Urgent help needed Ich help

Discussion in 'Urgent Help Needed' started by candy, 28 May 2010.

  1. candy

    candy

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    Hi all,

    Just discovered through some reading that my tank has ich. Please advise what i can do tonight? Should I do a water change? How much seawater and how much RO water? I have an anti-ich for a tropical tank, can it be used for a marine tank? Please guys, I am a beginner so simple english is needed. :)

    All the articles have these long explanations advising different things...what is the best way to solve the problem. most of my fish aren't eating and my goldie is very lethargic...

    please help!
     
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  3. Reef Maniac

    Reef Maniac MASA Contributor

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    Hi Candy,

    NO !

    The fresh-water disease is caused by a totally different organism than that which causes marine white spot, and the treatments are different as well.

    Before you do anything, please post a full discription of your system (and especially what livestock you are keeping in the tank). Most inverts are very sensitive to copper, and will be killed if you use any copper-based medication in your tank. Your live rock will also absorb copper, and will release it again for a long time, even if you change all the tank water, thus remaining dangerous to corals and other inverts for a long time after treating the tank.

    If your fish have marine white spot it would be best to treat them in a dedicated hospital tank, using the hypo-saline (low salinity) method. You must be sure that it IS white spot, though, and not marine velvet (which looks similar)

    Hennie
     
  4. LuckyFish

    LuckyFish MASA Contributor

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    Then you are in big shit and you have to react fast.
    You need a quarantene tank. Add a powerhead, room light is enough, a canopy and heater, skimmer if you want, but not needed.
    The powerhead has to pull the water through some filtermedia, which you should take out of the filter from your Display tank.
    Put fresh seawater into the QT, adjust ph, temp and salinity to the same parameter as your DT. Fill the QT only one third. Drip constantly RO water in front of the powerhead outlet, after you have moved all your fish into the QT.
    Leave shrimps and crabs in the DT.
    Drop the salinity in the QT down to 1.009 and keep it there for four, better six weeks.
    After this period, your DT and QT will be free from Ich.
    Fish which is already not swimming or only laying, put for 5 minutes in freshwater with same Ph and temp as your DT. If needed, give them a freshwater dip now and put them back into the DT until your QT is set up. Don't wait for other solutions.
    Get everything sorted tomorrow morning.
    Hyposalinity is the best, cheapest and healthiest way to get rid of Ich.
    To check the salinity, you need to use a Refractometer.
    Very important is to check the salinity in the QT daily.
    Keep it always 1.009.
    You can drop the salinity in the QT with the fish in it, within a few hours, but if the fish is more or less fine, rather take your time and drop the salinity within two days down to 1.009.
     
  5. chikaboo

    chikaboo

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    Hey there candy it's times like these were pics really can help fellow reefers help you ... Plz post some ASAP and some as closeup as possible.....
     
  6. LuckyFish

    LuckyFish MASA Contributor

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    We tried to help, we asked questions, we did not get any answers for the last few days.
    I reckon all your fish died. If not, don't ask for advice if you are not willing to answer a few questions or keeping us updated.
    We got better things to do than checking your urgent help thread a few times per day!
     
  7. deadmeat2016

    deadmeat2016 Wouter

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    bit aggressive but i agree, urgent threads are treated as urgent, we really just wanna help:)
     
  8. candy

    candy Thread Starter

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    @ Lucky Fish - Actually i had some issues with my internet connection. Your aggression is very disappointing. I am happy to say that my fish did not die - so sorry to disappoint you. I did read through your advice and was able to do some of it. In the end I went to the pet shop and with their advice have managed to make a difference. All my fish a looking healthier and happier. Thanks to your disgusting attitude, i will be leaving this site....so sorry if i dented your swollen ego by not replying to you immediately! Cheers to all the other people on this site who have actually been pretty cool....Lucky fish - good luck to you.
     
  9. deadmeat2016

    deadmeat2016 Wouter

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    Oh dear, i understand however although you are unjoining, this site is full of useful info so please browse and u can never learn too much :thumbup:, sounds like your LFS is reliable, most just lie to make as much money as possible like my LFS :(. Hope all goes well in future candy :wave2:
     
  10. LuckyFish

    LuckyFish MASA Contributor

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    My aggressive undertone was meant to force you for a reply.
    I did work. I have to apologize, you could not get online, thats an excuse I will accept.
    See it from our point of view. We try to help and then no answer. Do you know how many times that happens? Not to me, but all the gurus are giving great advise in their spare time and then nobody comes back with answers on their question.
    There is nothing wrong with my ego, I just say and write what I think and I open my mouth many times for others. The guys, that know me personaly can second that.
    Better outspoken and direct, than hiding behind other peoples back.
    BTW, I am very glad to hear that your fishes are on the way up.
    Don't be cross with me and leaving this site just because of my comment is not worth it. I had to deal twice with Ich and the first time I lost 450 fish within days.
    So I am really concerned about other peoples livestock, especially when it comes to Ich.
     
  11. RiaanP

    RiaanP Moderator

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    Did you put the fish in a seperate tank?

    If not, check the whitespot repeat in 20 to 25 days. No point in killing the visible parasites but the egg capsules are in the substrate.

    Leave inverts where they are. They cannot carry whitespot, and low salinity is no good for them. Once whitespot eggs hatch they need a host like within 2 days or else they die. But because there are "grown-up" whitespot, you have to continue for a complete live cycle of whitespot. That is why 4 to 6 weeks are adviced. Their life cycle depends on water temperature and is max about 25 days. So 6 weeks is two cycles.


    And Luckyfish are German... Accept him for that. I did.
     
  12. LuckyFish

    LuckyFish MASA Contributor

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    LOL Riaan,
    Robvdv told me once, if he puts what I am saying through his German filter, then he fully understands me. Am I really that bad?
     
  13. Mouse

    Mouse

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    You even ask?
     
  14. Mouse

    Mouse

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    You even ask?
     
  15. RiaanP

    RiaanP Moderator

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    German Filter ? Berlin method? :)

    I used to work with a lot of Germans a couple of years back (BMW). In some big projects. Funny guys. In the meeting they k@k and complain and backstab each other and everybody. Then lunchtime or dinner they have a beer together, all issues forgotten. Funny. So I think I'm used to it.
     
  16. LuckyFish

    LuckyFish MASA Contributor

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    I don't backstab anybody, just to keep the record straight. :)
     
  17. candy

    candy Thread Starter

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    I came back online to check out the comments...No worries Luckyfish.....:peroni: Thanks to all of you who have given me good advice!
     
  18. LuckyFish

    LuckyFish MASA Contributor

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    Alright Candy, please post an update about what you did to prevent the worst case.
    We want to know it! :)
     
  19. candy

    candy Thread Starter

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    On Friday night when I initially posted the call for help, the only thing we could do is take out some of the sea water and top up with RO. This did make a difference and the fish seemed a bit happier.

    The guy at my LFS asked about the symptoms and he said that it didn't sound like white spot but rather ......(I cannot for the life of me remember the name!) Basically our goldie was lethargic, lying on the sand, scratching against the rocks, not eating, gasping for air and had like a white sheen on its sides. The other fish seemed ok but not wanting to eat. I tested the nitrate, phosphate, ph and alkalinity and sadly all the levels were up the creek! (I don't have the exact results with me - have got them written down at home.)

    Anyway the LFS guy advised us to up the tank temp to 29, switch off the lights, turn off protein skimmer, just have the powerhead going, remove carbon from filter for one week. We have also put a treatment in the water (Dont have the name with me).

    So, all the fish are eating now and the goldie has picked up his energy levels! The only unfortunate thing is that our male boxing shrimp shed his skin on Sunday and the female attacked him in his vulnerable state and he now has lost both of his pinchers. I hope that he will be ok.

    I'm not too sure what to do after this week of recommended treatment. We do not have a QT or anything. I guess a water change would be advisable.
     
  20. Reef Maniac

    Reef Maniac MASA Contributor

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    As I said in my first post on this thread, inverts (including shrimp) are very sensitive to copper. They are also sensitive to changes in salinity, so it could be either the "treatment" which you added or the drop in salinity (or both...) which caused the shedding.

    Without having all the facts, this does not sound like the best treatment to me - upping the temperature AND stopping the skimmer will hit your system with a double wammy of reduced dissolved oxygen, and I cannot see how this will benefit any living organism in the tank. Anyway, as I said, I'm making these comments without having a clear indication of your system... and THAT's why I asked you to post a full description of your system in that first post.

    By not giving us enough information you are really making this VERY DIFFICULT for us to try to help you and your livestock...

    Hennie
     
  21. LuckyFish

    LuckyFish MASA Contributor

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    I second the above!

    This sounds scary. Raising the temperature up to 29 degrees, means you might raise the temperature above 30 degrees without even knowing it, because the thermometer we use are all not very accurate. All lights are off, so nothing is going to produce oxygen via photosyntesis. The only oxygen producing "thing" is also getting switch off, the skimmer!
    If there is a bacteria infection, the bacteria will reproduce faster with higher temperatures. If there is a parasite infecting the fish, the parasites lifecycle will be also faster.
    You got so many really good experts here who are willing to help you, but you can´t provide the necessary informations and/or pictures. We don´t even know, if you got corals in your tank. High temperature, no light, less or next to nothing oxygen and maybe low salinity (We don´t know what your salinity reading is!) can wipe out everything.

    Your livestock, your money, your choice!
     
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