Final sump layout

gaboon

gaboon

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Heres the final layout, first chamber and last chamber is as small as possible to maximise space for dsb. As KANGA pointed out the 2nd pane is 5 mm higher than first pane. Please look at dimensions on the sump and let me know if they are acceptable and what other flaws there may be. Thanks
sumpfinal.jpg
 
Yip that will do, heater either in A or B:thumbup:
 
How many l will you return chamber be? Looks a bit small to me. Will you have an auto topup?
 
with a small return chamber like that your water level will drop fast, would be best if u double the size of the 3rd chamber
 
JB you are right however remember that this is a small sump and therefore the systems water volume relatively small, so less evaporation volume wise.

Gaboon for a few rand you can be a "stockamns valve" (Ed's idea not mine:)) and use it as an auto top up, very cheap very effective. Only prob is you R/O drum will have to be higher than the valve
 
Kanga, please explain, whats a stockamns valve? Higher than what valve?
 
DSC00650.jpg

DSC00649.jpg


Gaboon, all it is, is a simple float valve which opens when the water level drop and as your sump fills the black float piece lifts closing a rubber disc onto the inlet stopping the flow of water.

Ask at any agricultural supply store for a Stockmans valve/"veesuipklep" its normally used to keep drinking troughs on farms full.(idea hijacked from ED ;))

I siliconed the glass piece to the valve and the otherside was for the side of the sump


The R/O drum needs to be higher than the stockmans valve because it is gravity fed.

HTH
 
Hey dude what were you doing up at 4am?
 
No Kanga - you don't do THAT at 4:00am - you snuggle up at 4:00am..... and if you can't sleep.... well - use your imagination ;-)

Thanks for the idea of the "Stockman's Valve" - I think that this too can go in the "Newbie's el-cheapo" setup list ;-)

If you don't mind me asking - how much did that set you back?

Sorry gaboon for hi-jacking the thread....

Also Kanga - perhaps you can draw something on SketchUp for gaboon, myself and others that would be interested?

Thanks.

Also - Gaboon - Just ensure that you have gate valves on both the supply of the water from the overflow, AS WELL AS the return lines.

In such a way you can fine tune the water levels in the sump!
 
No Kanga - you don't do THAT at 4:00am - you snuggle up at 4:00am..... and if you can't sleep.... well - use your imagination ;-)
Click to expand...
:lol:

Thanks for the idea of the "Stockman's Valve" - I think that this too can go in the "Newbie's el-cheapo" setup list ;-)
If you don't mind me asking - how much did that set you back?
Click to expand...

R45 plus fitting so about R60 and it works like a bomb.

Also Kanga - perhaps you can draw something on SketchUp for gaboon, myself and others that would be interested?
Click to expand...
Sure will do a little later

Also - Gaboon - Just ensure that you have gate valves on both the supply of the water from the overflow, AS WELL AS the return lines.

In such a way you can fine tune the water levels in the sump!
Click to expand...
Personally I dont think this is necessary , the faster the return pump flows the faster it flows back. JMO
 
Thanks jacquesb, I was wondering about that. Would the gatevalves adjust the pressure from the pump? Doesn't that put strain on the pumps? Would hardware stores sell them? Kanga, a diagram would be great!
 
What can I expect to happen in the event of a power failure, skimmer pump failing, return pump failing? Sorry for all the questions:thumbup:
 
gaboon said:
Thanks jacquesb, I was wondering about that. Would the gatevalves adjust the pressure from the pump? Doesn't that put strain on the pumps? Would hardware stores sell them? Kanga, a diagram would be great!
Click to expand...

Will do a diagram when I get back later. Some hardware stores should. But BKB and Farmarama would be your best bet.

gaboon said:
What can I expect to happen in the event of a power failure, skimmer pump failing, return pump failing? Sorry for all the questions:thumbup:
Click to expand...

OK will explain how a siphon break works as well when I get back.

Ask away its much better than mopping the floor at 4 am in the morning:thumbup::thumbup:

Be back in a while
 
here is a pic of how my siphon break works, in the event that the power goes off the 2 6mm hole that was drilled a few mm above the waterlevel, will let air into the pipe as it starts to siphon back preventing your display tank from draining and your sump from overflowing.

Drill the hole at an angle so the water from the 6 mm holes spray down into the tank

siphonbreak.jpg
 
Gaboon - in answer to your questions:
- usually, when the power fails, your tank's water level will drop (siphon out) up till the level of your over-flow, and your lowest pipe that could have a siphon effect.

The drawing Kanga made shows you for the return pipe - which means that there would be no siphon effect at all, as the pipe will immediately suck air....

The gate valves will indeed put some amount of pressure on the pump - but if the amount of closure is not much, then this amount of pressure would not/should not cause any damage to the pumps at all.

The gate-valves are there for 2 reasons: one - to enable you to "fine-tune" your water-flow. This is not always easy to get the balance right....
Two - in the case of emergency, you can close off the gate valves and ensure that the water stays in the main display tank.....

Kanga - thanks for the drawing man! I too have SketchUp - BUT have not mastered it yet (have not spent the time yet in learning this application).
 
jacquesb said:
Kanga - thanks for the drawing man! I too have SketchUp - BUT have not mastered it yet (have not spent the time yet in learning this application).
Click to expand...

Great little program, but hell if you see what some guys do its awesome, i am in the starting block of learning it:thumbup:
 
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