(Dumb) overflow question

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Geez, I'm stupid, I was wondering why the overflow pipe was so short under the tank leading into the sump. It occured to me late last night it was upside down:whistling:

Is that right?

420476cbbd6ec811.jpg
 

Kanga

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hehe :lol:

looks fine, are you going to add a durso to that?
 
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Where can I get a Durso from? Someone posted a link that wasn't it.

Here some pics, first the box overflow chamber itself

420476cc7beaa578.jpg



Inside the chamber

420476cc83ca162d.jpg



Under the tank, overflow pipe clearly has to reach the sump, should it be submerged in the first chamber of the sump to stop splashing and noise?
Any other advise on the length of the overflow pipe inside the overflow and where to get a Durso pipe from in Joburg.


Lastly, I'm not happy with the positioning of the return pipe back into the tank right by the overflow. Should I extend it to go around the side of the overflow towards the back of the tank?

Sorry for all the questions
 

Kanga

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www.dursostandpipes.com


If need be I will explain how to make one.

the rest looks ok, I assume thats your return coming through the overflow?
 

Kanga

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yes it should prevents splashing and salt creep
 
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Looks like a nice rig gaboon, no fleas there:thumbup:

Some suggestions.
1)Both pipes will need lengthening. a)At the base of your durso, ie as the pipe exits tank base, fit a ball valve and then extend pipe down into the first skimmer chamber. b)Your return pipe will also need lengthening to reach the last chamber of the sump. Another ball valve here and possibly a coupling between the valve and return pump. This will allow for easy removal and pump maintenance. Your return pump is the pack mule in your tank, It works hard and should be cleaned more often than other pumps imo.
2)The last elbow on your return pipe i would change to a 45 degree imo

For a list of plumbing supply's in your area check out Rorys thread on "where to get what"

And lastly, when gluing your pvc pipes, make sure the entire join surface gets covered, wait a few seconds for the glue to start gelling and then make the seal. Allow some time for drying. a good few hours..... Before you fill with salt water, partly fill tank with fresh water to check for faulty seals.
 

Kanga

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Looks like a nice rig gaboon, no fleas there:thumbup:

Some suggestions.
1)Both pipes will need lengthening. a)At the base of your durso, ie as the pipe exits tank base, fit a ball valve and then extend pipe down into the first skimmer chamber.
2)The last elbow on your return pipe i would change to a 45 degree imo

Sunburst, why would you put a ball valve under the Durso, I have two and no ballvalve in either and have no hassles at all

Just wondering:)


The rest I agree 100% with.
 
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Sunburst, why would you put a ball valve under the Durso, I have two and no ballvalve in either and have no hassles at all

Just wondering:)


The rest I agree 100% with.
Versatility...Not critical but at the very least a coupling. I like the versatility of being able to strip and check and unblock/clean if necessary. The valve option simply would allow you strip and not have constant drip drip wetting floor and cabinet. And should you need to pack up and go, you simply pack up and go. Should you need to modify in the future ie put in a T piece to supply water to a new refugium , dsb, calcium reactor etc the pipe can be easily removed.

In my case 100% of my overflow goes into my skimmer. The pipe leading to the skimmer is fairly long. After a water change bubbbles get trapped in the pipe which causes an airlock or hampers flow. I have a valve just before the skimmer and then the valve below the durso. By sequentially opening one valve at a time it allows all air to escape.
 
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Kanga, I found this link, is this correct? the pipe used here 1¼. That seems like the size of my return pipe. Is there an easier way? I dont understand why I need parts "5, 4, 3, and 2"

http://www.dursostandpipes.com/BuildYourOwn/tabid/54/Default.aspx
Kanga if i may...You right you don't need them. Do not glue them in at the base. Always nice to pull out for inspection if you suspect blockage. Do you want me to post pics of what the base should look like.
 

Kanga

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Kanga if i may..(Of course you may, you most probably know 4 times what I do:)).You right you don't need them. Do not glue them in at the base. Always nice to pull out for inspection if you suspect blockage. Do you want me to post pics of what the base should look like.

I have a normal tank connector to a thread 50 mm connector the my 50mm pipe
 
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Thanks guys, hoping FAB engineering will be open tomorrow or Monday to get the parts. Is the tank connector the piece that goes into the male thread connector then into the bulkhead?

Sunburst, please post pics if possible.

Thanks again guys!
 
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Thanks Sunburst, I bought most of the parts this morning, need to get another set of hands to help me unscrew my current overflow so I can check the bulkhead. Need to get the threaded connectors still. Nearly there!
 

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Very nice Sunburst:thumbup:
 

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