Have you tried UV in your system?

Could you please PM me price for a 450 litre system..
 
So take the biggest one:
7009
-
55
FA
P10 Twin

1100W Commercial
UV Steriliser
-
Floor Mounted

The required flow rate is 660 l/h --- So you need water to be flowing through this at 660l/h to be effective correct?
 
So take the biggest one:
7009
-
55
FA
P10 Twin

1100W Commercial
UV Steriliser
-
Floor Mounted

The required flow rate is 660 l/h --- So you need water to be flowing through this at 660l/h to be effective correct?

yes the water leaving unit must be 660L/h
 
to be honest i never worry about my return flow rate unless you have a DSB
thats 4.5 times per hour, seems good, unless you run the UV on a split return and tap off 660L/h line there by leaving the return at normal rate
 
@carlosdeandrade

Please point us to the site/book you used to back your information regarding the use of UV lights, it would be a really interesting read for me if you could help out.

According to a number of Sources: UV light kills copepods, bacteria (good and bad), and algae

How is that beneficial to a reef tank?
 
thanks @dallasg

Not much reference to Salt Water it would seem, however, I think the Nitrogen Cycle would be somewhat similar within the freshwater setup as saltwater, possibly just different strains of bacteria? My concern is that beneficial bacteria can also be "zapped", or is the general consensus regarding having a UV setup on older tanks where the bacteria(good/bad) has already established itself within the confines of the before or after the UV filter.
 
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But the bacteria we want aren't waterborn, so the bacteria that is free swimming I don't want. As for pods, win some loose some, I loose plenty pods to my filter socks, skimmer, carx etc, they never run out, if they do you have bigger problems than uv.

A lot of items in this hobby are not needed, skimmers, water changes etc but a weapon in your arsenal against possible bacteria, viruses, and parasites makes me feel better.

I will post a better link when by my pc.
 
Fair enough then, good discussion, so this filtration would only be suited for older tanks as when you put new rock in a new tank you pop it in the display as well as in the sump area, you'd then have to seed not only the display LR but the sump LR as well?

I can't say I've ever seen any UV setup on say an addy tank or even yours in the past, is this old tech now becoming of age?
 
I don't use a tmc but have had ultra zap uv for years, I would say the benefits are better understood.

A nice added benefit is increased orp, there are many things in this hobby I have seen over 20yrs that keep coming back, maybe it's fashionable or trendy, but science is science :) would I run my trickle filter and fsb again, yes when space allows.

Infact i am converting my Beckett nozzle skimmer to lime wood air stones , but don't get me started on designer skimmers :)
 
I'm not home at the moment. Dal. Please check the threads I started about TMC. There is a link there.
 
there are guidelines on this pdf of TMC
http://images.tropicalmarinecentre.co.uk/documents/350.pdf

FLOW RATES for V2ecton
Do not exceed the maximum flow rates as this will considerably reduce the
efficiency of the unit.
V2ecton 200: For aquariums up to 200 litres/50 imp gal/60 US gal
Maximum flow/hr: 680 litres/150 imp gal/180 US gal

V2ecton 300: For aquariums up to 300 litres/65 imp gal/80 US gal
Maximum flow/hr: 960 litres/215 imp gal/255 US gal

V2ecton 400: For aquariums up to 400 litres/90 imp gal/110 US gal
Maximum flow/hr: 1300 litres/290 imp gal/350 US gal

V2ecton 600: For aquariums up to 600 litres/130 imp gal/160 US gal
Maximum flow/hr: 1900 litres/420 imp gal/505 US gal

what guidelines or more specific info is needed?
 
Are these globes quarts crystal glass?

Dallas can you please give us a comparison between the various globes used. The UV sterilizer design is one thing but the globe used is another.
 
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yes crystal sleeve
i use philips lamps
 
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