Help Led Lighting & Drivers

Discussion in 'Lighting' started by BarryRoux, 23 Aug 2016.

  1. BarryRoux

    BarryRoux

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    Hi im busy building and designing my new lighting for an new setup but have some stupid questions regarding drivers and chips

    Im currently using 3w leds driven by an 12-24v driver which is rated for 350-400mA if Im seeing this correct the 3w led is rated for 600mA and 3.2-3.6v
    On my current system my chips are running at 3.2v at 280mA if I calculate the wattage P=V x I
    3.2x0.28=0.896 so thus my wattage is under 1w if i use 1w which is rated for 350mA the wattage is about
    the same

    So in these systems and led chips that we buy and pay more for 3w we cant get more than 1w out of them with an dimmable driver.

    Thus my question is it worth using 3w with an controller why not rather run an 10w at 70% ?

    Or are there other drivers available ?

    Also why do we get recommended to buy 3w which we get no value out of (except for the sale purpose)?

    To get the total value out of an 3w you have to run them with an resistor or an much more expensive driver which aren't controllable or dimmable?

    Please help me Im sure Im seeing this wrong
     
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  3. BarryRoux

    BarryRoux Thread Starter

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    Any help or advice?
     
  4. Vleis Visagie

    Vleis Visagie

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    @CW

    Advice?
     
  5. CW

    CW

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    Hi @BarryRoux
    Where dit yuou buy these leds?
    Did the seller sell you the drives, power supply and leds?

    Did they not advise on how many leds to connect.
    The steves leds i used for a other build was also 3w leds. And i had to wire them in serie.
    There drivers was also liike 12v 800ma or 1amp depending on the colour
     
  6. BarryRoux

    BarryRoux Thread Starter

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    I got them from an supplier that sells an diy build and installed as per their recommendations if i do use an different driver I will loose the dimming functionality . Even though the led is rated for 600mA the driver will only do 400mA max
     
  7. Frank

    Frank

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    There are lots of drivers out there and you need to match your LED selection with the right one. It seems to me that your supplier has it spot on. An LED rated at 600mA would run most efficiently and within specified limits at around 400mA. What a lot of people don't realize is that LED chip manufacturers specify Lumen output, lifespan etc at a much lower forward current than the maximum rated current. This is why hobbyists wonder why they have so many problems with LED fittings. IMO most aquarium LED fittings are tweaked to run too hot and we will never achieve the expected lifespans that are often quoted out there. But then again it is all about getting the most Lumen output in this addiction so we will continue to take a chance. :)
    The more sensible option of course is to stick with T5's!! :)
     
  8. BarryRoux

    BarryRoux Thread Starter

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    Thankyou @Frank It makes sense what you say. In my mind i just couldn't see the use of 3w if you can only run the 3w at the same spec as the 1w
     
  9. hotdog83

    hotdog83 Clone Fish

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    I would not recommend running 10w, as they are basically 10x1w chips arranged in a block, so the intensity you achieve at depth on your tank will be better if you run a 3w (even though spread might be less), even run at 400mA. Look at Cree 3w too, the higher spec ones are rated to run at 1A, so at 700mA you get a lot of brightness and a long life out of them. Did you get Bridgelux for this build?
     
  10. BarryRoux

    BarryRoux Thread Starter

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    Thanks @hotdog83 I managed to get some from overseas also EPI leds the idea I have is to just add the 1 & 3 w for color but 10w for coral growth. IMG-20160826-WA0002.jpg

    These are the fittings 1 10w per lamp holder

    IMG-20160826-WA0004.jpg

    and 3-4 10w in the middle
     
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