How long can a tank run for without filteration

Discussion in 'General Discussions and Advice' started by Dohn, 4 Aug 2009.

  1. Dohn

    Dohn MASA Contributor

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    I want to redo my sump area and was wondering how long my tank could stand for without the sumps and pumps.

    [​IMG]

    I have emptied the bottom sump of all live rock and sand, so there is just 2 pumps in there. 1 pump pumps to the display tank at 4000l an hour and the other to my top sump at 5000l an hour with a head of about 2.5m My piping is all 25mm.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    In my DSP i have a wavebox and a resun wavemaker for circulation with substrate level of about 8cm.
    [​IMG]

    In my top sump i have my algae scrubbers and a DSB with a compartment full of liverock.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    I want to move the bottom sump all the way to the left, remove all the baffles except for the middle one. The left side will be for equipment and the right side for a auto topup resovoir.

    I want to bring my overflow pipe ( 50mm )out across the top of the sump compartment with a couple of T pieces in it that will feed ball valves. These balls valves will then feed water to the various equipment. Ie skimmer inlet, a canister water filter for Activated carbon and phosphate remover. The overflow pipe will run across the top of the sump and then go back up next to the display tank, making a bend just before the top of the display tank and come back down to the sump. (In case my surge overwelms the Ball valves and to prevent floods.)
    Im hoping that this will also make the overflow less noisy.

    While i do this i will have the display tank circulating with my Tunze wavebox and resun wavemaker.

    The top sump will be circulating by my algae scrubber pump.
     
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  3. scubaninja

    scubaninja

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    Tunze wavebox:yeahdude::yeahdude: we should start a club ;)
    as far as your carbon and po4 remover, you shouldnt have them on the overflow section of the tank, detritus will settle in there and become a trap of note, rather have it on its own line from the return chamber where there isnt likely any bits of rubbish to get trapped in there. I think your tank could run almost indefinitly on the basis that any bioload is easily catered for by your rock and scrubber, i mean look at mudsharks tank. I wanted to run a system off just an algae scrubber but opted for zeovit.. I think you'll be ok for the time it will take to redo your sump. Lighty and i fully stripped my 1.2m sump and reglued it, i let it sit for 2 days then i glued sump chambers in and then another day and i had it filled up fully the next day. So i think if you plan it right you can do the entire sump and have it ready within two days if you have help(i only waited for the two days before addin the sump glass because it had not been bought yet ;) )
     
  4. RiaanP

    RiaanP Moderator

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    Why not move the sump to the left, leave it as it is, and put another tank separate on the right for your RO top-up?

    That is what I will do. And you do not lower your total water volume.

    Also moving the sump to the left, then as with your idea, the RO top-up chamber will be behind the middle support. Making filling it up more difficult. (One day you will kick yourself).

    On that note, while busy with top-up chamber, design it is such a matter that you can easily refill it. Test it, if too high you will struggle to get your RO drum in to fill it. But at the right hand edge, should make it easier.
     
  5. RiaanP

    RiaanP Moderator

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    I can see why the overflow is noisy. With the wave action the water is not always consistent on the outlet point.So you end up with water falling then nothing, then next wave water flowing...
    Only way to get it silenced is to put a box around it, at the top, so that water will spill over the box, before falling down the pipe. Something that will keep the water level constant inside the box.
    The box do not need to be deep. Can test it with an icecream tub that fit over the overflow. Almost like a rock pool. Does not need to be very wide (front to back), but the longer (left to right) will make it work.
    But it has to fill up quicker than it is emtying. And overflow pipe slightly shorter.
     
  6. Dohn

    Dohn Thread Starter MASA Contributor

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    Sorry RiaanP, that was an old picture.
    I have built a box for the overflow. I stole the idea from the Tunze oveflow box that george suggested i use.

    [​IMG]
     
  7. RiaanP

    RiaanP Moderator

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    Now, that is clever.
    Should not have a noisy overflow then. If you still have put a Soil Vent Valve on the downpipe. It is like a durso, just a lot smaller.
     
  8. Dohn

    Dohn Thread Starter MASA Contributor

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    see the roblem is the pipe is 50mm and im not pumping anywhere near that amount in the display tank for a constant flow. So the noise is water trickling down the pipe and then the bubbles and water mixing at the bottom of the pipe. The box reduces the noise alot. When i take the lid off it sounds like victoria falls.
     
  9. RiaanP

    RiaanP Moderator

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    I understand,

    Try this...
    [​IMG]

    It is used on sewerage pipes. Just remove the 4 little rubber valves inside.
    Exactly like a Durso, just a lot more compact.
     
  10. RiaanP

    RiaanP Moderator

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    It can handle 400l per minute, now that is a turnover rate! :)

    OK, yes it is 400l air, going through 2 of the 4 valves, 2 valves in and 2 valves out.
    So with valves removed and water instead of air. Wonder what is the flowrate?
     
  11. riyadhessa

    riyadhessa

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    This is very clever...

    So will this eliminate the noise...?
     
  12. RiaanP

    RiaanP Moderator

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    Yes, its another form of a Durso, just a lot more compact. And a lot less DIY work to make it work. Can adjust the air inlet until it is silent.
    It worked for me on my previous setup. But my current Playstation II the outlet works totally different.
     
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