Please help me here i know what kalk was does but the thing i dont know is when you add it to the Dripping divice and u shack it, it goes cloudy then sits on the bottom how does that work?Is the CA already in water? Doyou need to keep it moving?
The calcium dissolves into the water, and remains dissolved even when the water is clear. the correct way to go about this is to stir/shake the solution well, then let it stand for a few hours to allow the solids to fall out of suspension, and to then carefully pour/siphon the clear liquid into a second container and to then use only the clear liquid in the dripping device.the thing i dont know is when you add it to the Dripping divice and u shack it, it goes cloudy then sits on the bottom how does that work?Is the CA already in water? Doyou need to keep it moving?
Suggestion: dissolve it with vinegar, it helps dissolving it into the water column.what i do is take 4 tsp of kalkwasser throw it into ro drum(25l), shake well and place pump from auto top up in drum to suck upper layer out, when water evapurates.
don't have $$$ for kalkstirrer, and it helps allot in my system
To those who don't know what the heck we are talking about.Shall we stir things up a bit and talk about Calfo's slurry method
I actually don't like kalk slurries for most hobbyists. Too much can go wrong and you can end up with a Carbonate snowstorm. Putting the slurry directly into the main tank can cause precipitate to fall on corals and burn them. Putting the slurry into a sump can cause abiotic precipitation and ruin heaters and pumps.And so, it is my advice to aquarists who responsibly test for the additives they use, to dose calcium hydroxide in increments (whisked briefly in a cup of cold purified water) that do not raise the pH of a system by more than two tenths of a point. The portion will begin conservatively small (starting with 1/16th of a teaspoon per one hunderd gallons of system water) and increase until the pH climbs two tenths of a point or the tested amount satisfies the daily demand for calcium in that portion, whichever comes first. A digital pH monitor makes very short work of this process and is highly recommended with this style of dosing calcium. Most systems less than 3 years old and under 200 gallons in capacity can have their daily demand for calcium satisfied in a single shot of slurried kalkwasser after the sun goes down: a one minute procedure after the parameters have been set. To maximaize phosphate fallout and calcium uptake, it has been observed that kalkwasser additions are more effective if they can be safely dosed into the main display rather than the sump. This method of calcium supplementation should appeal to aquarists and coral farmers who cannot afford or choose not to invest in calcium reactors. I do not even believe that calcium rectors are necessarily better, although they are excellent vehicles for calcium and alkalinity maintenance. The contrast between the methods is simple. Calcium reactors are convenient but expensive. Manual applications of kalkwasser could be very inexpensive, but requires daily attention. Coral farmers starting up or operating large facilities are advised to dose kalkwasser manually until they are so wealthy (wink) that they can afford such delightfully convenient toys for each system. Until then, dosing really isn't so bad. The nature of coral propagaion is inherently labor intensive and requires consistent, daily attention. The one-minute diversion of dosing kalkwasser is simply part of a farmer's day. Private aquarists are otherwise encouraged to seriously consider automated calcium supplementation, as cost management is not quite so critical in not-for-profit operations.
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