First water parameter tests after 2 years.

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Hi there everyone.

So I have finally pinched my eyes close and acquired my first tests for checking some parameters after running my first and only reef setup for almost 2 years now.

The main reason for this is I have been struggling since day one with unbearable amounts of algae and as I have learned more over time I told myself I can not complain about my algae problems constantly if I do not even monitor some basic parameters.

I am posting today since I recorded very recently that the phosphates are 'extremely high' though the rest seems to be all within range apart from the calcium being high.
I have been 'blindly' dosing no3 : po4-x for about a month with no real convincing results in the algae decreasing.

So I hope in getting some good advice from the ladies and men on here on what I am supposed to do from here.

I doubt I'll be able to easily decrease the calcium, but I'm sure I can do something about the phosphates.

Please do consider the fact that I live in the "gat kant" of the world and do not have access to all the goodies you South Africans have.

Herewith the latest test results;

Temperature : 25-26 degrees celcius
Salinity : 1.025 - 1.026
Ammonia : 0
Nitrite : 0
Nitrate : 0
Ph : 8.2
Alkalinity : 9.5 (3.4 Meq/L)
Calcium : 540
Phosphates : Low-Range - > 1ppm
High-Range, between : 0.68 - 1.36, leaning more to the higher side.

Phosphates in my RODI water, between : 0.08 & 0.16.

I use only Red Sea test kits apart from the calcium of which I use Elos.

Thank you in advance for any and all help and advice, I truly appreciate it.
 
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Toolboysa

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Are you running a DI resin filter on your RO unit? If yes start by replacing the resin cause you are just adding PO4 every time up topup
 
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@Toolboysa

Yes, I am running the D.I.-resin and it is not "new".
I guess I'll have to look into replacing the resin then as a start.

Thanks for your reply, I appreciate it.
 
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HI ,

Perhaps post what your current tank looks like and help us understand your filtration system to able to assist further.
Also do you have a cleanup crew.
What lighting etc.
 
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So, youve never done any test in 2 years? what does your tank look like? im very curious as a first timer.
 
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@Vishaal

I'm not home now, I'll post some pics this evening.

I very recently removed the DSB, and I have been running bare-bottom for quite some time.
I did vacuum out some debris and settlement from the bottom in the past, but it's a near-impossible task now with the live rock, etc.

For lighting I have a custom built high-power led kit with the sunrise-sunset controller, etc. A good mix of different whites, blue, violet & green led chips. (9x5, 1Watt led chips.)

W.r.t. cuc, I only have a few hermits, pyramid snail, starfish. (I intend to get more snails as soon as someone locally has some stock.)

For filtration I have the smallest Red Devil skimmer (250L/H) and then six layers of these filtration pads. Two layers removes ammonia, two layers removes phosphates and nitrates and another two layers removes carbon. (Tank capacity of about 220L in total, including sump and sub-tank. Pictures will define this better.)

I currently have no GAC in the tank, nor any other form of filtration.

I have been doing plenty small water changes within the last 3-4 weeks of about 3% bi-weekly, every week. (Adds up to about 20% for the month.)

The only tests I did in the last 2 years was temperature (Obviously) and salinity - That's it. (Up to now...)
 
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That's a lot of fish in that little tank wat size skimmer are you running there and what lights
 
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@weezle

Why would you say it is too much fish - What is a general "rule-of-thumb" for stocking?
There's about 10x small fish inside of which the largest is probably the clowns.

The total water volume is 220L whereas the dp is 150L.
The skimmer is the Red Devil 250,the smallest of the range.

I forgot to post the other tanks... Photos will follow shortly.

The lights I have mentioned in one of my previous posts - Let me know if you'd like to have more information.
 
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The reason i asked about the skimmer is because that is quiet a few fish for that size tank but i guess with a large sump and a decent skimmer it could work out , does the tank get any direct sunlight?
My old 4foot tank got morning sun light on the one side and on that side it grew that bright green algae , but the algae only grew on the glass.
Do you have algae on your rocks as well?
 
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You say you have custom Led lights... is this the correct spectrum led lighting ?

I would also give more space between your rocks for waterflow.
 
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The reason i asked about the skimmer is because that is quiet a few fish for that size tank but i guess with a large sump and a decent skimmer it could work out , does the tank get any direct sunlight?
My old 4foot tank got morning sun light on the one side and on that side it grew that bright green algae , but the algae only grew on the glass.
Do you have algae on your rocks as well?
@weezle

In your opinion, do you think my skimmer is sufficient?

The tank does not get any direct sunlight. The algae is throughout - Glass, rocks,etc.

We're completely looking away from the higher phosphate level and how I might deal with it - Does this mean that I should not focus too much on the number and rather consider some other culprits like the lights?
 
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You say you have custom Led lights... is this the correct spectrum led lighting ?

I would also give more space between your rocks for waterflow.
@Vishaal

Indeed. But unfortunately the seller of the kit will not release the technical information on the led chips, since they "spent a lot of time and money on researching the correct photoperiod and spectrums of the led's they're using".

So I'm stuck only with an answer from them that, "yes it is a near perfect spectrum and potoperiod".
Whether it is or not I guess is still debatable.

I'm currently not really too sure how I'll get more flow between the rocks apart from gluing pieces permanently together, spaced apart - What is your view on this?
 
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I would suggest trying one of the methods of nutrient export , perhaps a scrubber or maybe some calupra growing in your sump, this will bring your phosphate levels down in time also cut back on the amount you are feeding perhaps.
Try feeding fresh or frozen foods for a wile, it is my opinion that flake foods are too easily dissolved into the water column resulting in high nutrient levels which in turn promote algae growth.
Perhaps shortening the photos period by an hour or two could have a desired affect.
Good luck with your algae war
 

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If your nutrients are correct as you posted previously you will struggle with nutrient export. Generally no3 and po4 exporters linked. Redfields ratio. As you have no no3 left, you can not export po4.

This leaves you with options such as po4 removers, gfo, phosphagaurd biocubes or lanthanum chloride.

Several massive water change would also help but may prove costly and promote instability in your systems other parameters.
 
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Hi there.

I am still having massive problems with high very phosphates.

Due to our drought-situation in Namibia, all dams supplying Windhoek is at 30% and lower levels. This means more "gunk", including phosphates, are being delivered in our drinking water and I guess it is fair to say that any R.O.D.I. system can ONLY remove "so much" "gunk" from the water.

Are there any tested and trusted solutions to my problem - I'm willing to buy and import something that will solve this problem, "guaranteed"?

NoPoX did not do much or even anything for me, so I will not use that again.

Please help a 'beginner' solving this problem, please!
I'm very 'gatvol' of all the algae taking over my DT - Red slimy algae, green hairy algae, the 'normal' green algae and what have you.
 

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