Help Needed : Cyano!?!?!

Discussion in 'Nuisance Algae' started by Ari, 6 Feb 2012.

  1. Ari

    Ari

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    Hey guys:thumbup:. Many of you probably don't even want to read this because you fed up of this topic. I'm really asking nicely, please read my story and give your opinion, advice or experience please :

    I've got a 300L display with 100L sump.

    2x Skimmers and 15cm DSB with cheato: A Dymax LS-20 (1200L/H) and A Reeftek TS-1 (1000L/H)

    4 x 54W T5: (not sure what bulbs to put in. Ive got 2 pure actinics, 2 coral blues, 1 x 10000K,1 x 12000K and 2 blue/whites.)-advice which one does best coral growth??

    Flow: 7000L/H pumps plus 3000L/H return

    Stock: 2x clowns, 4x blue chromises, 1x foxface, 1x baby zebra sailfin, 1x rock blenny, shrimp and CUC.

    Corals: rock of mushrooms :p

    A couple of months ago when I got back from the holidays, my tank was filled with cyano. So each week I followed MASA's advise. I cleaned my skimmer cup daily and the neck of course and did wet skimming, I did 70L water changes each week and I siphoned everything eventually out last week. There was nothing to be seen in my sump and display. Now again this week it's starting to come out on my sand and rocks, but not very fast.

    My water tests came out very good just salinity is 1.021 (not the problem obviously). I don't dose my tank at all.

    So reefers.... PLEASE HELP ME OUT!! I really want to start geting corals but the cyano just looks ugly. What else is there?? Anything I must put in my tank or add?? Will it come out even more if I put in the 12000K light bulb or doesnt it matter and what lighting wil be the best for corals not algae??

    Thanx so much in advance and everyone please comment. :)
     
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  3. Tony

    Tony

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    How long has your tank been running?

    How deep is your tank?

    Are you vodka dosing?

    Are you dosing bacteria?

    What temperature is your tank?

    What are your nitrate and phosphate readings?

    How long are your lights on for?
     
  4. raytone

    raytone Raytone

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    Flow is one of the problems, what lights are currently in your tank? Use seachem stability to boost your bacteria. Water changes and shorter light periods, reduce feeding. I personally think you need to get a more efficient skimmer like a ts2 or something.
     
  5. Ari

    Ari Thread Starter

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    - 11 months old
    - 50cm
    - No I'm not vodka dosing, stopped 6 months ago, didn't work for me.
    - No dosing what so ever. No bacteria nothing. Should I?
    - Temperature is between 26-28
    - Apparently the LFS owner said they are very good, undetectable. Remember I do 70L each week
    - My lights are on for 4- 5 hours. i had one big blackout for 3 days to get everything away and now its coming back.
     
  6. Ari

    Ari Thread Starter

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    I want to get another 3000l/H pump so in total have 10000 L/H running. at the moment have 2 x coral blue (reeftek), 1 blue/white bulb (which I want to replace with a pure actinic) and 1x pure actinic. I heard the pure actinic does zip to coral growth. Is my bacteria the problem?? I'll rather dose Seachem than Microbacter7. I've been doing water changes once mabye twice 70L a week and it's getting overboard expensive with the R/O and salt and my friend does 10L a week and his tank looks like a TOTM.:) I researched and asked the guys on masa, because I have a Dymax rated for 650L and a TS-1 rated for 400L. And my friend only runs his tank on TS-1...
     
  7. RiaanP

    RiaanP Moderator

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    What temperature is your tank. I got an outbreak. Did start dosing, but found that my filter feeders did not like it. Squirt especially, so I stopped.

    Weekly 10% water changes, and trying to keep my temperature at 25 (note - trying) seems to help as well. My displays are now clean. First DSB almost. Just a trace of it in the morning. But larger remote DSB have a nice thick red carpet in the mornings. Collect and take it out by hand.

    Biggest impact I think is just better water parameters by doing my 10% per week.

    Plus ensuring that I do not reach 27 again.
     
    Last edited: 6 Feb 2012
  8. RiaanP

    RiaanP Moderator

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    Running a 6 fan unit over my DSB.
    It works, but impact my RO top up
     
  9. mandarinman

    mandarinman

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    More than likely the cyano is forming where the nutrients are seeping out of sand and liverock. i would syphon the substrate each time i do a waterchange. this will help pull nutrients out of tank as a whole. and dose stability or prodibio. dont touch nitrobacter 7
     
  10. Mewik

    Mewik

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    Cyano that doesn't tend to clear up will generally be coming from dirt in the system. Quite possibly its getting trapped in/under rocks/ sand as Mandarinman said so try siphoning and moving your rocks and getting all the gunk out from under them.

    I am not sure about prodibio etc with dsb, the fact that you were away would make me think that your dsb has had some sort of crash, maybe due to high temps deep inside of the sand where temps usually stay cool or something. I would first try getting some live sand from a working dsb and seeding ur dsb with it to try get the bacteria to balance out naturally. I'd be a bit sceptical of the probiotics colonising the dsb with only their bacterias, so then constant dosing would have to continue after or chances are you'd be back at square one once the dosing stops.
     
  11. Ari

    Ari Thread Starter

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    My temp is sitting between 26-28 (room temperature) Ive taken out my heater because its just too hot. Mabye its my temp because my room does get hot. And I dont know how accurate is that red sea salinity needle thermometer. Mabye I should just get a bottle of stability or prodibio and then drop my temp :)
     
  12. Ari

    Ari Thread Starter

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    Could be because my display is quite packed with rocks just look at my system but thats from last year. So you saying I shouldnt be dosing stability or anthing? I'm scared if I move my rocks and stuff then the real demons will come out...
     
  13. Mewik

    Mewik

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    Well dosing anything is only going to be hiding the problem to be honest, ur going to have to sort the cause out at some point, be it bad flow/ badly positioned live rock etc. Dosing probiotics IMO, unless done from the start of a tank, should only be done to enhance systems that are already stable.
     
  14. RiaanP

    RiaanP Moderator

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    Prodibio should help as well. Especially the bacteria strain

    Higher temperatures do cause bigger outbreaks.

    And reseeding your DSB is a good thing. You need anyway to reseed it at least 3 times a year. Will have a lot better results.

    What is your location? Maybe add that in your info. Then a local experience reefer might be able to help you out.
     
  15. Tony

    Tony

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    As mentioned, try dropping your temperature. The higher your temperature the less O2 your water can hold which can aggravate the cyano. Some guys have had luck with putting an airstone in the sump but put this in the middle of the sump, otherwise you're going to have salt creep everywhere. Adding another powerhead to your tank will help as a poorly circulated tank tands to hold onto CO2 which cyano uses and releases as a byproduct much like plants do. Taking a powerhead and blasting your rocks and underneath them will help dislodge detritus and loosen the cyano.

    Now, look on the bright side, we owe cyanobacteria our very existence on this planet as they oxygenated the planet in it's infant stages
     
  16. RiaanP

    RiaanP Moderator

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    Not sure how closely related.

    Ever since my cayno outbreak. My cheato ball is struggling. Actually getting smaller and smaller.

    It seems that the cayno is outcompeting the cheato for nutrients.

    Anybody else noticed it, had similar experience?
     
  17. Mewik

    Mewik

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    I actually had something similar when I 1st dosed mb7. After a few days my xenia looked weak and my chaeto went rather mank and brown looking the same day I had first saw cyano appearing on the substrate. I removed the chaeto for a couple of days till the cyano died down and then popped the chaeto back in to my sump once it had cleared.

    I know mb7 should eventually kill both algaes off but there was def some evidence of cyano outcompeting the chaeto, I suspect if I hadn't removed the chaeto my problems would not have passed so quickly.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: 7 Feb 2012
  18. 2balive

    2balive

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    Cayno is one of those things that still baffles me in this hobby. I run a tank that is controlled within 1deg in terms of temp, feed acactly the same amount of food each day, do 15% water changes a week, ect. Have not seen cayno for months now and in the last week it is popping out again.

    Some observations I have made around it:

    - higher outside temp definitely seams to encourage it (even if the tank is controlled)
    - bacteria dosing helps, have not tried Special Blend yet, but find Stability has the most impact.
    - have noticed since I aggressively scrub phosphates out of the tank I have seen less of it.
    - never seen it in high flow areas, to push your flow by a factor of x20 will probable have the most impact, is the cheapest (and is good for your coral).

    I would be carefully to mess to much with your sandbeds, may be incidental but have noticed more cayno after my send bed gets desturbed (stupid power heads), think that if you kill off or reduce the biological stuff (criters and bacteria) in the sandbeds there's more food available for the cyano.

    Also seen a slowdown of my cheato whit cayno periods, experimenting with some cheato support additives, but nothing concrete to report yet.
     
  19. Tony

    Tony

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    I think the best way to control cyano is to control the amount of CO2 in the system which comes through proper flow and aeration. Yes nutrients do play a part but like a fire if you remove O2, heat or fuel from the equation the fire wont burn to use an analogy
     
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  20. Express Reef

    Express Reef

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    Since I got a chiller and my temp never goes over 26C my cyano is under controll, I run a airstone in the sump 24/7 and run my sump light in revers with my DT light... When I had cyano, everyone told me its due to too little flow, but I dont think it is the case due to the fact that I had 4 sunsun pumps, I even add 2 more to test if flow actualy will work and it didnt. I realy think it is due to high temps. Since my temp on my tank never go above 26C my cyano is gone:thumbup:

    use a airstone in the sump and sort out your temp. Use a small pipe and suck it out...

    worked for me
     
  21. Tony

    Tony

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    The lower temperature allows for more O2 in the water along with the airstone driving out excess CO2 and allowing more O2 in because of surface agitation. Too little flow does aggravate things but is not the only culprit as CO2 is found at the bottom of poorly circulated tanks where cyano is usually found. You probably found that your temperature was too high which allowed the cyano to flourish because of the subsequent suppresed O2 levels. The powerheads create more water movement which keeps everything nicely mixed but they wont introduce more O2 unless they are pointed up breaking the water's surface. You seem to have lowered your temperature and added the airstone with the same powerheads and your cyano is under control which is why cyano problems are less with reefers in winter as we battle to keep our tanks warm.

    Why do you run a reverse cycle. Do you have macroalgae in your sump?
     
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