Do we really need Polystyrene?

moz

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Been thinking lately on the design of a new tank and was wondering on if polystyrene was really necessary on a rigid level surface such as a post formed top.
 
i think it is, it softens the pressure on the glass and spreads it out. It also stops the nasty scratches and things. Why dont you want to put it in?

Aesthetic reasons, with my current stand idea, the polystyrene would be visible. Guess back to the drawing board.
 
In theory it's not necessary I suppose but in practice I think it's way safer to go with the polysterene as the slightest imperfection will cause the tank to break!
 
Aesthetic reasons, with my current stand idea, the polystyrene would be visible. Guess back to the drawing board.
just put a little ''perimeter'' of wood or somethin around the base of the tank, that covers the polystyrene and possibly the base of the tank. Or you could make your cupboard door a little higher so they cover it?
 
i think it is, it softens the pressure on the glass and spreads it out. It also stops the nasty scratches and things. Why dont you want to put it in?

Agree with scuba, I miht be new 2 marine but have been breeding FW for 15 + yrs, once tried a tank with chipboard base ......had to replace 2 carpets..mine and the old tannie living in the flat under me..IMHO..the stuff they put under commercially bought tanks is 2 thin and the wheight distribution factor dies after 6 months...if DYI go for a bit thicker...just my 2c
 
SO we are on the topic

Why does my tank crack or burst of the pressure I am running a 523L {main tank} on press wood couted with nothing but vannish !!! It's running for over 6 months now
 
SO we are on the topic

Why does my tank crack or burst of the pressure I am running a 523L {main tank} on press wood couted with nothing but vannish !!! It's running for over 6 months now

MO...poly just reduces the risk...also not failsafe and what ive seen carcks are more frequent due to bad construction, frong materials etc than poly / no poly but i would still err on the side of caution
 
SO we are on the topic

Why does my tank crack or burst of the pressure I am running a 523L {main tank} on press wood couted with nothing but vannish !!! It's running for over 6 months now

Please PLEASE put in some poly, 6 months is not long enough for all the stand's flaws to show. It could still be a year or two but this will cause you to mop the floors sometime and lose precious marine life!
 
friend of mine moved a few weeks ago... put the empty 1.5m tank on the level lawn... SNAP CRACK.... i got a seriously distressed phone call.... brand new tank....
 
I agree that u should use it....hid it with a wooden freeze .....if avail is an issue...try a company called isolite they might have a branch near u ....was abt R35 for a 1.5 x700
 
Are chipboard cabinets bad? Sounds like it from reading this thread? Just noticed mine is made of chipboard...will it last?
 
as lond as it does not get wet should be fine. as if you have an open sump just make sure the woods properly sealed
 
I'm in the process of building a 1300l freshwater aquarium, and have chatted to a lot of people and done a great deal of research. The following is important to note;
  • In general, you do not want the glass to bend more than 0.5mm
  • Wet wood swells, a lot!
  • Tanks are heavy, my tank will weigh roughly 2000kg with glass, rocks and water. That is without the sump. The stand needs to comfortable support the weight without deforming.
  • Most tanks are not supported wholy on the base, they are supported around the edges with thick glass at the base that supports all the weight. But foam is still used to cusion the glass.
  • Use at least 15mm of very supportive foam.
 
agreed dillon

last thing to mention...it is virtually impossible to get a DIY (see ml..spelling has improved!) stand 100 % square & level...unless u work / weld for OCC ! therefore the poly it makes up for mm size mistakes
 
Been thinking lately on the design of a new tank and was wondering on if polystyrene was really necessary on a rigid level surface such as a post formed top.

Well, as with everything marine, it's not that simple - there are two schools of thought on this, and both are actually correct...

Here in South Africa, and most of Europe, as far as I know, we believe in building our tanks with the side panes resting on the bottom pane. In this case, all the weight/pressure is transferred to the bottom pane, which transfers it to the stand. If there is any dirt (sand particles, etc...) between the bottom pane and the stand it can cause a point load which can crack the glass. If the stand warps a bit due to (e.g.) water causing the wood to swell in certain places it can also cause unequal pressure on the bottom pane, which again can cause cracking. In both cases, a thin layer of polystyrene will eliminate point loads and ensure an even load distribution

In the USA the trend is to build the tank with the bottom pane "floating" between the side panes, with the bottom pane a few mm's above the bottom of the side panes. Only the side panes are thus in contact with the stand. Glass is much stronger when standing on end (thus acting like a beam and not a slab), and the chance of actually having a piece of dirt caught below the narrow end of the glass and the stand is also pretty remote. As the bottom pane is raised some distance above the stand, there is also no chance of any dirt actually touching the bottom pane - this thus reduces the risk of cracking the bottom pane significantly, negating the need for a polystyrene sheet.

If you really cannot have a polystyrene sheet under the tank you can always consider building the tank as the Yanks do.

Me? Personally I have a thin layer of polystyrene below my tank...

Hennie
 
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