Fuge questions

Discussion in 'New Members' started by Tim S, 12 Jul 2009.

  1. Tim S

    Tim S

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    Hi all,

    I need some confirmation that I'm on the right track with my fuge. It started out as a drip filter and then while gathering info found this to be "out dated". The compartments measure in length as follows ; 300mm (sump for skimmer), baffle, 600mm (DSB); 120mm (for LR); 250mm (return sump). The total length is 1350, width is 350mm and glass height is 400mm.

    I've added a pic but dont' now if it will show or where (yes i'm a newbie)

    The compartment for LR, yes or no?

    I also need to know more about LR. Being from CT can one "harvest" from the ocean or is this taboo?

    Your comments appreciated


    Cheers

    Tim
     
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  3. Warr7207

    Warr7207

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    Firstly LR in Cape Town, won't do the job, regardless if it is legal or not.

    You want very porous rock, that will encourage loads of bacteria growth. You will found the rock in CPT to be very dense.

    A compartment for a DSB or LR compartment is a must. both is better.

    Think of where you could grow macro algae and/or algae scrubber

    Need to see your pics to get a better idea.

    Click the link below for info on uploading pics in a thread.

    How to post pictures using the Image Uploader - Forum Help
     
  4. Reef Maniac

    Reef Maniac MASA Contributor

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    Warr is right - "live rock" originates from coral heads which have broken off the reef. Being of coral origin, the consist mostly of calcium carbonate, and are extremely porous, allowing water to move slowly into the interior of the rock, where bacteria will break down the ammonia / nitrite / nitrate in the water. The rock from Cape Town will be either sandstone or basalt, if memory serves. Both types are too dense, and will not allow the biological filtration to take place.

    Hennie
     
  5. Tim S

    Tim S Thread Starter

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    Thanks chaps, you know your stuff.

    Tim
     
  6. Travis1

    Travis1 (wilsontravy)

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    masahello
     
  7. riyadhessa

    riyadhessa

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    Tim Welcome to MASA
     
  8. Tim S

    Tim S Thread Starter

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    Hi

    This is my refugium. The DSB dimentions will be 600mm long by 350mm wide by 100mm thick. Could you elaborate more on a macro algea srubber. Are you refering to a compartment with "Calearpa" growing in it? If so, would this need lighting?

    Thanks
    Tim
    [​IMG]
     
  9. RUAN

    RUAN

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    looks good and welcome
     
  10. viper357

    viper357 Admin MASA Contributor

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    Hi Tim, yes, if you are going to have Caulerpa or preferably Chaeto then it will need lighting, although not as intense as your display tank lighting.
     
  11. chikaboo

    chikaboo

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    OK firstly welcome tim to MASA - sorry to burst your bubble - but guys this pics looks strange to me. why are the internal baffles so short - how will the dsb "stand" 100mm high when there's nothing to support it! Also should the LR compartment not be before the DSB so as to trap the bigger particles?
     
  12. Reef Maniac

    Reef Maniac MASA Contributor

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    I agree with Chikaboo, the sump layout is not 100% correct.

    If the short internal baffles are 100mm high, then the sand between them would be 100mm deep. The problem, I think, will be that the water flowing over the sand bed (even if the surface is quite a bit higher) will tend to suck over the baffle. I would suggest that you increase the "short" baffles to at least 200mm in height, and then just add the sand to the 100mm mark, leaving a zone of calm water directly above the sand bed.

    I would also advise you to drop the height of the "high" baffle on the return pump side, leaving at least 25mm "free bore" between the top of this baffle and the rim of the tank. If something blocks the space between the "over - under" baffles, the water level will raise to the level of the top of this shortened "high" baffle, and then flow over it into the return-pump chamber, rather than over the rim of the sump (flooding the house).

    Hennie
     
  13. Neil H

    Neil H Moderator MASA Contributor

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    just to add to what the guys have said already .....

    i would make your DSB a little deeper.... in the order of 150mm

    the chaeto can be on top of the DSB a normal 6500K energy saving globe will make it grow like mad ...
     
  14. Tim S

    Tim S Thread Starter

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    Greetings again,

    The comments made to increase the baffels which hold the sand to say 200mm sound good and easy enough to do. The issue regarding the live rock in the sump is still unclear o me. What is the benfit of adding live rock to the sump and not just put it in the display tank instead? Another issue which concerns me is the rate at which the water flows through the sump. This is obviously directly related to the size of your return pump. If one aims at circulating your tanks volume 20-30 times per hour (most ideal), is there any rule of thumb / limit to what proportion should be running throu the sump? My display tank has a volume of 600 litres and the sump holds 200 - 250 litres depending on how full I make it. The owner of one of our sponcers suggests a return pump which can deliver between 5000 to 8000 l per hour. Another "salesman" suggested a 12 000 litre per hour pump. This looks a bit too big. Could someone comment on the best solution on the pump size relative to my system please. I want to purchase one this week but want a second opinion on size before I do.

    Cheers
    Tim
     
  15. Reef Maniac

    Reef Maniac MASA Contributor

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    Flow through the sump should be rather limited - say 1-2 times what your skimmer is rated for.

    The only use of LR in the sump is to allow for the transfer of "goggas" from the rock to the sand. So, after a month or two, you can move the LR back up to the display tank. Obviously, the LR will filter the water wherever they are, be it in the DT or sump, and if you have additional LR in the sump (over and above what you can fit into the DT) it will increase the filtration capacity.

    Hennie
     
  16. Tobes

    Tobes Retired Moderator

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    You need good random flow INSIDE the tank and slow flow from sump to tank and back. Flow inside the tank can be 30 to 60 times tank volume and the flow through the sump only 3 to 5 times. A 3000l/h or 4000l/h should be sufficient. The reason is so that your skimmer and DSB have more ''time'' to do their magic.
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  17. RiaanP

    RiaanP Moderator

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    Hello Tim.

    I will remove all the short pieces.
    I will make tall glass sections both between 250 to 300 with water going over.
    With no auto topup, last chamber needs to be bigger. With auto topup it can be smaller. But you can also use full area over DSB to cater for water evaporation. Then last chamber can be a lot smaller. Area over DSB will then be longer than 750. And there is no way that microbubbles from the skimmer can reach the return pump
     
  18. Tim S

    Tim S Thread Starter

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    Hi all. YEEEHHAAA!!! My tank is running today. Filled it with no problems at all. My heart was pounding when the water level got close to the top (greatest pressure), I was so nervous even my wife noticed it from a distance. I collected live sand from the Strand and decided not to use it as I unwittingly colected it close to a stormwater pipe discharging into the sea. I then collected from Melkbos and could see the diffirence in the life it had in it. The sand is very fine, so fine in fact that you could make a 'mud' ball with it and it would not lose shape. I hope it's not too fine. I am really pleased and want to thank you guys for the advice all along so far.

    Thanks,

    Tim
     
  19. jacquesb

    jacquesb Retired Moderator

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    Congratulations Tim! Great show! At last hey! ;)

    Nah! That sand at Melkbos is GREAT! It would/should make an awesome DSB! Where are the pics? Please?
     
  20. riyadhessa

    riyadhessa

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    Tim that is awesome...cant wait to see the pics...;)
     
  21. Reef Maniac

    Reef Maniac MASA Contributor

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    :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:
     
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