Glass Question

Discussion in 'New Members' started by jumboswart, 8 Apr 2010.

  1. jumboswart

    jumboswart

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    Obviously reading the thread on the curved glass aquariums that crack, I have decided to do a DIY cube 600x600x600. My question is if I go for starfire glass from Rene Turck does it have to be toughned if it is 10mm, or can it just be float glass?
     
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  3. leslie hempel

    leslie hempel Moderator MASA Contributor

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    Hi jumbo

    normal float glass (starfire or other in 10mm) is suffiecient, for a tank of that size.. please share more of your ideas and plans with us..
     
  4. mariusmeyer

    mariusmeyer

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    If I recall, you can not drill toughened glass.
     
  5. lIghty

    lIghty

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    Isn't toughened a NO NO for fish tanks?
     
  6. Tobes

    Tobes Retired Moderator

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    I had same size one that was 8mm glass (rimless). 10mm is more than safe.
     
  7. jumboswart

    jumboswart Thread Starter

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    Some ideas so far, but will take it slow.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    Some equipment that I am thinking of:
    TS1 skimmer
    Aqualution LED lighting

    [​IMG][​IMG]

    - High power 5.8W LED light with excellent penetration depth. Our LED light can reach a depth of 1 meter. This is unlike general low power LED, which only has 1W or 3W output. This lighting fixture is for serious reef tank hobbyist.
    - We use high quality 90 degree optic to deliver high PAR value deep into your tank
    - Our LED system consists of 3 types of lights, white light, blue light and full RGB light. Each mode can be controlled by timer separately.
    - The mixture of 14000k Blue and 5000K white light emit natural lights for both coral type: SPS and LPS.
    - Our LED system has simple compact design. There is no fancy electric control that can be difficult to repair in the future. All you need is plugging it into a timer and you can control all 3 lights separately.
    - Our LED system is built to top quality. The exterior is powder coated. You have 4 choice of color, red yellow, white and black.
    - Our LED system has two units of thermo activated fans. Each unit consists of 2 dual ball bearing fans with quiet operation. If once unit failed, the second one will start. Fan only activate when LED reaches high temperature.
    - The back of LED light has integrated aluminum radiator.
    - Our LED system has professional power supply which is CE certified.
    We use stainless reflector, stainless screw and a protective cover to prevent corrosion to the light fixture.

    Dimension

    63cm x 26cm x 5.5cm

    Light Simulation

    260W HQI

    Total Power Consumption

    120W

    Input Voltage

    110V/220V

    Recommend Max Depth

    120cm

    Weight

    5.6kg

    Fan

    2 sets x 2 units, 4 thermo activated fans total

    LED Configuration

    4 Blue LED 5.8W 470nm, 12 White LED 5.8W, 12 Full spectrum RGB LED

    Lighting Mode

    Mode A - Daylight 6700K, Mode B 11000K, Mode C Lunar Mode 14000K

    Accessories

    Bracket included, Hanger optional
     
  8. lIghty

    lIghty

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    Looks ok, Only thing I would change is the clearance for the holes near the side, 50mm might be a bit close?

    Have you tried Google sketch for doing your design, its a free CAD program.
     
  9. neo

    neo

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    some suggestions from me.
    Here's a pic of a stand from some-one on this forum roughly what you want to do.
    [​IMG]
    left side in pic is electrical and faces outward so electrics is shielded from moisture etc.

    - make the frame 50mm sq tube.
    - add some adjustable feet.
    - are you going to use wood between the stand and tank? then remove all that cross-bracing in your top-view and only keep one centre brace, if tank is going to be directly on stand with no wood inbetween then keep the braces you have.
    - BEFORE drilling the holes, check what fittings you going to use and then decide the hole diameter.
    - from top view, make the stand 600x700, but keep the tank 600x600, use the extra 100 to hide the pipes by biulding a box behind the tank which forms part of your cabinet.
    - think and design the cabinet/carpentry as well before building the stand so you can make provision for fastning of wood, door, drilling of holes etc.
    - galvinize or powder coat
     
  10. jumboswart

    jumboswart Thread Starter

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    Thanks will give it a try.:biggrin:
     
  11. RiaanP

    RiaanP Moderator

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    When you want to buy the glass, get a quote from Rene Turck and from Idol Marine (Adriaan). Idol Marine also order the glass from Rene Turck, but it is for some obscure reason a lot cheaper buying the same glass from Idol Marine than directly from Rene Turck. That happened to me.
     
  12. jumboswart

    jumboswart Thread Starter

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    The quote from Rene Turck for the 60x60x60 cube and the 45x45x45 cube(for my son) was R2932.17 so I wll definately ask Idol Marine for a quote when I go there tomorrow to have a look see and maybe buy something:thumbup:
     
  13. jumboswart

    jumboswart Thread Starter

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    Ok will make it 50x50and add adjustable feet
    The whole stand even the electrical compartment will made from steel then drilled and finaly powder coated, then marine plywood used for enclosure and doors
     
  14. neo

    neo

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    no, dont drill and powder coat, if you want to powder coat you have to close all holes with body putty, weld 'ears' from solid flat iron with holes then powder coat.
    powder coating only covers outside, moist air will enter holes and tubing will rust from inside.
     
  15. neo

    neo

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    another thing, marineply very expensive, but if you can then go for it.....
    my 100x65x60 tank cost me R3k glass and build labour included
     
  16. jumboswart

    jumboswart Thread Starter

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    When you say weld ears, what do you mean ? Sorry not very mechanicaly inclined that is why I am going to have to find someone to help me with this.
     
  17. neo

    neo

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    weld a small piece of flat iron onto the tubing at the points where you need mounting points for your wood, drill a hole in this flat iron instead of the tubing, take into account the thickness of the powder coating, i.e. if you want to use 5mm screws dont drill a 5mm hole coase the powder coating will make it say 4mm hole and the screw wont fit.
     
  18. jumboswart

    jumboswart Thread Starter

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    Ok so I went to Idol Marine today and they are going to quote me on a 600x600x600 rimless cube with sump and plumbing. I would like to know if there is anybody in the Norwood vacinity that would be able to help me build the stand?
     
  19. jumboswart

    jumboswart Thread Starter

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    Another idea for the stand
    1500mm x 1000mm
    [​IMG]
    the section on the right will be for future upgrades ie chiller, calcium reactor, q tank, etc.
    Any comments
     
  20. neo

    neo

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    i would make the add-on a seperate stand and add it later when necessary.
    Keep the cube stand the size of the cube (with possible 100mm extension to rear) for a neat and clean look, like the cubes you saw at idol.
     
  21. jumboswart

    jumboswart Thread Starter

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    Going to put my UPS in the second stand so will be doing both together.
     
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