High Nitrates.


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.hi guys thanks for all the comments

I tested tonight:
Ammonia 0
Nitrites 0
Nitrates 100
Alkanity 6.5
Ph8.4
Phosphates 2.

So nitrates is higher than the weekend..
Looked around the tank and there is no deadstock
Alkanity has picked up nicely with the triple buffer
But now ph is also going up slightly from 8.2. To 8.4
Phosphates unchanged. I will check the canister filter to make sure phosphates bag has good good circulation and is not clogged.

I am not sure about doing another 20% water change as i did on last week thursday. I think that is why the nitrates when done by40. But within three days nitrates are very high again...

I am not sure if a should continue with triple buffer as it seems to push up the ph which is now on the border of being too high

If i vinegar or glucose dose what dosage should i use? Feel uncertain about what is safe for my system.

. @Ferret. The new system at my house has now been running of three weeks. Previous owner said the tank ran for two years.

Inputs and comment please...
 
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Make sure you have a good skimmer before carbon dosing as excess bacteria produced by carbon dosing has to be pulled out of the water by the skimmer
 
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As 4age says make sure you have a good skimmer. I am not sure on the dosage per litre for the vinegar and glucose mix that you need for the tank. but I am sure if you Google you will find the picture scale. As per how to mix it's vinegar/glucose 75grams per 1L white vinegar. I would start off with a low dose and increase it daily but test your nitrates before each test.

Even though the tank has been running for 2 years previously you will still go through a mini cycle when you move. Happened to me recently. You don't quite get the amonia nitrite cycle over again especially if you dose things like seed or stability etc. But you do still get a spike in nitrates and often a small batch of diatoms.
 
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If it was me before starting to dose any form chemical i would rather look into something like Biocubes. Biocubes will take care of nitrates and phosphates. And im sure ive seen people that run them in cannister filter. Its not cheap but your worries will be something of the past. They work extremely well.
 
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Carbon dosing takes a long time before it will be effective. You have to up the dosage on a weekly basis until the nitrates starts to drop. This can take upto 3 months depending on tank size. There are cons with this method as well. Read up on it
 
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Thanks everyone. I am very cautious about dosing with vinegar. Will read up before considering the option.
I had a quick look at the bio cube. Will research but seems like a good choice.
Thanks for all the valuable info. U guys rock!
 
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FYI.. Sometimes canister filters can also push up nitrates coz detritus gets trapped in it.. You have to really clean them often.
 
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Agree, if you can ditch the canister filter and add a sump, do it. Has a lot of benefits

I say if you dont get rid of the source of nitrates you can dose carbon all you like, the cause of problem would still be there.
 
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Thanks for all the comments. Did not do any test last night.

Wanted to do a 20% change tonight and then measure nitrates tomorrow?

Question: i did a 20% water change last week thursday and a 10% on monday. Is it safe to do a 20% change tonight. Ph8,2 alkalinity12.5
Need some thoughts please...
 
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What should be the reason for lowering high nutrient levels as fast as possible? What is the emergency?


Nopox or dosing any other organic carbon supplement is a very bad idea when starting up a new tank. it prevents the installation of autotrophic carrying capacity.
If used, the daily carbon dose should be limited to the daily nitrogen overproduction at all times after the tank is cycled completely and this may take a few months. This will prevent most autotrophic carrying capacity will be replaced by growth.

Adding organic carbon supports high heterotrophic growth needing and using up ammonia-nitrogen. High heterotrophic growth will outcompete slow-growing autotrophic nitrifiers for ammonia-nitrogen and oxygen which means previously installed autotrophic carying capacity will be reduced or removed and replaced by heterotrophic growth, the production of bio-mass and protein. This system hasn't found a balance yet and will become dependable of daily dosing. Only good for the organic carbon provider.

Organic carbon based supplements need essential building materials to work! They have to be retrieved from the water. To reduce the same amount of ammonia +- 40x more building materials are needed. Ideal to lower the high nutrient levels fast, to lower the reading!? But in fact, not much is effectively removed.
How much nitrogen can be assimilated daily? How much Nopox may be added daily to keep it safe? How much bacterial bio-mass will be produced to assimilate 100ppm nitrate? Will 0,2 ppm phosphate be enough to support the growth needed? A lot of questions to ask, a lot of answers to give, before starting dosing organic carbon. Dosing carbon based on the nitrate level is never a good idea. ref: http://www.baharini.eu/baharini/doku.php?id=en:makazi:het_water:filtratie:vodka

Adding organic carbon does remove nothing from the system. The removal rate is dependable of the skimmer and is max +- 30% ref: http://www.baharini.eu/baharini/doku.php?id=en:makazi:het_water:filtratie:eiwitafschuimer If used as a food source +-75% of the nitrogen is released. The rest is hopefully 100% recycled and remineralized. And one may do it over.

Where do the nitrogen and phosphorus come from? From added protein?
Is the nutrient availability in balance? If in balance there is no emergency, if not in balance there should be no emergency as long enough phosphorus is available.
As a skimmer removes organics constantly but very selective and leaves most nitrogen behind, an unbalance in nutrient availability is created, in size also depending of the natural denitrification capacity which may be estimated to be +- 15% for a nitrifying bio-film.
If too much nitrogen, the balance can not be restored by an assimilation method as carbon supplements. Trying may cause coral bleaching due to phosphorus starvation.

A nitrogen unbalance can be corrected by using a bio-filter or adding for nitrogen modified F2 media in combination with a refuge. Or silencing the skimmer.

Be patient, add a refuge, harvest algae. Change water. There is no emergency!

For starting troubleshooting :
How much protein is added daily? ( food)
How much is the daily nitrate overproduction measured over at least a week's time? ( nitrate level increase)
Were bio-load and food added before so-called " live" rock was completely cycled?
May the presence of nitrate and phosphate be considered a normal evolution?
Was the nitrate content in balance with the other nutrients (before removing phosphorus)
What is phosphate stop? What does it contain?
What is in the canister filter? What is it used for?

The ideal would be to lower the nutrient level by harvesting algae until the phosphate level is reduced to an acceptable level. Then correct the nitrogen balance by removing nitrogen only. For small systems, this can be done by using nitrogen modified F2 media to grow algae. For big systems, a bio-filter can be used to remove the daily nitrogen overproduction.
It will take time as +- 250 gr wet algae must be harvested to remove 250mg nitrogen. The system contains +-3000 mg nitrogen, safely stored in +-12gr nitrate.

Sorry, I just came to the conclusion this is an old thread and the situation from a few months ago.
I hope all went well.

Anthias
 
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