Euro Bracing?????

sandersc

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Guys please help mr out on this one.

What is eurobracing excactly.
What is it good for.
What tanks do you use them on.
How do you make them.
Where excactly do you put them.
And pictures or drawings please..

I have read about it and now I am really interested, but haven't got the foggiest.
 

Mekaeel

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1.bracing that goes all around the top and bottom of your front and side panes
2.secures the tank,giving it less chance to split apart
3.can be used on many tanks,id say 250l+ tanks depending on depth and width aswell as glass thickness
4.same as point 1,
5.kanga will draw a pic :p
 
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sunburst

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Guys please help mr out on this one.

What is eurobracing excactly.
What is it good for.
What tanks do you use them on.
How do you make them.
Where excactly do you put them.
And pictures or drawings please..

I have read about it and now I am really interested, but haven't got the foggiest.
Euro Bracing is provided by glass strips (2 - 4inches thick) that run along the edge of your tank as opposed to across the tank, and therfore does not interfere with lighting
 

sandersc

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Thanks, but how does it differ from normal bracing? Is it only the fact that it sits right on the edge of the tank and not say 20mm down from the top or are there other differences as well. I think I read somewhere, that it is suppose to be one piece of material , and not say 4 different loose pieces?

Can you clarify this for me please.
 

sandersc

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one quick question.with eurobracing,is it necessary to leave the centre brace,or can it be completly removed?
According to what I've read they say one of the reasons for using euro is that you can leave out the centre braces, but you need to make sure that your tank will be able to handle the extra strain it takes without the centre braces.
 

sandersc

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Ok I am off now, I'll check out the answers tomorrow.

Cheers, and enjoy whatever you're planning for the night.
 

Mekaeel

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According to what I've read they say one of the reasons for using euro is that you can leave out the centre braces, but you need to make sure that your tank will be able to handle the extra strain it takes without the centre braces.
yeah ive seen lotsa tanks with the centre brace although they had eurobracing,just makes me nervous removing the centre brace lol
 

lIghty

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sandersc, looking at a normal tank without any bracing, when full of water the top of the glass (especially the front and rear as they are the longest) can bend outwards due the to water pressure. by placing a piece of glass at the top of the sides panes, at a right angle, it gives it strength. Like a piece of paper, when flat it is flimzy, but fold a third of it to a 90 deg and you'll see it gets rigit.
 

Kanga

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1.bracing that goes all around the top and bottom of your front and side panes
2.secures the tank,giving it less chance to split apart
3.can be used on many tanks,id say 250l+ tanks depending on depth and width aswell as glass thickness
4.same as point 1,
6.kanga will draw a pic :p
Mekaeel, you missed # 5:lol:

Sanders it will look like this excluding the middle brace

BracingTop.jpg
 

Ridwaan

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My 800 X 800 x 650 cube tank has euro bracing with no centre brace.Just to add,the main purpose of euro bracing is to allow better light penetration and to work better in the tank
 

lIghty

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My 800 X 800 x 650 cube tank has euro bracing with no centre brace.Just to add,the main purpose of euro bracing is to allow better light penetration and to work better in the tank
What do you mean, because there is no centre brace obstruction?
 

Kanga

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Because the tank wont have a brace in the middle it wont obstruct the lighting getting to the tank
 

Moolis Moolman

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Kick plates

Hi :wave2:

Euro bracing is called "kick plates"

Their purpose at the bottom is to secure the plates to the bottom with additional additional to ensure that the glass dose not "slide" of the bottom and leak or break. They give the bottom extra support as well.

The top bracing is there to limit the glass from "bowing" over its limits and break.
The middle plate can only be left out if the glass is thick enough AND the kick plates are installed correctly. I WOULD NOT RECOMENDING REMOVING THE MIDDLE PLATE!!! Especially if built by a provisional.

I know your question would then be : WHAT SHOULD THE GLASS THICKNESS BE + WHAT SHOULD THE KICK PLATES LOOK LIKE Glass thickness + kick plates depends on the length of the aquarium AND the hight of the water level!!!

So to answer that individually it would be better to call your provisional aquarium builder or me @ 082-7825623 and get that info BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING!!

Always hooked on MARINES greetings
Moolis
 

DesertReef

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Hi Guys,

I know this thread is old but wondering if any one could give me some advice.

I was given a tank that was previously used for fresh water and was running for aprrox 2,5 years.

The tank size is 960 * 500 * 560 (h) with a water level height of 510.

Heres the thing the tank thickness is only 6mm. I had already sent it in to marine aquarium shop in DBN
to have a overflow box installed as well as an outlet. They made the box height higher than the required 510 water level mark. Its closer to 540 now.

This only became an issue recently as ive learnt that tanks can burst. Ive also come to know that the tank has euro bracing on the top. Not sure if its on the bottom.

My tank has been cycling with only 4-5kg of live rock for the last 12 days.

Now surely the shop who outfitted my tank would have mentioned something?

How do i know if its bowing? Seems like an optical illusion when i stare at it for long enough.

I need a plan of action. Loosing sleep over this
Marine Aquariums South Africa
The tank is on a level 38mm square tubing stand.

IMG_1270.jpg
 

Gareth0508

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I'd definitely add bracing on that. I've just done mine for piece of mind! My tank is slightly smaller and also 6mm glass.
Also depends on who you sent the tank to, I know a certain LFS that did a shocking job on my father in laws sump! Never again will I go there other than to buy fish food!

You could stand on the side of your tank lining up both edges and see if the middle section is curved outwards past the join. Or as Marc says, hold a ruler across the top of the main face and see if theres any bow.
 

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