(Dumb) overflow question

Discussion in 'Beginner Discussions' started by gaboon, 22 Dec 2007.

  1. gaboon

    gaboon

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    Geez, I'm stupid, I was wondering why the overflow pipe was so short under the tank leading into the sump. It occured to me late last night it was upside down:whistling:

    Is that right?

    [​IMG]
     
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  3. Shaun

    Shaun Retired Moderator

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    It depends how u run it and the entire tank. What does the rest of the over flow look like. Some people make the pipe long to keep water in the chamber, as water falling the entire length will make quite a noise.
     
  4. Kanga

    Kanga Retired Moderator MASA Contributor

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    hehe :lol:

    looks fine, are you going to add a durso to that?
     
  5. gaboon

    gaboon Thread Starter

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    Where can I get a Durso from? Someone posted a link that wasn't it.

    Here some pics, first the box overflow chamber itself

    [​IMG]


    Inside the chamber

    [​IMG]


    Under the tank, overflow pipe clearly has to reach the sump, should it be submerged in the first chamber of the sump to stop splashing and noise?
    Any other advise on the length of the overflow pipe inside the overflow and where to get a Durso pipe from in Joburg.


    Lastly, I'm not happy with the positioning of the return pipe back into the tank right by the overflow. Should I extend it to go around the side of the overflow towards the back of the tank?

    Sorry for all the questions
     
  6. gaboon

    gaboon Thread Starter

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    forgot a pic...
    [​IMG]
     
  7. Kanga

    Kanga Retired Moderator MASA Contributor

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    www.dursostandpipes.com


    If need be I will explain how to make one.

    the rest looks ok, I assume thats your return coming through the overflow?
     
  8. gaboon

    gaboon Thread Starter

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    Yes it is, should the overflow pipe go into the sump under the water level?
     
  9. Kanga

    Kanga Retired Moderator MASA Contributor

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    yes it should prevents splashing and salt creep
     
  10. Mekaeel

    Mekaeel Moderator MASA Contributor

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    on moth my tanks its 3/4 way below the water surface
     
  11. gaboon

    gaboon Thread Starter

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  12. sunburst

    sunburst

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    Looks like a nice rig gaboon, no fleas there:thumbup:

    Some suggestions.
    1)Both pipes will need lengthening. a)At the base of your durso, ie as the pipe exits tank base, fit a ball valve and then extend pipe down into the first skimmer chamber. b)Your return pipe will also need lengthening to reach the last chamber of the sump. Another ball valve here and possibly a coupling between the valve and return pump. This will allow for easy removal and pump maintenance. Your return pump is the pack mule in your tank, It works hard and should be cleaned more often than other pumps imo.
    2)The last elbow on your return pipe i would change to a 45 degree imo

    For a list of plumbing supply's in your area check out Rorys thread on "where to get what"

    And lastly, when gluing your pvc pipes, make sure the entire join surface gets covered, wait a few seconds for the glue to start gelling and then make the seal. Allow some time for drying. a good few hours..... Before you fill with salt water, partly fill tank with fresh water to check for faulty seals.
     
  13. Kanga

    Kanga Retired Moderator MASA Contributor

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    Sunburst, why would you put a ball valve under the Durso, I have two and no ballvalve in either and have no hassles at all

    Just wondering:)


    The rest I agree 100% with.
     
  14. gaboon

    gaboon Thread Starter

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    Sorry Kanga, did you see my post before sunburt's?
     
  15. sunburst

    sunburst

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    Versatility...Not critical but at the very least a coupling. I like the versatility of being able to strip and check and unblock/clean if necessary. The valve option simply would allow you strip and not have constant drip drip wetting floor and cabinet. And should you need to pack up and go, you simply pack up and go. Should you need to modify in the future ie put in a T piece to supply water to a new refugium , dsb, calcium reactor etc the pipe can be easily removed.

    In my case 100% of my overflow goes into my skimmer. The pipe leading to the skimmer is fairly long. After a water change bubbbles get trapped in the pipe which causes an airlock or hampers flow. I have a valve just before the skimmer and then the valve below the durso. By sequentially opening one valve at a time it allows all air to escape.
     
  16. sunburst

    sunburst

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    Kanga if i may...You right you don't need them. Do not glue them in at the base. Always nice to pull out for inspection if you suspect blockage. Do you want me to post pics of what the base should look like.
     
  17. Kanga

    Kanga Retired Moderator MASA Contributor

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    I have a normal tank connector to a thread 50 mm connector the my 50mm pipe
     
  18. gaboon

    gaboon Thread Starter

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    Thanks guys, hoping FAB engineering will be open tomorrow or Monday to get the parts. Is the tank connector the piece that goes into the male thread connector then into the bulkhead?

    Sunburst, please post pics if possible.

    Thanks again guys!
     
  19. sunburst

    sunburst

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    Assembled

    [​IMG]


    Disassembled

    [​IMG]


    Threaded end connectors must have thread tape applied to them in an anti clockwise direction.

    [​IMG]
     
  20. gaboon

    gaboon Thread Starter

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    Thanks Sunburst, I bought most of the parts this morning, need to get another set of hands to help me unscrew my current overflow so I can check the bulkhead. Need to get the threaded connectors still. Nearly there!
     
  21. Kanga

    Kanga Retired Moderator MASA Contributor

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    Very nice Sunburst:thumbup:
     
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