Fishcrazy did an upgrade

Discussion in 'New Members' started by Fishcrazy, 4 Nov 2014.

  1. Fishcrazy

    Fishcrazy

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    Hi
    I'm new to the forum and cant wait to read up on all the advice and knowledge from you all!

    I've upgraded over the weekend form a 32L tank to a 205L tank. Still running both. I've had my small 32L tank from January 2014 to see if I can manage a marine tank. I've been doing tropical for the past 27 years.:m03:

    My tank is 910*325*500mm 3 sides viewable, the stand is high with everything else under it. Sump/refugium is 60L with a DSB and bio-cubes. Protein skimmer is homemade. The return is via a 25mm pipe on a 3000L pump, with a 25mm drain pipe. The lighting is 2 (1 white + 1 blue) marine glow lights suspended about 12cm above the tank in the canopy. I also have a home made phosphate/carbon reactor. I will take photo's and post soon.

    All the fish, Hammer coral, Long tenticale anemone and Magnificent anemone is in. Oh I forgot to say I bought the tank over from a friend.

    Now regarding the lights.... how long must it be on? And must both lights be on at the same time?

    My NO3 is high and would like to do the Vodka dosing thing. Must I start with 1ml or 2ml a day for the first 3 days?

    Thanks for all the help!
     
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  3. viper357

    viper357 Admin MASA Contributor

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    Welcome to the forum. :)

    Generally lights are kept on between 8 and 12 hours a day.

    Are those T8 lights? I'm afraid you're going to need more and stronger lights for the anemone's to flourish. I would recommend at least 4 good quality T5 lights. :)
     
  4. RiaanP

    RiaanP Moderator

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    Hello and welcome

    So your display before displacement holds about 140L. Doubt if that is big enough for both those anemones, unless you run carbon.
     
  5. Fishcrazy

    Fishcrazy Thread Starter

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    I'm not sure, I think T8. I will look tonight. The tank ran 3 years, before me with the anemone's in on the same lights.
     
  6. viper357

    viper357 Admin MASA Contributor

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    Cool :thumbup:
     
  7. 4age

    4age

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    I wouldn't recommend vodka dosing if you still new at keeping marines..you need to understand the tank and get things stable 1st..plus I see you already using bio cubes which does the same thing. what are your current parameters..ie calcium levels kh nitrates etc
     
  8. Fishcrazy

    Fishcrazy Thread Starter

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    The is pH 8.2, Ca 470, PO4 0.1, NH3 and NH4 0.02, NO3 50.
     
  9. TaahirS

    TaahirS MASA Contributor

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  10. Fishcrazy

    Fishcrazy Thread Starter

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    Yes, we took all the old water from the other tank, fish, live rock and coral. I've added 80L of saltwater. So basically I carried 120L of "old" water over.
     
  11. TaahirS

    TaahirS MASA Contributor

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  12. weezle

    weezle

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    Howzit bud, welcome
    I would recomend buying new globes seeing as the tank ran for 3years with those globes the globes weather
    They are T8 or T5 will not be putting out the right amount of light.
    I'm interested to see those DIY reactors of yours as I am also in the process of constructing one of my own
    And I'm looking for design ideas
    Good luck with the tank
     
  13. Fishcrazy

    Fishcrazy Thread Starter

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    Unfortunately I can only fit T8 bulbs. I've done some research and found out that the Marine-Glo (actinic blue) is a 18000k. HAGEN recommend to combine it with the Power-Glo (clear light) also 18000k. Must I buy one of each? I'm also going to install a reflector or just make one out of foil. There is also one by the name of Coralife. What is the recommended kelvin for my tank?

    I will post photo's soon.
     
  14. Fishcrazy

    Fishcrazy Thread Starter

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    Please find photo's in my album.
     
  15. Fishcrazy

    Fishcrazy Thread Starter

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    Ok. So the tank is running for 2 weeks now. On week 1 the parameters were: pH 8.2, Ca 470, PO4 0.1, NH3 and NH4 0.02, NO3 50. After week 2 and 2 water changes my parameters is: pH 8.4, Ca 380, PO4 0.1, NH3 and NH4 0, NO3 5.

    Now regarding my phosphate/carbon reactor. How much do I need? and how often must it be replaced. I'm going to take the carbon out of my power head, because it is a hassle getting to it and removing it. It is allot easier removing and replacing media from the reactor in the sump.

    Also I've decided to buy a pair of T5's and run it with my T8's. Then later I will upgrade the T8's to T5's.

    Another funny thing happened last night..... I was staring at the tank and then suddenly it started overflowing. Could it be that the outlet had a air bubble in? I did bleed it, but are struggling to get rid of the bubble. Any suggestion.... please...

    Thank you
     
  16. RiaanP

    RiaanP Moderator

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    photo of the outlet would help. But it does sound like your outlet siphon did break.
     
  17. Fishcrazy

    Fishcrazy Thread Starter

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    Siphon break problem (overflow)

    How can I fix it?

    I've attached my outlet design.

    Siphon drain design.png

    PVC Overflow design.jpg
     
  18. JJF

    JJF

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    I would be keen to see if you can find the solution to this problem. I tried the same design on my tropical tank early this year and had the same problem. I first suspected a leak in my plumbing, so I rebuilt the whole thing, only to get the same result.

    I came to the conclusion that tiny air bubbles get sucked in over time (1-2 weeks) and eventually they add up to a point where the air pocket blocks the overflow. But this was just my working theory by the time I gave up and threw the whole lot out.
     
    Last edited: 18 Nov 2014
  19. RiaanP

    RiaanP Moderator

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    on the bridge, where it goes over the rim of the tank. Replace the inner elbow with a T-piece. On the open end on top, add another short piece straight PVC. With female end cap on top. Drill 6mm hole into the end-cap and fit a airline hose into it. You can suck out the air manually with your mouth and then fold is double and tie it down. That would help to give you a much bigger area for bubbles to collect before it breaks the siphon.

    Alternative is to get one of those old style powerheads with the venturi attachment. Add the airline hose onto that so that it will automatically extract air all the time. Issue with this method is that you will have micro bubbles every time a bubble gets sucked out.
     
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  20. Mario ArchTech

    Mario ArchTech

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    I used the second option with a power head and air line on a 1000 liter malawi tank, it ran for two years and the siphon never broke. Add a one way air valve on the bridge of the pipe where it goes over the rim of the tank and then connect the air line to a power head.
     
  21. Fishcrazy

    Fishcrazy Thread Starter

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    I do have a airline hose with one-way valve on the straight inner elbow piece.

    Last night I've closed the cap with the air hole and sucked out the air (or actually water) via the airline hose. This was now when every thing was running. It seems to be running okay.
     
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