How to setup a quarantine tank?

Discussion in 'Quarantine Tanks, sick fish, QT corals' started by Express Reef, 29 Dec 2011.

  1. Express Reef

    Express Reef

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    Good Day All,

    After losing my first fish, I really think I need to be better prepared for sick fish. Strugle to Quarintine the fish due to a short of Quarintine tank, equipment and meds.

    What will be the ideal tank size for a Quarantine tank? Can it be small? like say 300 x 250 x 250? With a overflow or without?

    Regards,

    E.R
     
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  3. RiaanP

    RiaanP Moderator

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    Depends on the size and type of the fish you need to quarantine.

    Keep in mind, that the fish have to stay in this setup for at least 6 weeks. So it have to be happy. It must be covered with eggcrate. It must have adequate filtration. Lightning must be enough to be used with coral if and when you do quarantine corals.

    For a Gobie, yes you can use that size tank. But for a tang, no matter what size, that will be a bit too small.

    And you need enough water movement around the surface to ensure gas exchange.
     
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  4. Express Reef

    Express Reef Thread Starter

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    @RiaanP - Thank Riaan, what size would you sugest? I`m thinking of building a small tank with a small sump, with a small return pump, and one small power head...

    Do you make use of a Q/tank? and what is the specs on the tank???

    Thanx in advance, do value your input, helped me alot up 2 date :thumbup:
     
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  5. RiaanP

    RiaanP Moderator

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    My QT / peppermint system
    [​IMG]

    Its a full blown tank. I have another light fitting that I can use, but when I took this picture that was the unit I used. Top tank drilled. Although the top tank do not have an overflow box, the PVC standpipe itself is the overflow. But it is noisy and needs a durso. Will fit a proper corner overflow soon.

    Also do have eggcrate covering, but at the stage I took the photo, there was only peppermint shrimps in the tank. Ideally the tank should not be close to the main system.

    This is 2 standard Daro 90cm tanks. Check in Junkmail. Bottom one setup as 3 chamber sump. With TS1 skimmer in first chamber, DSB and return. All that live rock in the middle is now sold and that chamber is now a proper DSB.

    I do agree, a DSB is not really right for a quarantine system. Neither are liverock. Due to medication. But I got 2 * 42L tubs that I use for the bucket method. And if medicine are needed, I rather do it in the tub that hold a smaller volume. Less medicine use and easier to control.
     
  6. Express Reef

    Express Reef Thread Starter

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    @RiaanP, Wow thats one big Q-Tank Riaan... What is the cost on running a Q-Tank that size? Would like to have one like that but my space is limited... I stay in a townhouse... So I need to build something smaller, but dont want to rush things and just build, and end up its not working... Was thinkin of building a smal tank, maybe 500 x 500 x 300(not 2 deep then I can use it for a frag tank 2? :whistling:) with a small overflow and 3 chamber sump with mabe bioballs???

    Anyone with sugestiions on a not too big Q-Tank???
     
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  7. Tobes

    Tobes Retired Moderator

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    My take on a QT is an empty tank, heater, flow pump, with or without a sump, skimmer and lights should you want to QT corals. There must be no substrate, LR or other filtration for parasites to populate in.
    If a fish gets sick or it's a new addition, you take water from your display tank and fill the QT to not stress an already sick fish with different water parameters. You can then use the opportunity to do a water change on your main tank.
    Treat the fish with whatever meds as prescribed and do regular water changes, after the treatment is done and fish healed, you empty the QT tank and clean with RO till needed again. You can put PVC pipe pieces or other reefsafe plastic ornaments in for the fish to hide in.
    What I don't like about a permanently running QT is the chances of infecting a new addition after maybe treating a sick fish, should the meds not kill all the parasites hiding in the rocks or substrate.
     
  8. Tobes

    Tobes Retired Moderator

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    I would say a 3 foot would be a good size. If you plan on adding alot of tangs then a normal 4 foot will be better. Like I said, you don't need a sump, you can just have the tank and do regular water changes or even use a hang on skimmer. The bioload will be very low anyway.
     
  9. Express Reef

    Express Reef Thread Starter

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    @Tobes, thanks for the good advice tobes... My space is limited, what would you say would be the best size to build a Q-Tank? I`m thinking of 400 x 400 x 350? Will you run a sump with a overflow and a small return pump? :whistling:

    Thanks again for all the advice in the past, and my skimmer is working now thanx for that. :yeahdude:
     
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  10. RiaanP

    RiaanP Moderator

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    I do agree.
    I run my QT empty with just the shrimps in it for at least 6 weeks. So parasites, should be gone. Without substrate, it is a lot easier to clean, and can re-use it quicker.

    With substrate and or DSB, I can only buy a fish every 3rd month. Maybe not too bad as it prevents me from impulse buying.

    But yes, removing the DSB and rather fill that up with bio balls would be a lot easier to clean. But at the price of bio balls compared to playsand....
     
  11. Express Reef

    Express Reef Thread Starter

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    @Tobes, Sorry post the exact same time :whistling:...
     
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  12. RiaanP

    RiaanP Moderator

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    if you can, yes use a sump. You can almost double up on your water volume. Not crucial, but then you got more space for filtration for example bio-balls
    But its up to you.
     
  13. Express Reef

    Express Reef Thread Starter

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    @RiaanP & Tobe: if I build a Q-Tank, what would be the preferable depth? Think of building it 500 x 500 x 350? With a false back, divided into 4 chambers, with bioballs and fine filtration with a small return pump? Then at leaste the surface will be skimmed and put in a small power head for flow? Anny sugestions or input?

    Thanx for all the feedback :thumbup:
     
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  14. RiaanP

    RiaanP Moderator

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    350 should be fine. That is about the depth of standard Daro tanks anyway.

    Just use eggcrate to prevent carpet / tile surfing
     
  15. Express Reef

    Express Reef Thread Starter

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    @RiaanP : :thumbup: will make time to do some google sketch up... will post my ideas and ask for futher input. Thanx a million :peroni:
     
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  16. ZaxXx

    ZaxXx

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    i will go with Tobes QT any day since it makes more sense and its ALOT simpler and practicle.
    Thanks Tobes:thumbup:
     
  17. Tobes

    Tobes Retired Moderator

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    Push da button! Push da button! Lol
     
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  18. Express Reef

    Express Reef Thread Starter

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  19. Tobes

    Tobes Retired Moderator

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    You didn't push the button :(
     
  20. magman

    magman

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    here's my qt, a 4ft, 120cm x 45cm x 45cm, with a 3ft sump. Return is a 3000lt/hr. I have one other 3000lt/hr powerhead for additional flow.

    The sump has only one partition, where the return sit's in about 2/3 of the sump space (a big return area for lots of siphoning 30mins after every feeding).

    The best bet is a few 110mm pipes for hiding, and nothing else, or it absorbs any meds you have and hosts differant stages of any parasites you trying to get rid of.

    I found the best was to feed smallish bits several times a day, usually new fish you try lots of differant foods to try get them to eat, then 30 mins after, you turn the pumps off, and siphon out, usually over the course of the day I would siphon out 20-30% of water volumn, hence a large return is needed.
     
  21. Tobes

    Tobes Retired Moderator

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    I agree with Magman to siphon out excess foods. But, be careful when you treat the fish with meds, cause if you remove too much water and need to add a lot of new water, then you will thin out the meds making it less effective. You need to plan to do this siphoning daily after feeding like mentioned but before adding the next meds.
     
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