Help With external overflow

Discussion in 'Anything DIY Related' started by williet, 16 Feb 2011.

  1. williet

    williet Look at the shiny LEDs!!!

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    Hi all

    I put this under the DIY section as I will be diy'ing this tank shortly with a nice cabinet.

    Ok Guys here is my dilemma.

    I have a 4ft tank I bought 2nd hand. The previous owner cut the oneside down about 2-4 cm and added and external overflow.

    See pic below.

    [​IMG]

    Now my question is. What can I do to get rid of this ??? I want to build a wooden cabinet at the bottom and a wooden cover at the top. But this external overflow looks rather daft.



    I thought of the following options

    1) Build new tank - Not so cool....
    2) build the side up with glass and drill a hole that runs down to the sump...


    Also on the lighting

    I have 2 whites 39w and 2 actinic 39w all 3ft

    I have another spare 39w ballast. Do I have a sale and get 54 watt ballasts with my new wooden tank hood ? Or do I just get more 39w whites and use the spare ballast ?

    Any suggestions ??? Please help


    My Tank Thread to give you and Idea of what it looks like in its whole...

    Suggestions are very welcome !!! :biggrin:
    My first 4ft Marine tank - Marine Aquariums of South Africa
     
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  3. Trev

    Trev

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    Well firstly previous owner should get a lesson in working with silicon before attempting another project.

    Your options are to replace the entire side panel and use your own idea on how to do the overflow or to redo what the previous owner attempted. But to be honest an external overflow box is by far the most convenient when it comes to maintenance.

    Trev
     
  4. williet

    williet Thread Starter Look at the shiny LEDs!!!

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    Hi trev

    Thanks for the advice. If I leave it, how would it be covered with the wooden top?
    Any suggestions?
     
  5. butcherman

    butcherman Moderator MASA Contributor

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    Im with trev replace the side panel and do an internal over folw. much easier....
     
  6. Trev

    Trev

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    Well the wooden top does not have to cover the overflow box, My 1.2 has a external oveflow box on the side which is not a viewing side ( another thing to consider ) and it is not covered by the hood works like a charm;)
     
  7. RiaanP

    RiaanP Moderator

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    Without big changes to the tank.

    What I would do is to put a broad plank up in front of the overflow, with a side door for access. Than on the left, I would put another plank same width up. To frame the disply. Also, on the left put a door, and put all the fish food and other small goodies there. Like a small cabinet. You got space open on both sides of the tank, so both sides doors opening backwards towards the wall.

    The width of the sides should then also be the height of the canopy, or canopy should be higher. Not "thinner" as to form a nice frame around the glass. And canopy can rest on these cabinet parts instead of the tank glass.

    But you need to up your sump, too small and will limit your stocking levels.

    Do you have Google SketchUp? If not, download it, install it, and start playing. I can also send you a quick design then of what I mean so you can start dreaming.
     
  8. williet

    williet Thread Starter Look at the shiny LEDs!!!

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    Hi guys
    Thanks for the wise advise!

    Riaan, I will get google sketchup. Just a question how big must my sump be and what is the best sump design you can recommend?

    Thanks all!!!!!
     
  9. maxisoft

    maxisoft

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    I have 4ft with an internal overflow, and I absolutely detest the fact that it takes over so much real estate. I do agree the silicone work sucks, but I'd go with RiaanP's suggestion and cover it up.... (I built my own sump and my silicone work sucks too - But its hidden in the cabinet below and out of line of sight...)

    As far as the lighting is concerned, I used 6 x 54w T5's and my 39w are used as a backup only...:thumbup:
     
  10. Tremayn

    Tremayn

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    that guy is almost as bad with silicone as me :p
     
  11. RiaanP

    RiaanP Moderator

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    looks like a standard Daro 1.2m tank

    [​IMG]

    simplest, quickest, cheapest option. Take a standard Daro 90L (3foot) tank.
    Use a standard 3 part sump, skimmer, DSB then return
    Put skimmer in and measure space needed. Silicone first partition in so that first chamber is just big enough for skimmer. Same for return, just big for return pump. Looks like a Reeftek TS1 skimmer you have, so first chamber of 170mm and return same size would give a middle chamber of around 540mm. Descend enough DSB for a 1.2. Do not place sump in the middle, but again off center towards the skimmer side. So that on return side you have space for plastic tub, for RO chamber.
    First glass partition should be 300mm to 310mm high, else you would drown your TS1, second partition should be 10mm lower than first. Should leave you with enough capacity for extra water when power goes out.

    Effort to do, buy 90L, buy 2 partitions, silicone them in, wash the playsand, put all in place. Done, where is my beer?


    If you want to go bigger, build yourself a sump
     
  12. williet

    williet Thread Starter Look at the shiny LEDs!!!

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    :peroni::peroni:
    Thanks for the advice Riaan! Btw what do I do with the live rock I currently have in my sump?

    Thanks so much for all your help!
    I am going to do it.
    :thumbup:
     
  13. RiaanP

    RiaanP Moderator

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    Move them upstairs.
     
  14. Trev

    Trev

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    I have moved my 1.2m tank to my shop as a display tank and took some pics for you so that you can nsee how the external overflow works, it realy is the best way

    Trev

    [​IMG][​IMG]
     
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