Ich-X reef safe?
- Thread starter ArnoS146
- Start date
Maybe this can assist...look at point 1
DIRECTIONS FOR USE
To treat “ich” disease (ichthyophthiriasis) of freshwater fishes and “marine ich” disease (cryptocaryonaisis) of marine fishes, add one (1) teaspoon (~5 mL) of Ich-X to 10 gallons of aquarium water. For Best Results: (1) always treat in a separate quarantine/treatment tank, (2) remove activated carbon from filters and clean or replace mechanical filtration media (do not stop filtration!) (3) make at least 1/3 water change before each addition of Ich-X (use Ultimate to condition new water (4) repeat treatments at least every 24 hours, but no more often than every 8 hours, depending upon the course of the disease (refer to the Ich-X Product Data Sheet).
DIRECTIONS FOR USE
To treat “ich” disease (ichthyophthiriasis) of freshwater fishes and “marine ich” disease (cryptocaryonaisis) of marine fishes, add one (1) teaspoon (~5 mL) of Ich-X to 10 gallons of aquarium water. For Best Results: (1) always treat in a separate quarantine/treatment tank, (2) remove activated carbon from filters and clean or replace mechanical filtration media (do not stop filtration!) (3) make at least 1/3 water change before each addition of Ich-X (use Ultimate to condition new water (4) repeat treatments at least every 24 hours, but no more often than every 8 hours, depending upon the course of the disease (refer to the Ich-X Product Data Sheet).
Not reef safe. Despite the packaging, it did a number on my euphylia. I chucked it and bought a QT.
Even if it was reef safe (Not arguing this point as it may be reef safe) does it actually even work? Ask anyone that's been in this game long enough and the simple answer is you do not treat/medicate your fish in a reef tank. QT tank or rather leave fish in display tank and try build up the fish immunity with foods so it can fight off the white spot itself.
Im sorry...but ive tried leaving fish in the display and tried the feeding thing to keep immunity up. To me its a bit like playing russion roulette. You roll the dice and if you lucky you survive.
I followed this advise twice of keeping fish in tank and trying to keep them fat to fight the disease. And both times i lost half my fish. So i am not so sure giving somone that advise is the right thing to do.
I followed this advise twice of keeping fish in tank and trying to keep them fat to fight the disease. And both times i lost half my fish. So i am not so sure giving somone that advise is the right thing to do.
If using Cupramine/copper was 100% successful I would recommend this first but I can tell you more stories of people and even experienced people killing fish in QT tanks than leaving them in their display tanks.
1 thing people forget when trying to boost immunity they are over feeding the tank and water quality takes a big knock. It is very important to feed well but also manage the water quality. A good UV sterilizer goes a long way...
Good idea, once you have a nice established tank you want to be careful with introducing anything that is wet...
If you want to keep white spot out of the display, anything wet will have to be qt-ed for around 3 months. That means you need a proper fishless tank with stable parameters if you want to say qt SPS. So IMO that makes it really difficult to have an enjoyable hobby. For me ozone is the one differentiating factor that improves water quality enough that white spot is not a problem, even more than a UV sterilizer.