Hadiosbourne's LED Build....

Discussion in 'Lighting' started by hadiosbourne, 3 Aug 2012.

  1. hadiosbourne

    hadiosbourne

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    Hey Guys,
    I finally managed to get my LEDs running,
    And as i promised, i'll start a step by step detailed plan of how i did it,
    I did many trial and errors, make sure you don't make those mistakes!

    First here are the list of additional tools you need for the build:
    1. Solder iron

    2. Multimeter ( Make sure it has 10A mark and Diode/continuity functionality )

    3. Thermal grease if you are using screws (if you didn't order like me) i ordered thermal fusion 400

    4. Project box for Typhon ( i bought one from ZakSpeed, and it was perfect for me build, the size was 148x90x50


    5. Screw drivers

    6. Drill (if your heatsink is not driller )

    7.Drill bit 2.5mm (buy 5-6 you'll need it!! )

    7. screws

    8. 3 x RCA sockets


    9. 1 x DC socket

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: 3 Aug 2012
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  3. carlosdeandrade

    carlosdeandrade

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  4. hadiosbourne

    hadiosbourne Thread Starter

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    Before even thinking of touching your LEDs you have to draw a plan of what you want to do :



    [​IMG]

    Plan exactly where goes which color, also plan the +s and -s
    Always remember + from one LED goes to the - on the other LED in the string
    Also you have to plan the strings and drivers, it makes it much easier when you want to start soldering


    Here is the detail of my Build:

    14 x royal blue on Driver 1 48P set on 1200mA

    13 x Cool White on Driver 2 48P set on 1100mA

    4x UV + 3x Cyan + 3x Red + 2 Royal Blue on Driver 3 48P set on 700mA


    And the Typhon Controller
     
    Last edited: 3 Aug 2012
  5. butcherman

    butcherman Moderator MASA Contributor

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    Looking forward to this build :thumbup:
     
  6. zak

    zak

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    Word of advice (unless you have a decent soldering iron), try to solder the connecting wires before mounting the star boards onto the heat sink. It becomes difficult to solder after you've mounted it, as heat from the soldering iron quickly dissipates into the heatsink..
     
  7. butcherman

    butcherman Moderator MASA Contributor

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    I dissagree, I found it easiler to solder the wires after sticking them down. i bought a cheap soldering iron with a thin tip from builders 75W i think. But it does require a steady hand. also i give the wires i am using an S-bend to alow more play in the wire once you are soldering.

    But I know manic soldered them befor hand so both methods will work,
    its just a matter of prefrence.

    For me, a loose led, a loose wire and a soldering iron and solder seems like alot to keep steady if they arent stuck down, Iwas thinking, i am going to need to grow a few extra hands!
     
  8. zak

    zak

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    I guess my thermal coductivity is better than yours :tt2: I tried soldering last night and it was impossible!! This with a cheapo 60 watt iron. Im bringing out the big guns today..
     
  9. rakabos

    rakabos

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    Ive always found that when soldering... a third hand would have been freaking AWESOME
     
  10. hadiosbourne

    hadiosbourne Thread Starter

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    Here is the better way RapidLED suggested, Thinning the wires and LEDs before starting the final attachment ,and it was the easiest soldering i've ever done!!
    Right side is the thinned and left side unthinned


    [​IMG]




    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: 3 Aug 2012
  11. Rory

    Rory Admin MASA Contributor

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    It seems you get what you pay for :tt2:
     
  12. hadiosbourne

    hadiosbourne Thread Starter

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    I've received my Heatsink last week from overseas and costed me ZERO :) a friend of mine made it in his factory its very similar to what rapid sells, i got the spec from them, its a bit big for my hood but i managed to fit it in, thanks to my wife for bringing it with



    [​IMG]

    I've driller this heatsink in order to use screws, and it was very easy to do.
    I've applied the same design onto the heatsink and put one LED on to each block to specify where the wholes should go
     
  13. hadiosbourne

    hadiosbourne Thread Starter

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    Make 100% sure that you'll put a sign on were you want to drill before drilling, otherwise the drill is going to slip and mess up the surface, i used a wood bit to do so, the heatsink is very soft, its very easy to put sign on it.
    [​IMG]
     
  14. hadiosbourne

    hadiosbourne Thread Starter

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    For drilling i used 2.5 mm bit with 3mm screw, and it fits perfectly, dont go smaller on the bit, you'll battle to screw .



    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: 3 Aug 2012
  15. butcherman

    butcherman Moderator MASA Contributor

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    not my fault you cant solder :p
     
  16. butcherman

    butcherman Moderator MASA Contributor

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    I tried to teach people at the last meet :whistling:

    [​IMG]

    Some where better than others :tt2:
     
  17. Gary Roebuck

    Gary Roebuck

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    sorry to jump in here... what colour temp r u getting out of the led's u used?
     
  18. hadiosbourne

    hadiosbourne Thread Starter

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    Here is the picture of First LED screws Perfectly.

    [​IMG]
     
  19. hadiosbourne

    hadiosbourne Thread Starter

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    And the drilled heatsink according to the plan.

    [​IMG]
     
  20. hadiosbourne

    hadiosbourne Thread Starter

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    Speak English Dude :p
    I'm not sure what color temp they have, i suppose you can get it from the LED specifiaction Map??
     
  21. hadiosbourne

    hadiosbourne Thread Starter

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    After drilling the heatsink, I've screwed the LEDs to the heatsink , i used thermal fusion 400.


    [​IMG]


    Just put a little amount of thermal on each LED and then stick them to the heatsink ,
    Make sure the screws are NOT too tight,

    [​IMG]
     
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