moderator MASA Contributor

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    Amen!
     
  18. RiaanP

    RiaanP Thread Starter Moderator

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    oh no...
    Last night I was convinced to go MH
    Now, I'm back at T5....

    The euro bracing runs around. There is no big in the way cross brace in the middle.

    And I will run an ozone unit. So clearer water should be on its way.

    T5

    • Can play with colours.
    • 8 to 10 tubes, 432 to 540w
    • Might have access problem at the front.
    • Can have a varied light intensity during the day. (Algae growing, just shorten the main / middle of the day light period)
    MH

    • Less tubes
    • replacement cost - should be less
    • No access problem
    • 3*150 or 2*250, 450 to 500W
    • if I do not like the colour - I'm stuffed
    • Less play on timers. Algae out of hand, Lights either on or off.
    Combo

    • 2 * 150w MH plus 4*54W T5
    • 516W total
    • Can adjust colour with T5 tubes.
    • again access problem. Front two T5, could be in my way.
    Max Wattage used is basically the same.
    But with more light cycles available with T5, the total consumption on T5 only setup during the day could be less than a pure MH setup.

    So deciding factor, is initial cost, and easy of installation.
     
  19. RiaanP

    RiaanP Thread Starter Moderator

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    [​IMG]
    Another angle, to show the position of the beam
    Another solution could be one 400W MH mounted on a rail that moves over the tank automatically during the day.... (Anthony Calfso's idea)
    But the beam is to close to get that in.:(
     
  20. Tim S

    Tim S

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    Have you got a centre brace? One or three MH's will result in the centre brace heating up drastically (if you have one) and run the risk of cracking. I have this problem.:(
     
  21. RiaanP

    RiaanP Thread Starter Moderator

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