Is my nennie too close to zoa colony ???

Discussion in 'Anemone's' started by Sammy, 25 Jun 2011.

  1. Sammy

    Sammy

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    Hi guy, just added my nennie today, beautiful purple tip baby.

    I've place him where I thought good, good light and flow and his not started wondering ?

    Just realized he could be quite close to the brown zoa colony on the top right ?


    Your thoughts will be appreciated.

    Thx[​IMG]
     
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  3. Sentari

    Sentari

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    Got the same problem with mine.

    Nothing you can do. The nennie has a more powerful stink than the Zoa's so the Zoa's will suffer.

    Dont know if its a problem but personally if the nennie is happy there leave it.
     
  4. JsPLAYn

    JsPLAYn

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    If the nennie is happy, move the zoas:p
     
  5. Sammy

    Sammy Thread Starter

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    Thx guys, well I only placed him today ???? so fingers crossed, I will monitor the zoas and see how they do.
     
  6. Anemone

    Anemone

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    I've had an anemone and zoanthids live next to each other peacefully for years without issue, (eventually I tore down the tank) however that is not always the case. The anemone will go where it wants. Its best to let it pick its spot and move everything else.

    Your anemone is bleached BTW. I've having a hard time seeing the tentacle length in that pic, but it may also be starving. What are your plans for feeding?
     
  7. Sammy

    Sammy Thread Starter

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    Hi there, bought it today from LFS, could it be that is still needs to settle in ?
    I've been doing quite a bit of research and will be getting into a feed regime with live foods.

    Do you suggest I start feeding straight away ? I do have some deli shrimp I could try ?
     
  8. Sammy

    Sammy Thread Starter

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    Ok, just been to tank and took another pics, tentacles look much longer ???
    Please note the lights have been off for 2 hrs already

    [​IMG][​IMG]
     
  9. Anemone

    Anemone

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    Sammy likes this.
  10. Keanan

    Keanan 2time

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    Hi Sammy, was nice meeting you today.

    Nice size that anemone but like Brenda said, its bleached but was healthier than the other one.
     
  11. Keanan

    Keanan 2time

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    Hi Brenda, (Sammy i hope you dont mind me butting in here)

    What is recommended to get a anemone that is a bit bleached back to health, more specifically a RBTA. And how long would it take to get it back to full health again? It is not that much bleached. Sorry I dont have a pic for you.
     
  12. Anemone

    Anemone

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    There are many variables involved. It depends on your tank, lighting, filtration, livestock, water parameters, age of tank, etc. It also depends on the tentacle length. If they are short, the first priority is to get the anemone eating. If they are stubs....getting it to eat can be more difficult. Add bleached and stubby tentacles, even more difficult. Add bleached, stubby, insufficient lighting or tank mates, poor water parameters and you will have a more difficult time. There is no magic number that I can give you as far as time. It can take months, sometimes 2 months, or less, sometimes more.

    Tell me more about your tank, tank mates, feeding, lighting, water parameters, age of tank, and about your equipment. Also tell me how long you’ve had it, where it came from (wild captured, or propagated) the age of your tank, and if you know…what caused the anemone to bleach?
     
  13. gMAN

    gMAN with the plan

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    @Anemone
    ok, I'm no expert on anemones, but is this nennie really bleached? Correct me if I'm wrong but this is a Sebae and I've only ever seen them in members setups and at most LFS in this exact same coloration. I've gone back to the same LFS more than a month later and the same specimen looked exactly the same under excellent lighting and being well fed? So my question, is it not possible that this is it's color?
     
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  14. gMAN

    gMAN with the plan

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    @2time, i got my H.Magnifica a wee bit bleached, what I did was wait for it to find it's comfort zone then fed it 4-5 times a week small pieces of mussel & silverside.
     
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  15. Sammy

    Sammy Thread Starter

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    just fed mysis now with turkey baster, didn't really see nennie close up and eat, however I did get a good amount sticking on tentacles, would he of consumed this without closing ?

    I just want to be sure that this guy is eating ok?
     
  16. gMAN

    gMAN with the plan

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    @Sammy
    It's a good sign if the tentacles are sticky, if you sit and watch it for a while to see if it moves the food to it's mouth? Also, try feeding tiny pieces (less than a cm) of mussel/hake/silverside...? Try get the plain frozen hake or mussel not the ones in brine water or oil, defrost in some tank water then place on it's tentacles...?
     
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  17. Sammy

    Sammy Thread Starter

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    Ok thanks dude, a nice reason to go down to the harbor and see what small fish I can collect there, there are always youngsters catching that nice small fish, maybe I can bung them a fiver for their catch, LOL ...
     
  18. gMAN

    gMAN with the plan

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    hmmmmmm.... dunno about harbor fish with all the pollutants in the water, you can get a 1kg packet of frozen mussel from Pick n Pay for about 50-60 bucks and it will last forever....
     
  19. Sammy

    Sammy Thread Starter

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    @gMAN, after reading your post I went digging further and found this:

    Difficult to keep anemones

    Heteractis crispa or H. Malu, Sebae anemone, Singapore anemone, pink tipped [but not condylactis] anemone. Tentacles range from long and thin to short and fat depending on the condition of the anemone [ short and fat means the anemones is starting to waste away]. Tentacles usually have magenta colored tips although yellowish green tips are not uncommon. Colors can be dyed yellow, dyed pink, natural pink / purple, natural yellow, tan, but by far the most common is pure white. The oral disk may also have a green sheen under actinic light.


    http://www.w3page.com/fishline/anem.html
     
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  20. Sammy

    Sammy Thread Starter

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    and reading further a bit more gloom:

    Bad points -

    No one , not even the public aquariums, can keep the white or yellow ones alive for more than 6 - 8 months. Out of 20 responses regarding sebaes only 2 anemones had stayed alive for more than a year. Both the anemones were tan in color either when purchased or had turned tan shortly there after. Getting otherwise healthy sebaes to " color up" by feeding once a week with fresh fish, clam, shrimp or gelatin. They should also get brine shrimp, adult and baby. In addition to frequent feedings the anemones should be under metal halide lights. If the anemone is not able to replace its zooxanthellae it is doomed to a very slow starvation once is the tank. There are cream colored sebae anemones found in shallow water in the wild, but they not the transparent white color found in dealers tanks. They don't seem to be good beginners anemone despite articles that say they are.
     
  21. gMAN

    gMAN with the plan

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    @Sammy
    Don't be deterred by what you read, if your nennie has settled in one spot that is already a step in the right direction, sticky tentacles means that it is somewhat healthy. Feed it 3-4 times a week and I'm positive you may have a healthy nennie in your setup. May I ask what lighting you have?

    I know it's not the same species, but have a look at my thread below, after lots of attention and timelessly nursing this is how my guy turned out. After my recent move to a 5ft it did lose a lot of it's color but it's back to form again...

    http://www.marineaquariumsa.com/showthread.php?t=18395&page=3
     
    Last edited by a moderator: 26 Nov 2015
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