Hi to all

Discussion in 'New Members' started by Tim S, 11 Jul 2009.

  1. Tim S

    Tim S

    Joined:
    11 Jul 2009
    Posts:
    430
    Likes Received:
    1
    Location:
    Cape Town
    My first thread and first of many things related to marines keeping. I have been reading your comments as a non member for some time in the hope of finding out what I needed to know but there seems to be such a vast amount of stuff out there you don't always find exactly what you want.
    I used to keep marines some 16 years ago when I was single, footloose and fancy free. I lived in PE and we used to snorkel and capture our fish and inverts of the coast from PE to Transkei. Then came the wife and kids and so went the tank when we move to CT. I have motivated myself to re-start but things are very diffirent in how it's done. I have a million questions. So if I can get some advice It would be greatly apprecieted.

    I have got the glass (10mm) for my tank all ready and want to put it together. Size 1500x650x750mm deep. I want to use black silicone but marine grade black is not common. Can I use any other type and cure for a longer period (say 4 weeks)?
    What is meant by "euro bracing? For this size tank, should I have the side panes passed the base or is it OK to place the sides ontop of the base pane of glass?

    I'll wait for some advice.


    Cheers

    Tim S
     
  2. AdS Guest




    to hide all adverts.
  3. Prodigy

    Prodigy

    Joined:
    4 May 2009
    Posts:
    1,107
    Likes Received:
    1
    Location:
    Slums Baby!!!
    Hey and welcome to MASA
    Im sure the guys in Cape Town will be able to help you out shortly
    Cheers
     
  4. Jaak

    Jaak

    Joined:
    2 Jun 2008
    Posts:
    2,421
    Likes Received:
    14
    Location:
    Cape Town
    Welcome to MASA!!
     
  5. keyaam

    keyaam

    Joined:
    28 Jul 2008
    Posts:
    2,502
    Likes Received:
    16
    Location:
    Cape Town
    Hey Tim

    Welcome

    Contact Den Braven for Black Marine Silicone.
     
  6. riyadhessa

    riyadhessa

    Joined:
    21 Nov 2007
    Posts:
    3,370
    Likes Received:
    9
    Location:
    Cape Town
    Welcome to MASA...
     
  7. mnd123

    mnd123

    Joined:
    5 Mar 2008
    Posts:
    1,753
    Likes Received:
    14
    Location:
    Fourways Gardens
    Welcome - thats a nice size tank

    Euro bracing are the strips along the top edge of the tank for additional support, instead of the cross braces.
     
  8. schaun

    schaun

    Joined:
    16 Oct 2008
    Posts:
    531
    Likes Received:
    3
    Location:
    Wonderboom,Pretoria
    Hi Tim. Welcome to MASA. As you know the best forum out there.
    What makes this forum better than others is the way people treat you.
    I have never seen anything ells than positive feedback from its members.
    Everyone always jump at a chance to help a fellow member.
    I think most of tanks built the side panels are positioned on the base panel.
    The problem with the side panels next to the base panel is, if they are too heavy
    They tend to sink into the Styrofoam. Building my new tank with the side panels
    Next to the base. But I think the safest bet for your tank will be if you put the sides on the base.
    But let’s hear from the other members, they have lots of experience.
    Good luck with your build.
     
  9. RUAN

    RUAN

    Joined:
    8 Jul 2008
    Posts:
    1,081
    Likes Received:
    3
    Location:
    Johannesburg
    masahello
     
  10. Tony

    Tony

    Joined:
    23 Aug 2008
    Posts:
    4,093
    Likes Received:
    68
    Location:
    Honeydew, Johannesburg
    welcome to MASA. Enjoy your stay. wow its my first post via mobile device
     
  11. Tobes

    Tobes Retired Moderator

    Joined:
    30 Nov 2007
    Posts:
    9,482
    Likes Received:
    118
    Location:
    A Beautiful place!
    Welcome to MASA Tim, hope you enjoy your stay with us. Eish, 16 years is a long time - things changed quite a lot in the marine glass box world :)
    You can read the links in my signature for a refresher :p as you have done marines before.
    Don't be shy to ask questions, we are here to help and have no financial gain unlike some petshops that might sell you outdated/wrong stuff.
    You are lucky, there are a lot of reefers in CPT and there is a first class petstore somewhere there who is a sponsor. The CPT reefers can point you in the right direction or have a look at the sponsor forum.
    If I where you I'd rather make the tank wider than higher. 750mm is deep and difficult to work in, you would also need strong lights if you wish to keep light loving corals. 600 - 650 is a good depth. Wider is good for aquascaping ;)
    Keep us updated :wave2:
     
  12. FransSny

    FransSny

    Joined:
    16 Oct 2008
    Posts:
    5,697
    Likes Received:
    67
    Location:
    Hermanus
    welcome Tim...good to have you aboard.

    Ask Bob (The Reefbuilder) about the silicone & stuff...they build awsome tanks

    Ask as much as you want ...people on this forum have LOTS of time to answer..actually i dont think anybody here has a real job ;)

    MOST of all enjoy !!
     
  13. Reef Maniac

    Reef Maniac MASA Contributor

    Joined:
    15 May 2007
    Posts:
    2,899
    Likes Received:
    112
    Location:
    Bloemfontein
    Hi Tim, and WELCOME to MASA. Much better to be a member than to just snoop around as a visitor :biggrin: :biggrin:

    10mm glass will be too thin for that tank height. You can play around with the Glass Thickness Calculator to get some idea of what you need.

    that is where the tank is fitted with a "rim" of (say) 75mm - 100 wide, running horizontally around the inside of the tank, top and bottom. This supports the glass against excessive bending, making it much safer. It also allows for a large opening over the length of the tank, thus allowing easy access to the inside of the tank, and unrestricted lighting of the tank.

    That would depend on how you plan on supporting the tank. If the tank is supported on a sturdy base (such as a metal stand with a plywood top, or better still a concrete slab), the side panes should rest on top of the bottom pane (as most glass tanks are constructed in South Africa). If the tank will only be supported on the outside perimeter of the tank (e.g. standing on only the metal frame of the stand), then it would be safer to have the side panes run past the bottom pane, with the bottom pane raised a few mm's above the bottom of the side panes. This is more the norm for acrylic tanks constructed in the USA. IF you decide to do it this way, then you MUST make sure that the bottom edge of the side panes are polished smooth, and at 90°, to ensure that there are no point loads on the glass.

    Whatever silicone you use, make sure that it does not contain any mildew inhibitors (as found in household "bath" and "shower" type silicone), as this will be toxic to the future tank inhabitants.

    Good luck with the build.

    Hennie
     
  14. Tim S

    Tim S Thread Starter

    Joined:
    11 Jul 2009
    Posts:
    430
    Likes Received:
    1
    Location:
    Cape Town
    Glass thickness questions

    Morning chaps, and thanks for the warm welcome from everybody. I now feel comfortable on the the method of constructing the sides ontop of the base versus against the base options. The issue of glass thickness appears to be a problem in my proposed tank size. According to the "glass calculator" my 10mm glass will be too thin by some margin. Does this calculator take cognasince of the bracing or not as I have seen similar sized tanks with this same glass?

    Cheers

    Tim
     
  15. riyadhessa

    riyadhessa

    Joined:
    21 Nov 2007
    Posts:
    3,370
    Likes Received:
    9
    Location:
    Cape Town
    Tim if you are interested in a second hand tank PM me, i will give you the number of one of my mates that want to sell a tank almost to your specfication...
     
  16. Tim S

    Tim S Thread Starter

    Joined:
    11 Jul 2009
    Posts:
    430
    Likes Received:
    1
    Location:
    Cape Town
    Hi Riyadhessa, I already have the glass all cut with bracing, drilled overflow and returns ready to put together. I'm just a little tentative as this is the biggest tank I will be building.

    Thanks for the help anyway.


    Tim
     
  17. riyadhessa

    riyadhessa

    Joined:
    21 Nov 2007
    Posts:
    3,370
    Likes Received:
    9
    Location:
    Cape Town
    Oh...okay then good luck with the build mate...
     
  18. Annoying

    Annoying

    Joined:
    14 Jun 2009
    Posts:
    2,107
    Likes Received:
    23
    Location:
    Port Elizabeth
    Welcome, WELcome, WELCOME!!!!
     
  19. Reef Maniac

    Reef Maniac MASA Contributor

    Joined:
    15 May 2007
    Posts:
    2,899
    Likes Received:
    112
    Location:
    Bloemfontein
    No, the calculator does not allow for any bracing. Having said that, it's prudent to consider the bracing as just that - bolts and braces :whistling:

    A general rule of thumb is that you can drop one size thickness if you have very good bracing, AND if the tank is in a low-risk area (i.e. no children running around, or playing ball, tank not in a "high pedestrian" area such as a passage, no "high-value" items such as computer, hi-fi or television in the same room (which will be damaged if the tank bursts...).

    Assuming the proposed water level to be 20mm below the rim of your tank (water level thus 730mm) the calculator recommends a glass thickness of 16mm for the sides, and 20mm for the bottom. With bracing you can take a chance and use 12mm glass for the sides, but is it really worth it? Remember that the cost of replacing a well-established tank (corals, fish, live rock...) of this size would be close to R50 000.00, if not more, and the cost of replacing your furniture, carpets, etc. could easily double this value. To paraphrase Dirty Harry: "How lucky do you feel?"

    Hennie
     
Recent Posts