Good news

Discussion in 'Nano Tanks' started by Dian6430, 12 Jul 2013.

  1. Dian6430

    Dian6430

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    So i bought a tank with the idea of a pico. Made wrong calculations and thought it was a 10litre tank. When i got it and measured it myself, i saw that it acrually was 25 litre. My thread in pico you can go and have a look but now i need advise about a 25L nano tank and not a 10 litre pico tank. Haha its good news because it will be a bit easier to keep because of more water. So any ideas, tips and advise regarding cycling, stocking tips etc would be nice!
     
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  3. Dian6430

    Dian6430 Thread Starter

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    This is the tank at the moment. What would you suggest for the 1,2,3 chamber?

    image.jpg
     
  4. Dian6430

    Dian6430 Thread Starter

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    Better image of the tank. Still need to know how you know if the rock is live rock? As i got it with the tank and the seller wasnt sure.

    image.jpg
     
  5. shan

    shan

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    Looks like you got a skimz ib20. Very nice tanks, I know as I have one running a full ADA planted setup.

    These are just as difficult as a 10lt and your biggest problem will be keeping your salinity stable as the evaporation is high and you can go from 1.025 in the morning to 1.026 that very same evening to 1.027 the next morning. So top ups are very important. Here I got a 2lt coke bottle turned upside down over the return chamber with some tubing coming out the cap and a g-clamp to restrict flow to one drop every 2 or 3 seconds and this is my auto top off. Remember to make an air hole on the bottom.

    For your chambers, first chamber is filter floss and heater, 2nd is phosban, purigen, carbon and orca cubes if you want, third is your return and top off. You want your heater in the first as that will always be full of water yet your third could empty half way or more if something happens

    Watch your acrylic, it scratches easy. When wiping, make sure you do not pick up some sand.

    Enjoy, you have a nice tank
     
  6. Bendor

    Bendor

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  7. Dian6430

    Dian6430 Thread Starter

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    Thanks @shan. Think ill also do the coke bottle. I have a lot of time so can give the tank alot of attention. Can you please tell me how i know if rock is live rock or not as i got the rock with the tank. Ill keep that in mind when i clean the tank. Any ither advise would be appreciated!
     
    Last edited by a moderator: 26 Nov 2015
  8. Bendor

    Bendor

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    Live rock is any rock that has been in an active marine aquarium for more than 6 weeks. Enough time for bacteria to colonise the rock and help with breakdown of ammonia to nitrite to nitrate.

    Live rock that has been out of the water for more than a day, washed in tap water, washed in RO water or heated up/cooled down in the boot of your car is now dead live rock that needs to be cured for about 6 weeks. This will allow new bacteria colonies to form and the "dead to be eaten". Then it's live rock again.

    If the rock has never been in an aquarium or the sea and is man made it is base rock. This doesn't require any curing but will also need 6 weeks an aquarium or similarly controlled salt water bucket with heater, pump etc. to become live rock as above.

    Then you also have to look at the quality of your rock. This relates mainly porosity, surface area and actual composition. The lighter, more porous the better.
     
    Last edited: 13 Jul 2013
  9. Dian6430

    Dian6430 Thread Starter

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    Okey then this will be good rock. So to get the zoas, mushrooms and other corals i want ill have to get frags of them correct? Do you also put them in after the cycle completes?
     
  10. Dian6430

    Dian6430 Thread Starter

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    Now good news is bad news. Due to someone that complained about my tanks i have to shut down one and since the marine one has just been set up it has to go so im selling it if anyone is interested. Will post in hardware for sale forum :(
     
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